paddled out in the dark metro perth scored one v long fun one and some nice medium size drainers. tonight after work convinced the missus to come down to the beach with me (strategic) and scored som more fun ones. absolutely frothing on the surf today!!! love that feeling when you score a couple of keepers yeeeeeeeew
Great photos too...Matty...send em into tracks .....readers shot ...you might win a new "duranbah" stick.....they are wicked photos great view great light great angle and jeeeezoos it's Perth metro?? Winner fa sure right thar ( with respect to any Zeppo surf commentator )
If you don't I will and I will drop in on you with my( your) new board
The drop in swell helped where I was... still overhead with 9/10 closing out, but when the peaky ones came through in the sets they were good and the rides were long. Shame the weed is in...
No really it was poop, it was too big for the bank that the tide was spot on for and too deep on all the other banks. 340k's for two decent waves and a handful of mud.
I made a bad call this morning. One good wave, one average wave and lots of closeouts. I also got well and truly spanked on a couple and was very lucky not to injure myself. Paid the price for being cocky about a week of good waves. Stupid location.
So I was careful to show extra humility for an afternoon session and it paid off. Great session and fantastic end to a stretch of at least 8 days, maybe more.
I made a bad call this morning. One good wave, one average wave and lots of closeouts. I also got well and truly spanked on a couple and was very lucky not to injure myself. Paid the price for being cocky about a week of good waves. Stupid location.
So I was careful to show extra humility for an afternoon session and it paid off. Great session and fantastic end to a stretch of at least 8 days, maybe more.
Ok, here's some pics from this morning, bearing in mind that it was pretty much crap. Almost impossible to paddle into, too fast or too fat and sometimes both on the one wave. Amazing how the camera lies
This is about head and a half , looks sweet but you just couldn't get into the section leading up to this and if you shoulder hopped it was fat.
This is the bombie that you can see in the top left of the previous pic. It's big and once again not really surfable. A looooong way out, breaks all over the shop and long lulls in a place where you do NOT want to be bobbing around. Found several big seals dead on the beach with chunks out of them in this vicinity last year. And they're the ones that managed to get away to die.
more bombie
and again
This is the right that was breaking towards the left in the top pic, once again it looks the goods but was much the same.
This is another bank and those of you that know it will appreciate how big this is and more importantly how much ground it is covering. At a guess I'd reckon this wave was around 100-130m long and that's 8 frames at 2 frames per second. Well quick. If the first section was a bit more throaty and not a high tight tube, then maybe but basically unsurfable again.
And this is where we ended up back at the first left, looks the business but in reality was just a bit meh.
Well I took the dog for a run down at the metro dog beach this morning and was surprised at the swell still hanging around (should've gone driving where smicko went yesterday??)
Pretty straight and dumpy though... Got some good tunnel vision during the body surf after my run.
Here is another picture that tells another story, rocked up for a dawn patrol on my own, thought I was in for a real treat. Reality. spent 2 hours paddling against a current did not catch a wave, A mate paddled out an hour later and got one of the best waves he as ever had there, but never got another wave. Looked just as good if not better when we got out.
Well I took the dog for a run down at the metro dog beach this morning and was surprised at the swell still hanging around (should've gone driving where smicko went yesterday??)
Pretty straight and dumpy though... Got some good tunnel vision during the body surf after my run.
Yeah, I thought my week was up, but noticed a bit around too so couldn't resist a lazy few hours. And it was fully worth it. On the next bank up were a crew of supergrommets attempting air reverses. One or two made it, one or two big straight punts. But 100m down the beach and there were no hassles and a great bank. Didn't want to be shown up by the supergrommets so attempted my own air session and it paid dividends, leaving the water by at least 2" on at least half a dozen occasions. A couple of near misses and one injury - that's what you get for playing the air game. I'm shot today and glad to have a few days off to recover.
Finally got in this morning. a few big ones but not a lot of face so mostly big speed runs and close outs. A bit too much ikea, that and a few good beatings, one landing flat on back after a huge ariel dismount and i now laid up on my back. Muscles spasm trapping nerve. Ouch
Huge disappointment this afternoon given the forecast. All the banks have disappeared at my local and despite the swell graphs it was basically shoredump 1'ers. Need another storm desperately, a proper one. Sand's all washed in to the shoreline.
