www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/switching-back-to-hank-on-for-the-headsail-117504-7.html

www.longpassages.org/Documents/Mariner%20Installation%20Brochure.pdf

www.morganscloud.com/2012/03/08/hank-on-sails/

Before you start reading walk to the fridge a get a Beer

McNaughtical said..

HG02 said..

McNaughtical said..
First porthole out ..worst leaking one...just created myself 10 more jobs...carpentry skills learning curve ahead. ..what a mussion!

buy your self some bote cote epoxy Mc Nautical its the easiest one to measure out make it a little simpler
Remember one job is many smaller jobs don't panic or worry about it. just slowly go through the process and enjoy the learning curve
It will make you one with your boat
And there's plenty of good people in here that can advise you

Well I'm going to need plenty of advise that's for sure!! Thanks for the encouragement Hugh Grant. I can feel the "One with my boat" feeling growing

Good on you Mcnaughty

cisco said..

frant said..


Agree with you on this one Cisco. In spite of what everybody says it is not possible to roller furler reef a headsail for upwind work on any size boat. You can roller furl a headsail for close reaching/ downwind and in actual fact with overlapping headsails approx 125% a few turns on a close reaching leg will make the sail more like a jib top.
For a 30 footer would definitely go with hanked on sails.
I am in process of setting my F44.7 up with soft hank headsails, staysail and JibTop on structural furler which I am machining up to suit.
Will start a separate thread as I am still working on Solent or slutter rig or some other configuration of inner forestay and running back stay combination.
What I do have at least is the factory fitted inner forestay strongpoint on the foredeck about to be reinforced with an internal stay to the bulkhead in the forward head.

Thanks frant. Would you define "soft hank headsails" and "jib top" for me please??

Jeez Frant i know a smaller hanked on jib is going to perform better than a half furled genoa but saying its not possible to sail upwind with a half or quarter furled genoa is a bit of a stretch. My genoa has foam inserts in the luff and actually sails upwind quite well.

andy59 said..

Jeez Frant i know a smaller hanked on jib is going to perform better than a half furled genoa but saying its not possible to sail upwind with a half or quarter furled genoa is a bit of a stretch. My genoa has foam inserts in the luff and actually sails upwind quite well.

That is what my point is Andy. I think it is not worth it having foam pads put into my furling head sail. I would be better off getting a new sail built which is an unnecessary expence for me at the moment.

As it is set up now I can only use the sail that is on the furler. If I go to hanked on I have another three sails I can use. One larger and two smaller with the two smaller being the most important.

cisco said..

andy59 said..

Jeez Frant i know a smaller hanked on jib is going to perform better than a half furled genoa but saying its not possible to sail upwind with a half or quarter furled genoa is a bit of a stretch. My genoa has foam inserts in the luff and actually sails upwind quite well.

That is what my point is Andy. I think it is not worth it having foam pads put into my furling head sail. I would be better off getting a new sail built which is an unnecessary expence for me at the moment.

As it is set up now I can only use the sail that is on the furler. If I go to hanked on I have another three sails I can use. One larger and two smaller with the two smaller being the most important.

You're dead right Cisco, I think you and I might be of a similar generation that understand that foam pads can't change the underlying shape of the structure they are meant to support. Foam luff inserts are a marketing gimmick and as the sail is rolled up the draught moves aft and increases. As a consequence the drag goes up exponentially cf the reduction in sail area and the boat actually heels over more, goes slower and points lower than if the headsail was left fully unfurled and the boat feathered.
Can you actually have luff tapes fitted to your hank on sails and hoist them on your furler head foil. I have a Harken MkII furler and can remove the furling drum and use the foil as a twin groove head foil. If I hoist the staysail on the furler with drum fitted I can furl the sail or fly it fully. That is a very easy option for single handing.
I will post pics of the soft hanks which you could have fitted simultaneously with a luff tape rope and open up your existing sails wardrobe.

How does that happen? They were all oriented the same way!

She looks good under sail Japie.
What type of rope do you use for your running rigging?. I need to replace my Lazy-Jacks, & was thinking of silver rope, which is what they are now. Is there anything better nowadays with UV resistance, prefer 3 strand for ease of splicing.
cheers

BlueMoon said..
She looks good under sail Japie.
What type of rope do you use for your running rigging?. I need to replace my Lazy-Jacks, & was thinking of silver rope, which is what they are now. Is there anything better nowadays with UV resistance, prefer 3 strand for ease of splicing.
cheers

Wow, a fellow Junkie!

I replaced the lot with good quality braid because I was flush when I bought it and was fresh on the experience of havin a halyard break. I guess with the lazy jacks it's not critical as they seldom take stress. Bear in mind I am far from experienced!

That foresail you have up is neat. I don't think I could get away with one because my sail extends forward of the mast.

au.yachtworld.com/core/listing/cache/searchResults.jsp?man=Tartan+37+C+B

I would love to take mine back to this in side. The window I have out is the one in the picture here behind the heater and above the cupboard in the corner.

McNaughtical said..
au.yachtworld.com/core/listing/cache/searchResults.jsp?man=Tartan+37+C+B

I would love to take mine back to this in side. The window I have out is the one in the picture here behind the heater and above the cupboard in the corner.

