So so wasn't enough seconds on the swell and it was doubling up and a bit all over the shop. Got a couple of really really good ones but they were few and far between. Certainly nowhere near as consistent as last time you were there.

scored epic beachie early ,good crowd smoking ,barrels graphs were offline ,stoked I did the drive down the local 9/10

Spent a few hours at Trigg shooting till sunset. Some decent waves scattered all along the beach. The big ones were coming in way too straight though.

I went to Pt Awesome Winter 2013 Edition. I felt like the crowd experience just to remind me why I avoid it. And if it was crowds I wanted, it was crowds I got. suba will have some shots no doubt. Must've been 40 at one stage. Dropped in on not only by kooks but also once by a local, but he held his head high and owned it with not a word of an apology. And as a bonus I got a close up view of an epic head dip and his exuberant style. I recognise him, seen him a few times before but only at Pt Awesome. One French kook almost decapitated me, and me him. No apology. I told him to watch out in future. He paddled away.

Crowds.

Yeah, I was sitting near those guys. Didn't see you shooting on the beach though. Those were late shots, when I got no waves. I was there for three hours. Got more earlier, the number of people was the same but I somehow meshed better despite there being more Pt Cool Kids crew. Do you drive a white Surf with a rough idle? You started it before climbing in? If so I walked past you right then. I was trialling a very distinctive item today for the first time. Kind of sucks and I'll reserve it for the most brutal days.

nice shots Suba, got a few myself but the iso gauge on my Breville was playing up so I'm not putting them up

Quicky this morning at Mulla. A bit too much South in the wind and it was a little messy. Only small but managed a few nice rides so happy enough. Water and air temp was a bit nicer than usual

jbshack said..
Water and air temp was a bit nicer than usual

You know the water temp barely changes day to day, unusual circumstances excepting, jb? Surely, with the boating/fishing background ...

subasurf said..
Scored a couple of real 5hitty waves at Mettams today and got a fin chop to the foot for my troubles.

Totally not worth it.

Fark me, no pics, not required

Legion said..

jbshack said..
Water and air temp was a bit nicer than usual

You know the water temp barely changes day to day, unusual circumstances excepting, jb? Surely, with the boating/fishing background ...

Air temp changes, and the sand temp changes, so i guess what i mean to say is it wasn't that unpleasant walking to and from the water today

Coastal water will definitely fluctuate, especially with upwelling driven by the LC and also the wind. Still, as someone who surfs more often in boardies than in a wettie, I notice very little difference in how cold the water feels.

I sure do.

I'm probably the happiest man here

Didn't get wet. Spent an hour at trigg with the camera but it was crap. At Cott now watching longboarders bumble about like a pack of tards.

But if I had gotten in I probably would have been in boardies ;-) yes I would be cold but the sun on my back would be worth it haha

EDIT:
Anyway, groms were having a bit of fun today:

Some nice waves on the beaches early this morning, light NE with a few nice hollow peaks coming through. Smaller than yesterday but still worth the effort with nearly no one out.