LSL = long service leave got 70+ up ma sleeve........can't believe I've been in the teaching game for 17+ years and on my second set of freebie paid days off!!!!
Weeks in bali day trips etc gov service gotta love it

Still plenty around this morning. I went again to one of the metro back beaches and surfed with one other bloke nearby.

Where's the footage suba from all your filming this week

Point taken...
I've been stuck at work all week, haven't even looked at some water so get a bit anxious listening to all the regulars getting some action.

^^^^ Now that's what I call a bloody good week off work suba. You lucky, lucky,.......

Looked at my local and thought i need to take my own advise. Travelled a little south to a Beach with a point that i have avoided due to the weed and it was all time. For me anyway Head to should high peelers..Only three guys sitting a little to deep for me and myself and one other guy just out slightly..Sadly only out for about an hour but managed 5 or 6 amazing rides. I really wished i'd off had a Quad set up i think it would have given me the extra speed to even make a few more
My feet are still complaining about the cold though
Hope everyone else is getting some. I feel re born.

jbshack said..

Travelled a little south... Head to should high peelers..Only three guys sitting a little to deep for me and myself and one other guy

Not sure what time you were there, but by 8:15am it was pretty busy, and looked half the size of the main break and the next one south (where I went). Weed was clumpy on the inside... got caught across my leggie as I finished one wave and I went straight over the nose as the 'weed brake' gripped!

^^^
PM sent

If anyone saw a guy in boardies absolutely eat 5hit on a bomb ay trigg around midday that was me hahah. Still limping.

Alternatively, I did see one guy get an epic stand up tube ride on a right hand drainer.
The lineup went off. Wave of the week for sure.

Edit: as sparki said. Plenty of great rides to be had if you wete willing to go hard on some very sketchy take offs. The wipeouts were a lot heavier than they appeared but the rewards were powerful throaty rides....for Perth.

Looks like you got out as I was getting in (redbull girls rocked up).

The kooks not going for it have been the bane of my surfing week. I have no issue with people not wanting to charge heavier waves if it's out of their comfort zone, but SOOO many kooks were positioning themselves and then going for them and pulling out at the last moment (because they were clearly intimidated) on totally makable waves...and in doing so, they're stopping other more experienced surfers from getting the wave.
I don't want guys dropping into waves if they are too scared too. That's fine, we've all been there. It just seems like a lot of them were putting on the "I'm a hard charger" show and then bailing at the last minute as though it was a close out and not a perfectly makable wave. Once you figure out who those people are you just call yourself into the wave regardless.


And yeah, like you sparki, I smashed myself on the bottom so many times. My last wave, which was really quite big but coming in too straight. I paddled, grabbed rail, felt like I was air dropping (but probably not) and had so much speed when I was forced to straighten out. Still wasn't enough. The explosion of white water smashed me so ****ing hard and my fins went straight into the back of my legs as I hit the sand. I think I'm out of action for a couple of days hahahaha

Oh and the sand in the hair? I did a number 4 on my hair two weeks ago so it's real short. Still constantly have sand falling out, despite trying to wash it out. That was a VERY sandy shorebreak at Trigg this week.

It's been a good week in Perth.

subasurf said..

Looks like you got out as I was getting in (redbull girls rocked up).

SOOO many kooks were positioning themselves and then going for them and pulling out at the last moment (because they were clearly intimidated) on totally makable waves...and in doing so, they're stopping other more experienced surfers from getting the wave.
I don't want guys dropping into waves if they are too scared too. That's fine, we've all been there. It just seems like a lot of them were putting on the "I'm a hard charger" show and then bailing at the last minute as though it was a close out and not a perfectly makable wave. Once you figure out who those people are you just call yourself into the wave regardless.


And yeah, like you sparki, I smashed myself on the bottom so many times. My last wave, which was really quite big but coming in too straight. I paddled, grabbed rail, felt like I was air dropping (but probably not) and had so much speed when I was forced to straighten out. Still wasn't enough. The explosion of white water smashed me so ****ing hard and my fins went straight into the back of my legs as I hit the sand. I think I'm out of action for a couple of days hahahaha

Oh and the sand in the hair? I did a number 4 on my hair two weeks ago so it's real short. Still constantly have sand falling out, despite trying to wash it out. That was a VERY sandy shorebreak at Trigg this week.

It's been a good week in Perth.

So you were getting just after midday? I wonder where the pics the girls took of those of us with red bull i hand will put the pics!

Yeah, there was a bit of that committed but was-never-going-to-take-off-in-the-first-place down my way. I found it worked for me to drop into a bomb right in front of those kind of guys (granted I had right of way). They'd usually get the idea of where I was at quickly after that and wouldn't bother trying for the same wave when another shapely bomb came through. If there's one thing I hate, it's multiple people hassling for what could be heavy wave.

Even though this Perth, the waves still have a way of putting you in your place, huh? haha It's pretty ridiculous. A solid 3 foot closeout packs a fair punch! But how the f1k does your surfboard turn around under you give you a piece of it's mind/fin??

haha, sounds like you had as much fun as me.

Went for a walk at Point Peron, first time visit. Looked interesting further out, one kayak and a lone SUP taking the pick of some good looking surf.

sparki said..
But how the f1k does your surfboard turn around under you give you a piece of it's mind/fin??

haha, sounds like you had as much fun as me.

No idea mate. Woke up this morning with one hell of a bruise down my leg though. I think I'll have to perve my sorrows away at Trigg for the day.

Went the mid morning session. Arrive to it frothing. No really frothy lines of white water. I threw on my cut of jeans and headed out on my trusty foamy. Managed to position myself right where the peaks were breaking, in the way of all the kooks out the back. Got some awesome waste high foam, prone all the way to the beach. Caught this one foam wall that was chest high and tried to stand up. Got a fin up the bum for my trouble. I hope someone saw that. Put the foamy back on the Commodore nose first fins down. Cruised home along bogan drive. Stopped for some KFC. Got Home to find my pregnant teenage girl friend having a smoke looking her ugliest. What to do next. I've got a week off. Arh what the hell, I'll go to Bali and drink Bingtang or read the repair manual for the commodore.

Deano said..

Went the mid morning session. Arrive to it frothing. No really frothy lines of white water. I threw on my cut of jeans and headed out on my trusty foamy. Managed to position myself right where the peaks were breaking, in the way of all the kooks out the back. Got some awesome waste high foam, prone all the way to the beach. Caught this one foam wall that was chest high and tried to stand up. Got a fin up the bum for my trouble. I hope someone saw that. Put the foamy back on the Commodore nose first fins down. Cruised home along bogan drive. Stopped for some KFC. Got Home to find my pregnant teenage girl friend having a smoke looking her ugliest. What to do next. I've got a week off. Arh what the hell, I'll go to Bali and drink Bingtang or read the repair manual for the commodore.

I hope manual is the Pictorial version

Raced back down again this morning. It was as expected smaller but still looked great. I see your point GPA the point did have a smaller wave then down the beach. I hadn't noticed that before as i like the shape more then size..

Anyway froze me arse of but got to surf with Surf royalty (WA boy whose daughter is a Pro on tour) and we had a great chat, shared waves and just a mellow start to the day. He surfed like the pro, he has in his blood lines, i surfed like a drowned rat again It was like GPA said with a bit too much North wind, choppy a little, and with rip's popping up it kept moving me out of position. The wave was a little quick and you often found yourself just half a foot behind the face trying to get around the section..

Anyway he told me of stories and places he'd surfed, people meet and sured with whilst travelling solid for a year whilst travelling on the women's tour..

Genuine all round top bloke