My First Surf Shape....? (not Surf Shapes)

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Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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27 Aug 2009 9:52pm
lacey said...

119 litres is going to be tight at 84 kg's i reckon, but the wider nose will help you stability wise
cheers



hmm...yeah I was hoping it would end up around 120L after shaping so it would need to be around 130L as an un shaped blank. My oxbow is around 127L and it is ok for float, just the rounded deck makes it a little tippy but I'm used to it.

If I go slightly thicker in the tail it should gain another 10L which should be about right.
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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28 Aug 2009 12:36am
This is with the tail thinned out. You can see the old line. Rocker has remained the same.



Blanks for this and a fun large bay/distance board should be ordered Monday I hope.
Gorgo
Gorgo
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28 Aug 2009 2:22pm
dtm said...

shape the bottom curve first and finsh the bottom first as its the most important part and the rocker is so important to how a board goes if the rocker is out the board will go crap no matter how good you do all the rest!...


I agree rocker is ultra-important, but how precise do you have to be? Given that people make up board measurements out of their head based on discussions with friends, favourite boards they have ridden, inspiration, blind optimism, slip of the hand, materials etc ....
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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30 Aug 2009 7:02pm
Blanks getting ordered Monday. Will be shaped Wednesday or Thursday. I'll take photo's as we go to document the birth!
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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5 Sep 2009 12:41am
I picked up the blanks today. We ended up getting an 8'5" full nose (which is the outlines above), an 8'8" narrow nose and a 9'0" bizarre thing.

So this is the blank of the 8'5" full nose. Un shaped there is so much foam! I thinned out the tail profile before getting
it cut but now I have the real thing in my hands I realised it needs more taken out.

The angle is a bit wierd but wide point is just forward of centre


Came out at just under 29.5" wide and a bees dick over 4" thick.


I really like the rocker. Hard to tell in the pix but really nice gradual curve with a little kick at the nose. Tail lift maybe a fraction more than I would like.


You can see it's too thick about 2' from both nose and tail.


I'll post more pix as I shape, put boxes in and glass.
DavidJohn
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5 Sep 2009 12:44am
Looks really good Brendan.. I especially like the slightly piny tail shape.

DJ
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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5 Sep 2009 10:52pm
I'm too scared to touch it with sand paper, let alone the plane!

How do I get the balls to start ripping into it????

It's all in my head, I know what I want and need to do but can't bring myself to start. I think I will go
get some waves first thing tomorrow to clear the head and when I get home it's game on!
oliver
oliver
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5 Sep 2009 8:55pm
I know fire up that home made tool of yours - that hot wire cutter connected to the car battery I saw the plans for the other day. Looked good on paper
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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6 Sep 2009 11:47pm
Here's a pic of the rocker straight from the foam guys pre cut.

I shaped a bunch of it tonight, I'll post some pix in a minute.





Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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7 Sep 2009 12:04am
I was nervous starting but once I got into it I couldn't stop. I marked a centre line on both sides and then had
a good look at the rails on my Oxbow and Jimmy Lewis. I then marked out some guestimates on the blank
and got stuck into it.

Cutting the left rail into the deck with my home made wire cutter



Cutting in the right side



Battery went flat about now so didn't get any photos sanding or cutting in the diamond tail. Here's some pix of
the blank as it is now. Rails cut top and bottom with wire cutter and partially sanded and nose and tail 90% done.
I still need to put the concave and V into the bottom. Cos I was sanding on the back deck it started getting
a bit messy so I'll finish tomorrow night in a place with no wind!









Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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7 Sep 2009 12:07am
After looking at it again I think I'll get rid of the diamond tail. Might just take the corners of it and turn it into a narrow pin or round tail
DavidJohn
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7 Sep 2009 12:41am
Nice job Brendan.. Lucky you didn't have to go through all this first.. Imagine all the waste.

DJ

Bnaccas
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7 Sep 2009 12:44am
Thats next, JC and I have big plans!
LSD
LSD
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LSD LSD
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7 Sep 2009 9:38am
Nice job brendon, very neat.
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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7 Sep 2009 9:46am
Hey Dean, how do I stop this from happening?
Is it something I am doing wrong?

It's when I'm sanding with 80gt on a block it seems to sometimes rip entire balls out. Not sure why.

Will the wire or lesser sand paper clear this up or make it worse?



log man
log man
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7 Sep 2009 11:03am
naccas , it looks like the dogs bollocks already. In my experience, don't worry too much about "ripping your balls out", (this goes for every one on this forum). Don't try to sand out the blemishes that only leads to leaving an indentation and then over correction when you try to keep things symetrical. the sealer will fix the minor dents and scratches and by the time you put you glass on you can't see any mistakes. at the stage your at your only shaping for the shape, if you know what I mean, the surface imperfections will take care of themselves later on. Do I remember correctly, that you were changing to a 3x6 top and a 2x6 bottom ? That will give you a super strong board but a bit heavy. I've done 3 boards with this layup, there tough but if you drop them in the carpark they'll still crack, I recon your building a HY-PO board so go 1x6 and 2x6 and live with it, you don't look like a heavy weight so your not going to dent the deck. I recon these boards are so thick that the rigidity makes them super strong in the surf , sure if you drop it in the car park , it will ding but so will a 3x6 plus 4x6, I recon go light , still plenty strong enough. your choice, but If you go heavy I will still respect you in the morning .
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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7 Sep 2009 12:12pm
Thanks Logman,

I think I'm going to go 1 x 6oz on bottom a 2 x 6oz top with a small divynacell patch under feet in standing position. I've built all fin boxes into divynacell as well for strength with little added weight.

