Legion said...Zuke said...
Legion will be out every day ...
Legion was out every day, in fact twice most days. But Legion's back early due to a less-than-favourable weather forecast at the end. Wednesday looked good but always had to be back before that anyway.
Legion scored, as usual. A few days of marginal waves, but a three day run of 4'+. Including a morning of super low tide with regular 4' sets, occasional 5' sets and the odd 6'er. And for some reason (I know the reason), there were only ever between 1 and 3 other people out all morning.
Place is absolutely infested with SUPs now. More than shortboarders in smaller conditions or fuller tide. Like 10+ most days. Luckily they sit wide or down the line, but a lot of them are clueless. Pretty sure they're the wind crew who SUP/wind morning/afternoon.
Legion got in a very physical and heated discussion with one SUP. Amusing.
On another occasion another one pissed me off by dropping in (of sorts) on three waves before I paddled in in disgust. Watched him do the same to others. I'd already said something, but he ignored it. What do you say to someone who has no idea? It wasn't (I think) malice, it was just ignorance.
Place has no manners or etiquette. It's very frustrating at < 4', when everyone's a hero.
Chatted to a few other SUP guys who obviously had water background, no problem with them.
Surfing standard is very low at this time of year. One guy from town who I've seen/chatted to before is about the only standout. He's got it fully sussed.
The best day I was highly successful in working out some stuff that had bothered me last trip (i.e. wave selection and taking off over draining reef from deep down the line). Right when I thought I had it wired I got thrashed for my overconfidence, bounced off the bottom, but the 20+ good ones far outweighed the one mistake. Some free-diving breathing exercises beforehand paid dividends.
Also got several afternoons in howling onshore at my favourite-in-the-world howling onshore reef, F_________ in front. So predictable and so high-performance.
Maybe some photos to come. There was a kid on the beach who does some sort of semi-pro photography, said he might've got some shots.
Oh yeah, saw Katana's red wood/black rails longboard. English guy? Friendly? Or at least a very similar board.
Hope you get a few tomoz
aside from that, there was apparently a ~2m shark patrolling the metro coast today. didnt hear bout that one?
