what we have now is an uncut diamond..so all the facets have to be shaped...like I said before a bad sander can totally ruin the board at this stage and all the computer nerds in the world have not come up with a machine to do this stage...not to my knowledge anyway....I attack it with 30grit on the grinder first...this is a bit gung ho if your just starting out...I just take off the bulk of the excess resin around the fin box and plugs
then a medium density sanding pad with 60grit paper...again a bit gung ho if your not used to the machine...I love the way the 60grit rips into it

it will take of any high spots in one swipe...I have my stands set up so I can hold the board on about a 45 degree angle...I find it easier to see the shiny spots, and thats what sanding is all about...much like shadows in the shaping...shiny spots play the same role in sanding...when all the shiny's are gone the board is true
here is what I mean...in this shot I have sanded up to my chine rail...you can see the edge of the chine real easy because the filler is still shiny on the other side of the chine
now in this shot I have sanded up to the chine from the rail inwards...you can see where I have left the little shiny line to show me where the chine is...all done with mirrors....and shadows
its all about control of the tools...everyone I have taught to shape over the years...I have said the same when we start...I can show you my technique...but its all in how well you can use the tools...together with a shipload of patience...like the planer this baby becomes an extension to your arm after awhile
this machine is a lot more user friendly and is the one you should do the most with...the orbital I will put finer paper on this to finish off
I even use it to rough out the rails
then the last bit and the most grueling...the hand sanding...this is where we fine tune all the edges and get all the machine swirls out notice I am using my left hand...Im right handed but over the years I have taught myself to use both..it works really well for keeping things symetrical...I can look down both rails from the same angle both sides, it has helped my shaping heaps over the years and is now something I dont even think about...reminds me of the joke..." I would give my right arm to be ambidextrous"...thats it...ready for pinlines, then finish coat and polish...not long now Tassie