Zuke forgot the heads up today. At 3pm it was sheet glass A-frames. Weak but perfect. Unfortunately by 3:40pm the forecast wind finally arrived and by 4:30pm it was a total mess.
Swell is up this morning with lumpy/glassy conditions early on but still pretty straight on the beaches with the odd shoulder here and there for those who are patient.
Looks like you might score again this arvo Legion.
That may very well be the case. But this morning for me so was the tide and it was too full with too much water moving around so went back to bed When the tide goes out should be fantastic, sadly now I'm stuck at work though
Did the drive by metro reef area yesterday, saw a wave that rarely works pumping with no one out, 50m down the road a well known break was packed and it was just closing out????
If I had my board with me would have paddled out for sure! Really solid punchy left handers after a steep take off ending in a big closeout section, yeow!
So so at a northern beachie - looked very promising at 9:00am, but then the rips started and the peaks moved constantly... reasonable size and shape just moving around too much to get a bag full. Crowd vanished around 10:30am when the NW started to puff... 5/10.
Yep got wet this morning before work. Loads of fun but only a low wave count due to a lack of commitment and three weeks out with back issues. Was nice to clear the sinuses..
Problem is the neck is not feeling very special since
A guy on a Goat Boat came out and caught a few great waves..Myself and A few were hooting for him, a few more were not happy and suggested he should take his craft somewhere else. They got more upset when i offered to get my 666
Know of at least a couple of them who are very much a minor problem compared to sups, in fact downright nice guys. One I surfed with a few times and am still in touch with, another I see regularly at my summer spot who is also super nice. Dark guy (Indian heritage?) with a beard.
I was at backwash and bullhorns. Time for a break from surfing too much but the forecast was wrong so I had to go out. High crowd factor but somehow I snagged a few OK ones.
Secret spots near renovating hotel was good leading up to high tide but went crappy with rips n current n backwash n shiz n stuff...apart from that had good couple hours.....love the early morn wrong wind forecasts
surfed south trigg on friday and saw some of the biggest bombs i've ever seen metro. 90% shut down but occassionally one had a shoulder. crowd was a non-factor. i couldn't believe it!!!
Be nice if there were some banks. I struggled today and got smashed several times. Sore back now. It was very hard to find a non-closeout. I'd sacrifice a few days in the water if we could have a big storm to stir things up.