Ramona said..
I would just use one of the aluminium based silver primers. If you need to do some minor filling on the under water bits mix some garden lime into the hydroseal till its a putty like consistency and smooth in.

Yes the aluminium based paint is a great option these days but i have the red lead so may as well use it. Twoing and frowing a bit though as the toxic nature of red lead has me worried a bit. The lime is a great idea, thanks for reminding me! Ramona, you must have done some time working on wooden hulls to come up with this advise :) Years ago when i was helping out on the Alma Dopel we used Stockholm tar with lime mixed in for the seams, so lime to thicken the hydro seal for a bit of filler and to put the bugs off is a great idea. We had to rout out all the seams of the Alma Dopel because after the first restoration they stopped the seams with linseed oil putty and as the seams where comparatively wide being a large boat, and the torledo worms loved the linseed oil in the putty! Not a good situation. Thanks everyone for your input. It's great to mull over the options and bounce a few ideas around.

wow you've done well today !! keep going Guitz ! your on a roll !!!

Guitz said..

Ramona said..
I would just use one of the aluminium based silver primers. If you need to do some minor filling on the under water bits mix some garden lime into the hydroseal till its a putty like consistency and smooth in.

Yes the aluminium based paint is a great option these days but i have the red lead so may as well use it. Twoing and frowing a bit though as the toxic nature of red lead has me worried a bit. The lime is a great idea, thanks for reminding me! Ramona, you must have done some time working on wooden hulls to come up with this advise :) Years ago when i was helping out on the Alma Dopel we used Stockholm tar with lime mixed in for the seams, so lime to thicken the hydro seal for a bit of filler and to put the bugs off is a great idea. We had to rout out all the seams of the Alma Dopel because after the first restoration they stopped the seams with linseed oil putty and as the seams where comparatively wide being a large boat, and the torledo worms loved the linseed oil in the putty! Not a good situation. Thanks everyone for your input. It's great to mull over the options and bounce a few ideas around.

My old fishing boat is over seventy years old now and still going strong. I owned her for 22 years, we are merely caretakers. Still has all the original oregon planks, some sister ribs in the bow.
On this page down near the bottom, "Vigilante". www.boatregister.net/WW2_ArmyWorkBoats.html

That article is a fascinating read. The Navy had a few of those boats used as dive boats as I recall.

I worked as engineer on a few of the Fairmiles out of Mackay that were converted to tourist boats called Roylen Cruisers. With their petrol engines in wartime trim they were virtual floating bombs. All the fuel and water tanks were riveted copper.

The 100 foot Fairmiles and the 65 foot ex SAR "Crash" boats are what opened up the Whitsundays to tourism post WWII. Met a guy who said he saw 20 Fairmiles in New Guinea burnt to the waterline at the end of the war. That would bring tears to your eyes.

A mate of mine has this boat which is a Flemming "Moreton Bay Cruiser".

Replaced the SS u bolts for the upper and lower stays. One was corroded 50% on one bolt. All the rest were AOK.

Halyards etc were replaced 2yrs ago at this time and all mast and boom fittings were refitted. The standing rigging was replaced last year at this time and now the fastenings.

Should be good for 8yrs to start the process again. What do you think?

OK but why? I'm replacing not creating.

slammin said..
OK but why? I'm replacing not creating.

U bolts sort of implies that they go through the deck, have a backing plate and that is it which seems to be a bit light on for the load.

However if that is the way the boat was designed and built we have to assume they knew what they were doing and replacing with new of the same will be quite adequate. I have not seen your boat so I cannot offer a qualified opinion really.

I believe there is still a Seaway 25 at our local sailing club and I will try to get a look at it when I am there next. Like I say though, if that is the way it was put together and you are replacing with same new I am sure it will be fine.

Finally got a couple of bolts into the engineered plates that take my New / Old / 6 months Old Self Taylor's ! Will Drill and Tap all 10 holes on both sides next week after working and then cramp it all down with FixTech. Then I will remove the old Non S/T winches and possibly marine carpet the top of the cowling. Also threw a couple of loads of washing on and pressed up my water tanks to 1000 litres

Stern locker by the look of it Dr Rog

Yes I did some reading because the originals weren't available. This was an interesting reference.

www.clampsinc.com/guidelines-for-u-bolt-design.html

I ended up with both larger turned and similar rolled.

As for the Seaway its a very popular design of maxi TSer. Doug Peterson. For me the selling points are internal ballast. Designed for wind swell. Very high pointing. Open transom. JOG, under cockpit king size berth, v.big v-berth. Similar vintage contenders are Noelex, Sonata, neither tick my boxes. Ross is the modern equivalent, plumb bow, flat stern, similar under cockpit king size berth but quite a few more $s. We were tempted to save long for a Ross but the boats builder pointed out yoi could be sailing now or waiting.... Do it now. Best advice we were given. As for speed she makes hull speed too easily, making me a lazy tweaker.

Gotta run.

The mast got delivered today! Now being prepped ready for installation....getting closer!
The mast is a one piece design, and at 17mtrs is too long for slinging on top of the boat cradle, so it gets its own cradle and ships separate to the boat. Sucks for the cost, but I've stopped looking at that bit.






The spreaders next, it's worthy of note that the sprit, boom and mast are all cf, yet the spreaders are alloy! And cf is not an option??

The whole mast setup in quite interesting, to me at least . I've been sailing for 30 odd years and yet there is some trepidation. There is some design features that I wonder are actually better or worse, but Structures has a long pedigree in this hull form/rig setup, so I am hopeful it is a good thing.
An example of this in relation to the mast:
- No backstay. No runners, nuttin.
- No vang. Well, the weirdest one you've seen in your life, it fair dinkum looks exactly like a gybe preventer.
- CF mast does not bend. At all.
- Three sail rig.
- German mainsheet setup. Looks weird with just one sheet to the traveller.

Sister ship photo. Like where's wally ,where is the vang! I've gone for the same wheel setup (but different wheels).



Good familiar things:
- Single swept back spreaders! That looks normal at least.
- Traveller driven boat. Yay, this suits me fine. The traveller sits just in front of the wheels and is a "set the sheet for the right twist and play the traveller" setup.
It looks massive, the track measures 3mtrs across, it feel like a catamaran. Jam cleat positioned so the helmsman can adjust when singlehanded.

Hi SandS,
She's a Pogo 12.50, the designer is Finot Conq.
Edit: Its funny, I almost forgot to order speakers! Got too engrossed in the sailing bits ..

This is a good linky
This is the judges testing for a Euro BOTY 2012 performance cruiser category.
From 1:50 onwards is a good bit, the boat to leeward is a Grand Soleil 50 that was competing under the same category.
It's not all about the speed, but this has to make you smile!

Hi Cisco,
I admit it, I have been avidly following the MOB thread with interest :)

you wouldn't want to rely on that lot to haul yourself aloft!