The rigger put a t-ball swage fitting in the mast to take the stay and a sheave box underneath so the halyard runs back down inside the mast. I had a spare exit point at the base. If you have a spare spin halyard perhaps you could lead that down the mast and around an eye of some sort. I could have done that but didn't think of it at the time.

Hey Ramona, The basic purpose is to hank on a jib when the wind gets too strong for my 155%+ genoa. It is a lovely sail but when partially furled it is ugly to windward. I didn't take a photo of this because I don't yet have a hanked jib. I'm trying to organise one to try so I can see how practical this is. I thought this would be better than going down the foam luff route; more sail options, better sail shape, redundancy, etc. And better than me pulling down a large genoa, esp. when the wind gets up.

I have a hanked storm sail as shown so I thought this would be useful also. Good to hear your experience sailing in heavier conditions with a similar boat. I do have a main with 3 reefs.

"I should add that my yacht sails well with the mainsail stowed and the lazy jacks hauled tight in gale conditions on a reach!" - That is pretty funny. :)

DrRog said..
Hey Ramona, The basic purpose is to hank on a jib when the wind gets too strong for my 155%+ genoa. It is a lovely sail but when partially furled it is ugly to windward. I didn't take a photo of this because I don't yet have a hanked jib. I'm trying to organise one to try so I can see how practical this is. I thought this would be better than going down the foam luff route; more sail options, better sail shape, redundancy, etc. And better than me pulling down a large genoa, esp. when the wind gets up.

I have a hanked storm sail as shown so I thought this would be useful also. Good to hear your experience sailing in heavier conditions with a similar boat. I do have a main with 3 reefs.

"I should add that my yacht sails well with the mainsail stowed and the lazy jacks hauled tight in gale conditions on a reach!" - That is pretty funny. :)

Actually I was being serious.

Pick up a Dacron 16 foot skiff jib. Replace the wire luff with Spectra and sew a couple of extra layers of cloth along the luff. Add about 18 inches to the tack to get it clear of the deck. Use the large size plastic screw on hanks.

The Etchells jib is an excellent too for this. It has the press stud hanks and is a heavily resined cloth and stiff and awkward to handle on the deck but sails well.

behind the black wooden seagull breeder, is a shredded main sail and it was cracking like a wip dont know when it happened maybe in last nights storm, but that is stuffed. bottom left is my boat went out for hopefully the last time she is such a good boat but time to move on.

Pulled the mooring up today,



chains getting a bit thin around the wheel there

Ramona said..
Good to see an electrical tie for the mousing on the shackle. Pin still Ok? Presume you replaced the chain anyway.

The mooring contractor said it was ok for another year, so he put a new chain up to the swivel one link longer than this so the old chain will break b4 the new one starts rubbing, talk about getting full use out of the old stuff. he also replaced my 32mm rope and took 2 links off above the swivel.

MichaelR said... Not sure if NSW got the gist of what you want. If it's for your permanent mooring, you need to get something a little more substantial than a snubber..... A standard permanent mooring set up would be a bit like this. Attached to your block, you should have 35mm+ stud link ground chain, with about a 20mm swivel, then enough mild steel 16mm chain to reach the surface, followed by 24mm silver rope protected over the bow roller by heavy duty anti-chaff plastic sleeve, then your bouy and hook up line. Based on your description, you're missing the 24mm silver rope and sleeve.

