Shaggybaxter said..
Thanks guys, I feel like I'm watching a pot to boil, time is moving soooo slowly.
Cisco, yes you are bang on, the keel folds backward and does not penetrate the hull, but sits outside, the trailing edge almost touching the underside of the hull. So, it kinda ends up looking like an old full length keel The saildrive sits just behind the keel when it is in its up position, so you can motor effectively, but I cant have sails up when the keel is up of course!

What do you mean, you can't have sails up when the keel is up???

It is perfect for a spinnaker run. Keel up so you don't trip over it and forming a long straight shallow blade giving you excellent directional stability. I reckon you could steer her with one finger like that.

I think the excitement has got hold of you and is clouding your mind. Have you not sailed centre boarders before??

Bloody hell Cisco, a 40' centreboarder??
Mind you, the keel folds up and rearward, shifting the cog backwards, hence pulling the nose up....

Hi Guitz ,
What are you using as a filler below waterline ?
As I think the Micro balloons are hollow and can absorb water , maybe im wrong but I don't think the fairer used them on my hull below water.. might pay to check..

Shot from the front.
I continued the bottom color up over the prow, what do you think? Does it look ok, or is it too jarring? I like it, but its a bit different, so I don't know if I spoilt the lines or not?

DAMA said..
Hi Guitz ,
What are you using as a filler below waterline ?
As I think the Micro balloons are hollow and can absorb water , maybe im wrong but I don't think the fairer used them on my hull below water.. might pay to check..

Agreed, Dama, I'm doing the two pack epoxy finish above waterline and keeping the existing finish below, so a good sanding off of the anti foul, a touch up where needed and a re coat of anti foul.
Ice cream! thanks for the tip Southace!

Shaggybaxter said..
Shot from the front.
I continued the bottom color up over the prow, what do you think? Does it look ok, or is it too jarring? I like it, but its a bit different, so I don't know if I spoilt the lines or not?

I think it will look fine, keep in mind you wouldn't see the grey bottom once in the water.

what's the thinking with the small step back on the side of the hull?

Installed Motor and Gearbox Temperature indicator with high temp alarm also installed alarms for low oil pressure and low cooling water flow.

HI Seabird,
Sorry mate, I am unsure what you mean. Do you mean the chine,where the vertical sides of the hull meet the bottom? Or do you mean the actual mobile steps behind the boat?

HI Yara,
they use different strength 20mm foam throughout the layup, so before infusion it looks a bit like someone had run out of one color, whole blotches of colors! I have a list of all the different grades and where they are positioned, but you could roughly say the forrard half of the lower hull, around the rear of the rudder posts, and the rear and sides of the keel box are all high density foam, with the rest medium density. Structures treat this all the foam weights as intellectual property, ie: I'm not supposed to publish any detail which is a shame, it is interesting the thought that goes into it.

Twodogs, she looks beautiful, congratulations ! I'd be licking my lips at the B&G stuff!

Shaggybaxter said..
HI Seabird,
Sorry mate, I am unsure what you mean. Do you mean the chine,where the vertical sides of the hull meet the bottom? Or do you mean the actual mobile steps behind the boat?

The vertical sides.
I thought it might have been a chine but most chines face down to deflect water not up. I guess it's there for structural reasons at the point where the two halves meet.

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seabird said..

Shaggybaxter said..
HI Seabird,
Sorry mate, I am unsure what you mean. Do you mean the chine,where the vertical sides of the hull meet the bottom? Or do you mean the actual mobile steps behind the boat?

The vertical sides.
I thought it might have been a chine but most chines face down to deflect water not up. I guess it's there for structural reasons at the point where the two halves meet.

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HI Seabird,
If this what you mean? Finot Conq explained there are few reasonings for the chine, the first is to create a separation point for the water to separate from the hull cleanly and cut down the drag (a rounder hull tends to "grip" the water), the second is when the boat is heeled working to windward, they wanted to minimize the wetted surface area and create the best shape (interestingly it's asymmetrical) that keeps the boat hunting to windward, and third, to increase the RM by increasing the beam , ie: generate more horsepower. A nice rounded edge would either make the boat wider or decrease the wetted surface area available, and being an Open 40 design, they are optimised for planing. I should be able to start planing in 10knots true.






As we all know, wide beamy hull shapes are not the best for pointing to windward, but when you actually see the tank test results,it is surprising as to the wetted surface area.



Pointing really high to windward in big seas will be my worst mode,as the waves will form around the hull as I cut through them, increase drag as it grips the hull. So, to keep up with the canoe style hull shapes to windward in lumpy seas, I have to bear off a few degrees and use horsepower to achieve the same VMG.

Great info Shags. As I've said before, the physics of sailing is very interesting. I once talked to jockey Johnny Letts
Who told me that for most of the race you hold the horse back, but when you let it go it's like hanging to something
that's never going to stop accelerating. I reckon your boat is going to be exactly the same. All the very best to you.

Thanks for the lesson Shaggy! Very Interesting stuff.

samsturdy said..


I've used this product with vinylester, just kept adding the balls and mixing until I got
the right consistancy (ice cream as Southace says). Quite forgiving and easy to use.
Sands to an excellent finish. Good job Guitz.

Guitz said..

DAMA said..
Hi Guitz ,
What are you using as a filler below waterline ?
As I think the Micro balloons are hollow and can absorb water , maybe im wrong but I don't think the fairer used them on my hull below water.. might pay to check..

Agreed, Dama, I'm doing the two pack epoxy finish above waterline and keeping the existing finish below, so a good sanding off of the anti foul, a touch up where needed and a re coat of anti foul.
Ice cream! thanks for the tip Southace!

Guitz, I don't know if you are already doing this but using a guide coat when you are preparing to paint the topsides is by far the best way to get a great finnish as well as it cuts out a lot of unnecessary sanding. I used the 3M system when I painted my topsides and couldn't imagine preparing for a gloss finnish without it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?ul_noapp=true&_fromfsb=0&_nkw=3m+guide+coat&_trksid=m270.l1313
you can get it from any auto paint and panel shop.

Please tell me that is a brand new one Andy, and you didn't clean it up to look that good!
We used to use one that looked identical to this to start a drag bike. It had two protruding arms that locked into the frame, so the torque didnt try and snap your amrs off. I know because I missed a few times!

cisco said..

Get some paint on it andy. It won't stay looking like that for long.

Also that oil line with banjo connection going into the block just below it needs attention before it rusts through.

And a little bit of lubrication on the ring gear wont hurt either.