Haha i agree with this, got out for a morning and arvo surf today, feel like i've been put through the blender. One of the best metro days i can remember for mine.
Aaaaarrrrgh ,, only 5 million out today..... Gotto go somewhere else to get some practice I think,,, hanging around inside copping a few on the head at 'the local', and scrambling for some little reef runners aint doing anythng for my game.. Maybe Wadi Adventure coming up soon.. may not be the best wave, but at least I should get some.. Three days there be like 6 weeks here..
That's your local? Not looking too bad except for the idiots in the way. Looks like bakesy's local, or a place where a car was burnt in the carpark two years ago except way too small for today. Can't say I can pick it.
I had no hassles with crowds today.
On the topic of grumpy old guy (suba will love this), right after I paddled out there was this one guy who was inside me on a nice looking wave so I didn't paddle for it - it was his. It turned out he couldn't really paddle and got hung up in the lip then slowly over the falls and the wave went unridden. OK. But then he paddled out and proceeded to inform his mate with a straight face how awesome his board is and how good it goes and his mate should really try it. They were loud talkers, way too old to be frothing groms but doing their best impersonation.
nah not my local Legion, too much west in the swell and too much sand. I've had to look elsewhere or surf sketchy bombies by myself, had a large school of salmon join me as the sun was setting, still better than some "loud talkers"!!!
That's your local? Not looking too bad except for the idiots in the way. Looks like bakesy's local, or a place where a car was burnt in the carpark two years ago except way too small for today. Can't say I can pick it.
Local ,, in inverted commas.. real locals would shoot me,, burnt car?? maybe before my time.. or was that a little further up..
That was my second guess, but given today's swell (3', the odd 4'er at metro beaches), I would've expected that spot to be breaking twice as far out and lines to the horizon and occasionally closing out from the bombie to the right. It just looks a bit small. It was bigger last time I went and the swell was smaller. Unless quirkus took a picture during a lull. Although in hindsight it was before the storms, so the sand movement might have changed things a fair bit (e.g. the reef on the beach was mostly covered).
Man - you and me both, I've had this effing cold for three weeks now and cannot shake it - but I am very seriously considering taking tomorrow morning off... just going to hit the flu tabs and maybe a redbull on the way down... I reckon I could manage about an hour before I fade out...
stuck at work, tomorrow should be good tho 