Quote from Cisco 23/06/2014
Silver rope is not terribly high quality line. Silver line of 24 mm diameter, I am told at out local chandlers, has a minimum breaking load of 4.1 tonne. On the other hand, Superdan rope/line of 20 mm diameter has a minimum breaking load of 6.9 tonne. Nearly twice and it is economical to buy the 125 m coil for $294 and have 75 m left over for other uses as opposed to buying silver line cut off the coil at $4.70/metre. http://www.nobles.com.au/Products/Fibre-Rope/Superdan-Rope The experience of Midtown Marinas in Bundaberg with their moorings was that they were lucky to get three years out of chain on their moorings. This is partly due to current flow in the river which induces electrolysis and erosion of the metal. They then went to using 32 or 35 mm silver rope (that weight of line because they are commercial) and had excellent results until the floods swept everything away. The river was flowing at 80 kmh on the surface and estimated to be flowing at 120 kmh in the depths. The only things that survived in the Burnett River were things that had been there for 100 years. The set up with the mooring lines was that they were 1.5 metres longer than the maximum tidal depth with an eye spliced into each end with plastic tube slid over the line before splicing. Then the eye was passed through the metal eye of the block and the top end of the line passed through the eye at the bottom and pulled up tight. The top end of the mooring line was then shackled to the mooring buoy which was a double cone buoy with a s/steel rod through the middle with an eye top and bottom. The advantages of this system are multiple, assuming the mooring block is of sufficient weight and holding power. Steel and or iron are far superior to concrete as concrete has about 50% buoyancy and steel or iron will self bury in the bottom much quicker. Advantages:- No electrolysis or chafe of mooring tackle if subject to tidal or current flows. Easy replacement of mooring tackle. All the diver has to take down is the new line and a knife to cut the old one away. In choppy conditions the rope tackle will not jerk like chain and there are less wear points. With the buoy set up as described all one has to do is approach the mooring, grab it's grab line (short and not dangling in the water, therefore no grunge), slip a line through the eye atop the buoy and secure both ends to the vessel. No need to bring any marine growth on deck. The mooring I am in the process of building for Second Wind in the Distillery Reach of the Burnett River has to be a fore and aft mooring. The upstream weight will be two truck brake drums filled with other weights and joined with steel bars around which will go the mooring tackle. The downstream weight will be a single truck brake drum also weight filled with a steel eye in the middle. For my 4 tonne yacht the upstream weight will be around 250 kg or a quarter of a tonne and half that for the downstream.

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Advice-please-best-solution-for-a-mooring-chain/

Hypothetical for my needs but Donaghy's Aquatec rope is another "new" rope solution. I think the rope with plastic chafe point would be my choice.

By the Way South Ace many thanks for your old Taps they will get used

Is that cushion white and gold, or blue and black?

Ramona said..
I was down checking my mooring yesterday. I have the usual chain on the bottom and a swivel then rope riser to the deck cleat. At high tide the swivel was just touching the bottom and nicely polished. The problem we get here is a failure of the shackle pin on the shackle to the swivel and as I noticed on another blokes mooring the pin in the swivel eroded away. This is caused mostly by the wrong mousing material but also the differences in the quality of the steels. I have often considered using nylon strops made up so that the eye splice could be looped through the chain underwater. So the chain would be on the bottom, nylon rope to a swivel 2 to 3 feet off the bottom then nylon back up to the deck cleat. Reduce the mixture of steels and separate them.

It bothers me that no one else thinks the same.

Ramona we use a special rubber industrial mooring bungee as the middle 'chain'.
They have stood up well, my boat is on a double block mooring, bungee is about 3-4 years old now and we have 34ft (our max) steel boats and larger cats all using them.
Sorry no photo's but they have been in use now by others for 7 years, and we are just going to get the oldest sent away for destructive testing.
PM me if you want more info and I will dig up supplier details.

[/
Nearly happy with my stove bulk head
Very thing appears square ill recheck tomorrow
Sinks just fit

Prepared SEAKA for a test sail tomorrow [Tues 10th March], report tomorrow.

HG02 said..

nswsailor said..
Prepared SEAKA for a test sail tomorrow [Tues 10th March], report tomorrow.

Good luck N.S.W.

Weather forecast here today is for rain with a storm this morning and less than 3 knots of wind, think I'll do it tomorrow.

Been up and down the mast every day for the past five days lathering on linseed oil. Looking good. Will post a phot when complete, that is if I don't lose her in the coming cyclone!