Late last evening, a sneaky powerful swell popped up out of nowhere. Lots of straighthanders, but pulled into a few and had a wicked time. Standing on the beach with a mate at the end of the session, we sucked down a few cleansing ales and were watching the sunset over the ocean. Feeling good.
A shortboarder walks by with a big grin, and says "How good was that? :-) Bit straight, but great fun". We talked for a bit, and off he went. Good stuff.
I'm high on the stoke today, and when in these moods, really struggle to see why people can't simply enjoy each others company!