I'm a hard working pilgrim now Legion, no more weekday play for me and I'm saving up my holidays for Exy in October. Going redneck in Dwellingup next weekend so it'll be a couple of weeks for me.
I thought I'd get good karma. I lent a leggy to a stranger.
But on one, I was overconfident and went for the casual late takeoff. Didn't time it and was so late, I went over the falls standing up on a 4'er. Landed the acid drop standing but was never going to stick it. Got driven hard into the sand, and for anyone that knows where I sit at my local that's pretty impressive.
It was one of those rare days, for a few days each year, where the outgoing tide and the natural wedge can make for very steep late drops.
It rang my bell enough that I chickened out on two even bigger sets shortly after. Took me a while to get it together.
All in all a good session though. Lots of sand movement. No locals, not sure why. Saw a couple watching.
Surf's up! Nice and clean this morning with a solid swell and a light offshore and there are even a few banks around. Five out at smots before sunrise, twenty out just after and the beaches are filling up as well but not too bad. Hopefully the offshore will hang around a while and you all score.
bakesy said... is that a triple drop in or do these guys know each other?
I was trying to find another pic. The guy near the foam paddling can see all this and will still claim it before it walls up. The don't know sh1t much to say each other. They are bloody disco dancers,the only thing that moves are there arms as the stay firmly planted in one spot wasting waves,or until one them get put off balance by the breeze or another dickhead who is paddling for the shoulder.freaking zoo. Rant over
yesterday 7am was the heaviest clean waves i have surfed at scabs ,took me 5 mins to get out well worth the floggings thought , i was out the back only to see a bomb break another 30mts out 8/10 glad those graphs were hard to find only 6 guys out
well worth the floggings thought ,
