last post the board was roughed out...now its time to start fine tuning...I like to get the stringer down as accurate as I can..I figure if the stringer is right..correct curve and no bumps and whoops...everything will flow on..a number 3 hand plane is my tool of choice for this..I will use smaller planes as I go...to keep stringer down
when I'm happy with the stringer, the trusty sureform comes out and I smooth off the major highs..then I
will go to the no.3 to take it a step further
out comes a pupose built sanding block I call the torture board...a long skiny block with 40grit sanpaper stuck to it...great block for accuracy...tough on the old shoulders
measure the concave with a neat little tool I picked up in Japan
then an age old procedure called winding sticks to make sure you have no twist,
I'm happy with the bottom so it's time for the deck..I've turned off one light so you can see how easy it is to see the shadows...remember the shadows...without them you are pushing $hit up hill to get a good accurate shape,
up and down the board with long smooth cuts..take a sureform and take off all the shadows...methodicaly working towards the stringer,
when you have taken as many shadows off as you can you should have a roughly domed deck..the torture board is then used to smooth out any highs...I like to use small strokes at about 45 degrees...starting from the tail and working towards the nose...rolling the torture board over as you go you should end up with a nice smooth rolled deck...the more roll the finer the rail...making sure you leave enough thickness in the rail to shape the rail you desire,
bottom shape is done and deck is rolled...next step...rails...but its beer oclock.