HG02 said..




Well it fits ok cut out the sink hole
Ill leave the plastic on it for now till i fix it down

It's the bench top folded from stainless hope he doesnt change his mind!

Digging out the old depth transducer

Shaggybaxter said..
Finally the deck is all prepped ready for bonding to the hull. It is now down to the last 8 weeks, there seems to be a lot of work still to get done and not enough time...

You know we are not going to let you keep this yacht all for yourself don't you.

Shaggy the old Navman unit was not reliable depths would jump around all over the place
I am replacing it and the speed log with ray marine units
It looks like brass

We just got our little Tugboat launched and all went well.

It just doesn't seem to sail so good and have to keep the engine running!.

More importantly, she sits on the water line spot on, no leaks, prop seems about right and it turns on a dime.

Great day for us-C.R.

CoolRunnings said..




We just got our little Tugboat launched and all went well.

It just doesn't seem to sail so good and have to keep the engine running!.

More importantly, she sits on the water line spot on, no leaks, prop seems about right and it turns on a dime.

Great day for us-C.R.

Congrats, so very pretty

andy59 said..
Digging out the old depth transducer

Just keep digging Andy. Looks like, all around, you're going to be on the hard for a few days :(

On my previous boat, the depth transducer died for no apparent reason in a reasonably short period of time ....i.e. about 3 years. It was the brand of transducer that Raymarine and a whole lot of other brands use for their sounders.

I was always pleased with the Raymarine product itself, so this time I have installed another Raymarine Bidata on the little Folkboat.

Beautiful
heroic even

andy59 said..
Digging out the old depth transducer

Too late now but I would have just faired it off and left it in place. In those early S&S 34s the transducer housing was bronze and built into the boat. May be just have epoxy glued a blank into the housing and left it that.

Once you have it out get an expert fibreglass worker to fill in the hole.

Jabberwock said..
I have an internal transponder (wet box). When I got the boat I think it had VDO depth gauge that did not work. Put in a Navman then a Northstar sounder and tried the old transponder which work OK with the new gear. Still working! However if I raft up with a boat with a newer transponder my one stops reading!

Most sounder/fish finder transponders these days will sound through your hull if just siliconed to the inside making sure there are no air bubbles in the silicon.

I am about to do that with my Garmin echo 150 which comes with a transducer designed for a transom mount which I will silicon to the inside of my fibreglass hull. I will post pics of fit up and results.

The unit was a bargain at $89 so if it does not work in my yacht I will fit it to my tinnie.

cisco said..

I took the furling head sail back aboard and hoisted it. What a drama!!!

Though I have a good quality furler I have determined that a furler on a 30 foot Bermudan sloop rigged yacht is not practical. Therefore when I re-rig in the not too distant future, the furler will be excess to my needs. It takes an 11 metre luff sail.

If it is of use to anybody, let me know.

PM sent

Shaggy, get the best autopilot money can buy. The builders will know or recommend that for you.
As far as wheel or tiller steering I think that at 40 ft wheels are going to be a more user friendly option.
When racing upwind the boat will have a sweet spot of approx 10 deg and 0.5 knot that you can get optimum VMG. It is going to be up to the steerer and trimmers to decide wether you are going for height mode or footing mode and the instruments are going to be the only reference as the boat will feel good in that sweet spot and the sensitivity of feel through a tiller will simply not exist.
Downwind in hair raising conditions I feel that wheel steering is a better option. I think you get a much better view and feel of the movement of the boat standing up rather than sitting down. Your legs give an ability to maintain your balance and you can actually brace off the wheel whilst still steering.
The same holds for all sailing angles offshore. It is far less taxing on the body to be standing using legs as shock absorbers and hanging onto a wheel cf. Sitting and fighting the tiller with only the precarious friction from your bum holding you in place.

Dinghy sailing is a different story and my comments above are relevant to big boats.

I race on a DK46 and we have just fitted a pair of iPads to the wheel binnacles for all displays similar to setup on my boat discussed in music thread.

McNaughtical said..
First porthole out ..worst leaking one...just created myself 10 more jobs...carpentry skills learning curve ahead. ..what a mussion!

buy your self some bote cote epoxy Mc Nautical its the easiest one to measure out make it a little simpler
Remember one job is many smaller jobs don't panic or worry about it. just slowly go through the process and enjoy the learning curve
It will make you one with your boat
And there's plenty of good people in here that can advise you

Donk107 said..

cisco said..

I took the furling head sail back aboard and hoisted it. What a drama!!!

Though I have a good quality furler I have determined that a furler on a 30 foot Bermudan sloop rigged yacht is not practical. Therefore when I re-rig in the not too distant future, the furler will be excess to my needs. It takes an 11 metre luff sail.

If it is of use to anybody, let me know.

Hi Cisco

just wondering in what way is it not practical

Regards Don

If it was cutter rigged I would go with it. Unless a sail is specifically built to be reefed with the furler it is basically fully out or furled up. So in that situation changing down to a smaller sail becomes a major drama.

Just on the anchor yesterday with no breeze I had to use the winch to get the sail up the last 6 feet and I had sprayed the bolt rope with plenty of silicon. Also I was unable to get full luff tension.

The halliard for the furling sail goes through a fairlead bolted to the mast about 200 mm down from the top. This is to stop the top of the furler snagging on it. The other genoa halliard does not go through a fairlead so therefore it is unusable.

This is all peculiar to my boat and maybe would be different on other yachts. For a 30 footer though I think having a furler puts more weight aloft than you really want.

My furling header is a bit old and stretched but otherwise holding together OK and with full luff tension and a bit of tweaking on the leech and foot tension lines It can be made to perform relatively efficiently.

I am not really wanting to lash out for new sails at this point in time.

The other thing I am looking at is putting halliard winches on the mast and only having vang, reefing/outhaul lines and spinnaker pole topper and kicker lines running back to the cockpit. I am a bit of a traditionalist with sail handling and I am able to quickly change sails if they are on hanks. Yes it does mean going forward to do it but I will have jack stay lines rigged, a harness on and be clipped on.

I have been toying with the idea of fitting a "Solent Stay" inside the fore stay and I measured the rig for the possibility of this. It would take my other sails without modifying them but be unuseable because of the snagging of the halliard on the furler top.

Once I have the rig down I may be able to modify things to make it all work but until I do get the rig down it is all speculation.

Roughly fitted some timber trim have to get the right screws yet and make some timber plugs
This timber came out of the forward cabin it was shelving trim
I glued some fiberglass sheet i had laminating it together for my anchor winch above deck for a straight run for the anchor chain
Redirected my piping for the manual bilge pump so ita no longer in my way when im hugging my motor