Zuke said..
^^^^ The guy in the first pic is doing it wrong.
Im guessing thats how id do it

Nice little clean surf this morning at a beach near me. I rolled up right on first light but with clouds and not a sole out it took me about 15 minutes to get ready, just as someone else showed up

Had a ball but it was super difficult picking the waves rolling in in that light as it was glassed off and the ski and sea just rolled into one..
Eventually the sun came out and blinded me and work was calling so called it a day. Had a few fun waves after being out for a few weeks. Hopefully holds till tomorrow morning

On a positive note the beach sand was absolutely pleasant to walk on