from what Ive seen wide rims basically stop at 26".
some of the tyres Ive seen are flipping huge, the hookworms are almost as wide as a skinny wheelbarrow tyre.
with all the front 20" tyres I trialled the bes tof the bunch was a primo comet, smooth with a really light sidewall.
if the lake was smoother the tiaga powerblock ,being really skinny seemed the best ride. my maxxis seems to have worn in now and I can see how it would ride better at Walyungup.
I will be fascinated to see how vics new wheel goes as I have a huge pile of regular knobbly tyres that came off all my sacrificed wheels.

i managed 36hrs after the crate was sealed up then started on a mold for a 16" wheel and whipped up a 4m sail that someone had dropped on my doorstep.
dont let on to wifey

16" all polished and waxed ready for tommorrow, plan on doing a skinny 26 as well.
my cheap free tyre count is at 19 after todays trip to the tip.
as i find 26"ally rims i trim them and send them to my freindly tig welder so there is a stockple of prepared rims when I start breaking wheels,
20" was a separate mold. heaps of good solid 20" rims, I have only a few good 24"rims and tyres so ive put that off for now

I have not used any carbon in any of my wheels to date. I have tried different combinations of glass finally settling on making the disc with 1 layer of 8oz woven and 2x4.5oz chopped mat.I have never had many wheel fail in the disc or hub. None have failed since using bike rims. (I did bust one wheel last year when I hit a tire marker)
The weight of the wheels have been getting progressively lighter. The first was close to 5kg and the latest is down to 3.2kg with tire fitted.

When I finally run out of epoxy resin I will try polyester resin the same as Paul has used.
I noticed that Bill has used vinyl resin, is there an advantage in using this resin I have never heard of it before.

Cheers
aus230

hers the destruction test result. the join broke right through the undelaying glas rather at the join , If I had made this join then it was still wet,Irecon this would be rather strong. I suspect i will be starting a new wheel this weekend

Col, There is a scientific notion that certain molecular structures work in a Flip Flop motion what ever one does so does the other.. Well there you have your answer.. You guys are the Flips and we Aussies are the Flops[}:)][}:)]. We tend to steal ideas from around the globe, put our own mark on it and then believe it was totally our own idea in the first place.
OH! We are such a clever lot us Aussies..
Ron

I dont know if I am doing the right thing or not but I run on the beach with about half that pressure on my 26 inch wheels

It will be interesting to see how the skinny wheels go Vic.
I've only sailed my new 5 once so far so it hasn't "talked" to me enough yet (by that I mean seat-of-the-pants-feeling) to really know, but I get the impression that this type of chassis works with the wheels in a completely different way to previous yachts I have built.

Instead of storing its energy from the rig in the torsion (twisting) of the main chassis & bending the axles, it seems to work by storing it more in the axles themselves with direct torsion (& bending). The 26" wheels generate a much greater amount of side force than even 20" wheels & I suspect that this is why the OTT chassis is needed to get the best out of the 26" wheels.
The angle of the rear axles has stayed at 90 degrees at least since 2002 so that must have proved to be the best spot for this to work.
If the tyres are able to move sideways too much it may reduce the energy feedback you can get from the wheels back into the yacht as well as making the yacht a bit twitchy.
On the other hand, it'll be interesting to see how light you can get away with making the wheels.

Can the experts see anything wrong with this plan (trying to save my little head from too much thought) Blag ally wheel of club mate (he doesn't know yet). Add a couple or 3mm to the rim edge with something. Polish, PVA it and take a mould with spigot for centre location. Mould off that, side disks with inbuilt lip to locate ally wheel rim and centre (bit of adjust with dremel but should be fine?). Ally tube hub and spacer as others. Crystal Crestomer 1181a rim and hub to first disc (guy that did my grp course removed all the steel from a grp monocoque car just using sections of grp glued with this stuff). 5 spokes of off the shelf 25mm x 3mm wall grp tube. Glass spokes to hub and rim (that has single layer of glass on it). Crestomer other side on. Spokes will add to weight a bit, but once set up should be accurately repeatable without my brain going pop. Go on....what have I missed

Cheers Col

I 'get' the idea, dual wheels on back. Just like a truck, ay, to carry the weight [}:)]

Hi Vic,
I reckon Kojacks with wide rims will be fastest but wear fast too (who cares?!)

axle angle change I mean

landyacht said...

hers the destruction test result. the join broke right through the undelaying glas rather at the join , If I had made this join then it was still wet,Irecon this would be rather strong. I suspect i will be starting a new wheel this weekend

sorry about that , this is the pic

landyacht said...

colk2004 said...

Can the experts see anything wrong with this plan (trying to save my little head from too much thought) Blag ally wheel of club mate (he doesn't know yet). Add a couple or 3mm to the rim edge with something. Polish, PVA it and take a mould with spigot for centre location. Mould off that, side disks with inbuilt lip to locate ally wheel rim and centre (bit of adjust with dremel but should be fine?). Ally tube hub and spacer as others. Crystal Crestomer 1181a rim and hub to first disc (guy that did my grp course removed all the steel from a grp monocoque car just using sections of grp glued with this stuff). 5 spokes of off the shelf 25mm x 3mm wall grp tube. Glass spokes to hub and rim (that has single layer of glass on it). Crestomer other side on. Spokes will add to weight a bit, but once set up should be accurately repeatable without my brain going pop. Go on....what have I missed
I would be inclined to slice the glass tube along its length to create a domed rib which would be easy to lay onto your disc.
please do the experiment

Cheers Col

lets try that again, how about doing it and show us as you go.
your recycled 5 got a graet showing in the york LYC websitewell done

lets try that again, how about doing it and show us as you go.
your recycled 5 got a graet showing in the york LYC websitewell done

I think that's the way to go - just do it I'm hoping to slightly over engineer as attempts at GRP only (rim as well) wheels last about 3secs after a puncture at Elvington. Ally wheels seem to drop into the tyre saving the wheel - need to work out why. I had toyed with a cone inside, flat outside design for the wheel as the inside face is generally in tension and the outside in compression - do most wheel designs follow two cones because that's what a bike/sulky, etc wheel looks like with covers on? Just been checking out the London Marathon wheelchair racing wheels and they are a lot flatter on the faces but canted a lot further than a land yacht

Thanks for the well done. 'Test Bed' as it is now known has got my knowledge up very quick (unfortunately not in piloting the thing). Currently going through a weight loss exercise, followed by a batten tapering test session (using Bainbridges 16HCP and seeing what I can turf out on the linisher), and also practising my GRP technique on.

Cheers Col