I then coated the marine ply with thinned epoxy a couple of times

This is what I did Mc Nautical and epoxy glued the marine ply to the fiberglass using Bote cote E glue its a thicker epoxy two part about thick as tooth paste



I then added more bote coat e glue to the inside cut and ground and sanded it out so it matched the port light frame and slide in without force. I used sikaflex but now Id probably use Fix it instead or Dow corning 4200 ( i think its called)I think its called to seal the port lights to the ply wood frames

In your case Id make the frames with just the inside cut out for the port lights and leave the outer part of the ply wood rectangular to take up what you had broken . on your inside panel trim the out side so it fits into what you have cut out so later you can fill in and sand back to it blends into the rest of your old panel.
What I also did was make the cut out larger than the port light needed and filled this in with bote cote e glue and sanded that back till the port light frame could slide in. ( my idea of doing this was so the plywood have far less chance of any rot in ten years time
Also you would not need thick plywood like I used just the same thickness as the ply that exist from the original damaged plywood you have

So you would cut the inner damaged ply out make a new piece to fit in what you have cut out and then trace the port light cut out
Paint the new ply wood with thinned epoxy and then glue it to the existing outer skin of your boat and glass matt it in place sealing the internal ply
Some one else might have a better Idea
If Bretts out there hes good for some ideas and knows his stuff

SandS said...
hi Mcnaught , is the rest of you boats interior in teak ? if not, it will be best to match the new timber to what is already there....

depending how your windows assemble , you may be able to get all the windows fitted to the fiber glass boat so they don't leak .

then refit the timber-internal lining last . as that could be purely a cosmetic finish .

Or if the window has to clamp over the lining as well when being fitted ,then you would need to fit the timber prior to the window .

spend time investigating how the system was done originally . then decide which way you will approach the job . write it down and stick to the plan you develop.

there may be a contractor near you, that is willing to have a close look at the job, and advise you on repair methods .

cheers

Yes Sands ...the possibility is there I yhink if hksssing dtraight in..but did clamp yhrough internal ply

I cleaned and vacuumed my little boat and changed the Bukhs oil and filter and both fuel filters a and checked the gear box oil . I tidied ever thing up and secured the life lines Bolted down the bowsprirt and ran the motor for a while , Driftwood moving to western port with a stop along the way

This job also was not done today but over the last week.

The old "Clipper Sounder" had it's transducer come loose from the resin holding it to the hull which was directly below the head unit. So the readings I was getting were history as it was located behind the keel.

What you are looking for is a bit of future with your sounder by having your transducer fitted well forward in the hull.

The "Clipper" is replaced by a Garmin echo 150, which at $89 from Tackle World I thought was quite a bargain. It is only monochrome but it has dual frequency, alarms and is configurable to read feet, fathoms or metres. The fish find capability is a bonus.






There was a box of sorts over this and the bulkhead and most of the rest of the yacht had been lined with 3 mm particle board with a matte white finish. The previous owner went to a huge amount of trouble cutting it to size and shape and then glueing it in with liquid nails but buggered it up by using cheap material.

I have removed most of it and I am going to paint the glass with gloss white enamel. The VDO Sumlog is a museum piece and it is replaced with a Garmin GPS Map 72H which though it is their basic unit, it is accurate and has a map plot page. It used in conjunction with Navionics on my 9" tablet should serve my purposes cruising the Queensland coast quite adequately.




I am not going to cut anymore holes and wanted to make best use of the existing holes so I shaped up a piece of meranti from the shed to attach the new instruments to.







Notice the dome nuts on the end of the bolts fitted so that there is nothing sharp to get snagged on.

The halyard and lines bag had to be moved up a couple of inches to prevent fouling on the instruments. I did not use the swivel base for the sounder and flush mounted it to keep the plugs and sockets out of the weather. I bought the weather cover for the sounder also.

I haven't used the swivel part of the GPS mount. The power lead for the GPS is taken through the companionway and it and the GPS are taken inside when not in use so as to keep that socket out of the weather too.

You will see the temperature reading under the depth reading. As the transducer (transom mount type) is mounted inside the hull I won't get an accurate reading of water temperature but hopefully it will be sensitive enough to register changes in water temperature.







The location for the transducer had some loose and flakey paint on it so I gave it a scrape and a bit of sanding. The silicon used is Selleys neutral cure Roof and Gutter Sealant ($8) and was applied with half the nozzle cut off to give a 10 mm bead. It needs to be applied carefully so that there are no air bubbles trapped into it.

I wanted to get it as far forward as possible but also out of the way from getting knocked around. Therefore I placed just behind the main part of the locker under the forward berth.

The 6 metre cable was long enough to reach the head unit but only directly through the main cabin. I will be routing it through the lockers on the starboard side for which purpose I bought the 3 metre extension cable ($40, ouch). Today I bought a 100 pack of stick on cable mounts and zip ties ($26, ouch again) to complete the job. Overall I am really chuffed with the new gear being on the boat.

Does anyone have any ideas for this?


I use a 40 lb plough which is forever causing chipped paint. I was thinking about gluing rubber conveyor belt material to the deck but aside from the fact that it would look crap I'm loath to glue anything to steel in case it rusts underneath.

I was toying with the idea of just building up the paint coating until it's really thick but it would still chipt. I've noticed that you can buy rubber textured coatings but have no experience with them.

japie said..
I mounted mine forward which was a big mistake because it gave crap readings as a result of all the air traveling backward from the bow. I stuck the bloody thing to the hull with Sikaflex and there is no way I can remove it. I had to buy another one!

Well that's a bitch. That Sikaflex is dangerous stuff.

Before the Brisbane to Gladdy races they used to have a dinghy making and racing competition. You could make them out of anything as long as it was all stuck together with Sikaflex. That was probably 10 years ago and I am sure some of those dinghies would still be floating around.