Greenroom said...
I must have just come in Smick? I recognise those surfers. They were out when I was out.
Do you ride a surfboard? I'm curious, because there used to be people on the forum from which I am banned who would say they'd just use your type of board when conditions were marginal, but a while back I was in the opposite direction to where you live and there were a tonne of your craft even when it was smoking (outnumbering surfboards most of the time). And the funny part was, all except one of them were too scared to sit deep, I guess because you wouldn't want to get caught inside (can't blame them, it's not fun even on a surfboard). There was one guy one day, a white guy with dreadlocks (no, I'm pretty sure it wasn't you) who had some sort of ability but none of the rest did so that didn't help things. And I wondered, why on earth wouldn't you ride a surfboard and give yourself the best possible chance and the maximum enjoyment? Why sit down the line on the shoulder and drift out to the horizon every time a set loomed instead of relishing it and sitting in the impact zone? Even if you don't go, it's a sight to behold when one of those freight trains breaks metres away.
Also, do you get stinkeye out at NP (if that's where you're talking about)? I'm surprised you paddle out there. Doesn't seem the friendliest wave (or crowd) for your craft. Or were you talking about the other side?
couldnt afford the the one i wanted
