GPA said...
Man - where are the Autumn banks already?! Trigg is as straight as a ruler...

Nearly saw a record - 8 people surfing one wave at Mettams... 5 going left and the three inside went straight. No thanks...

Looked at a couple of fickle breaks about 20min north but they were not working...

Surfed Lano today and it was fun enough. Lost a contact lense though and had to come in early so was hoping for another surf this arvo. ANy suggestions GPA Pm is fine..

GPA said...
Man - where are the Autumn banks already?! Trigg is as straight as a ruler...

It has been freakishly still the past 3 days......today in particular.

I went for a long ride today to scope out the beach in front of a reserve. My ride was prompted by a conversation I had recently with someone who used to live in the area and surfed uncrowded waves there all the time. He reckons that many people cannot be bothered walking for 10 minutes along a track to get to the beach. There is no residential development and the dunes are still pretty healthy......got me thinking that it may be worth a look when the adjacent extremely well known break has stupidly crowded banks.

I went driving and ended up at Trigg point with a coffee and spent about an hour watching. Every super star was out practising. Better action on the path. Came home and took dogs for a walk. Spoke with a local who said my local went all time epic as the wind dropped and i missed it[}:)]

Swell up but wind south going sw already....typical really eh

some autumn joy, in the land of milk and honey
random dude, not making it

Wasn't expecting much but checked out my local. Nothing so took a gamble and a short drive North at a spot i've wanted to surf for a while. Found only 4 out but the car park full.
I've heard its a bit unfriendly but the first guy i spoke to told me were to paddle out, got straight and biggest set of the day rolled in and as i was paddling from inside the first bloke out the back turned and called me into the biggest and best wave of the set.

It was s little fat but non the less a great ride to be had, but a bloody big paddle back each time. Only managed a hand full of waves but what a day..As i was driving of the car park was chockers, this other bloke waves and says "Seeya mate" Possibly the friendliest place i think i've ever surfed in my life

Got a few fun ones at a secret beachie today, crowd wasn't too bad and for the most part kook free and pretty friendly.

A couple of groms paddled out at the shift change, kept cherry picking and then calling blokes off 'their' waves.

Was funny to see an old head in the lineup have a quick word and tell them to behave.

Drove North with fingers crossed... greeted by head high avg with bigger sets - shifty, but some nice big peaks and good walls to be had - but you had to wait.

Weed was annoying though and the paddle out harder than my out of form arms would have liked. Southerly started messing it up around 9:30am... then the rips started.

Had a cheeky dolphin snake me... had to smile though.

scored some sic little shoulder high lefts with the ocasional head high bomb not much power but perfect shape good solo session before work 7/10 before a huge seal took the fun out if it .

Bloody big seal were i was with the kids aswell..[}:)]

Whats with all the 'big seals'
Is that code

jbshack said...

quirkus said...
Whats with all the 'big seals'
Is that code

Nope just bloody big sealsstinky breathed, pushy annoying creatures with bloody big K9 teeth that have a tendency to either be too playful, or trying to evade something else bigger and even more annoying than the seal itself

yeah, got it. .hoping I hadn't missed something..

Actually sounding like I'm glad you didn't call[8D

Not bad at the local beach this morning. Had size, few good rips. Low crowd too.

Should see an improvement in the banks from now, particularly with this front on the way next week.

So they'd surfed with you before then?