Legion said...
I went out at a once-in-a-lifetime novelty wave. Got one or two. Quite a crowd. Suba? No, someone else nuts enough to wear boardies. Horizontal rain sucked.
Well I didn't manage to go in. Last time I went in during similar conditions (early august 2011) at Cove my leash snapped and my board was smashed up on the rocks and I had to swim down to the groyne south of Cove to get back in...several SBers watched from the carpark hahaha.
I've lost so much surf fitness this last 6 months that I would have just been wasted out there today. Time to hit the weights, pools and climbing gym again.