I'll document the remainder of the project!
oliver
oliver
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7 Sep 2009 10:36am
I think what logman says makes sense. No point in overdoing it with glass as it will still be brittle. Your board is looking great - really starting to take shape.
Bnaccas
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8 Sep 2009 12:28am
I'm going to do this to stop heel dints around standing area,

Add 2 pieces of 12mm PVC around the standing area, cut it into the deck about 6mm and glass it in, then sand back to the same height as the deck. I've made the pads much larger than my feet but should disperse the load better and I often change my stance slightly depending on conditions, choppy, windy etc.



I know this could be a little over the top but the 3mm PVC I have feels like it wouldn't strengthen crap.
LSD
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8 Sep 2009 8:02am
Bnaccas said...

Hey Dean, how do I stop this from happening?
Is it something I am doing wrong?

It's when I'm sanding with 80gt on a block it seems to sometimes rip entire balls out. Not sure why.

Will the wire or lesser sand paper clear this up or make it worse?





Thats just a normal trait of shaping EPS. It can be minimised in time with practice. What grade do you have?
The lighter grade the worse it is. When you seal, just fill any stuf like that with q cell, you will never see it again, even with a clear board.
Keep up the good work!
OG SUP
OG SUP
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8 Sep 2009 8:03am
Brendon the board looks great.

I think the 12 mm PVC is overkill but you wont regret it in the long term.

Are you going to put a patch under the Kick pad as well, it takes as much wear, tear and punishment as where you stand.

Its great to see it evolving.

Phill
Cam Gillies
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8 Sep 2009 7:40am
Hey Brendan,
How do you know where you are going to stand?, this may sound dumb but the balance point can be deceiving, depending on volume distribution and width in nose and tail it can effect where you spend your time standing.
DavidJohn
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8 Sep 2009 8:20am
I have found that 99% of the time I stand centered around the hand hole..and the hand hole is at the balance point.. That may help.

DJ
LSD
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8 Sep 2009 8:30am
Bnaccas said...

I'm going to do this to stop heel dints around standing area,

Add 2 pieces of 12mm PVC around the standing area, cut it into the deck about 6mm and glass it in, then sand back to the same height as the deck. I've made the pads much larger than my feet but should disperse the load better and I often change my stance slightly depending on conditions, choppy, windy etc.



I know this could be a little over the top but the 3mm PVC I have feels like it wouldn't strengthen crap.


It may pay to invesigate what you intend doing with the small hard inserts.
With harder grades of EPS it may be ok, but at 12mm thats the thickness engineered/specified for use on a 32' yacht hull! Regardless of how is glassed it will end up at or near 100% stiff & the surounding laminate wont. You may end up with cracking or delam as the rectangle sinks into the soft EPS in time.
The simple way to try it is get a piece of stiff ply/chip board...anything the same size as your pvc inserts, & stand on it & a piece of smooth 100mm or so EPS, (must be near board thichness) to see how much depression you can put in the EPS sample. Put all your weight on it this will give more of an exteded ues simulation, as EPS can have a memory effect.
Also the square edges of you hard inserts will create what is called a "hard point" where the deck is going from single skin to sandwich.
The easyest & by far the best way around all this is to use an insert in one piece the width of your flat area deck & about 600 mm long at least, bcause like most surfers, you will be standing "surf stance" when paddling hard for a wave, or in rough water. I have 2 "natural stance" depressions on the 82. Not side by side.

Hey....and after all this......the 3mm is a far better option it spreads the load perfectly and will not cause cracking. If you still dont think 3mm is enough, go 6mm.... 2 x 3mm, laminated with light glass between.
Thats what cobra used to do on JP sailboard decks, bullet proof. A 3mm 60kg PVC & a 100kg PVC with a 4 oz fiberglass lamination join.
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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8 Sep 2009 5:55pm
Cam Gillies said...

Hey Brendan,
How do you know where you are going to stand?, this may sound dumb but the balance point can be deceiving, depending on volume distribution and width in nose and tail it can effect where you spend your time standing.


I have a fair idea, by looking at it from the side you can pretty much tell. Also the actual inserts are a fair bit bigger than my feet so shouldn't be a problem. I looked at my 12kg Oxbow at where the foot marks were and used that as a general guide on how big the area needed to be.
oliver
oliver
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8 Sep 2009 4:06pm
When I first looked at those inserts, I thought that it would just cause depressions/cracks around where the inserts are - they don't look big enough. I reckon a single layer of thin ply wood covering the entire foot area would displace the foot pressure much better than the two inserts you are planning.
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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8 Sep 2009 6:11pm
LSD said...
The easyest & by far the best way around all this is to use an insert in one piece the width of your flat area deck & about 600 mm long at least, bcause like most surfers, you will be standing "surf stance" when paddling hard for a wave, or in rough water. I have 2 "natural stance" depressions on the 82. Not side by side.

Hey....and after all this......the 3mm is a far better option it spreads the load perfectly and will not cause cracking. If you still dont think 3mm is enough, go 6mm.... 2 x 3mm, laminated with light glass between.
Thats what cobra used to do on JP sailboard decks, bullet proof. A 3mm 60kg PVC & a 100kg PVC with a 4 oz fiberglass lamination join.



2 x 3mm pvc laminated together can't be that hard and I could easily make it that size (600mm long and stretch across the board).

With this PVC I'm assuming I will only need 2 x 6oz deck, without adding an extra piece around standing area?
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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8 Sep 2009 6:17pm
oliver said...

When I first looked at those inserts, I thought that it would just cause depressions/cracks around where the inserts are - they don't look big enough. I reckon a single layer of thin ply wood covering the entire foot area would displace the foot pressure much better than the two inserts you are planning.


Yeah in the photo it's hard to tell, but they are much bigger than they look. I might end up going Dean's idea of laminating 2 x 3mm PVC. Next time I get another sheet I will get 5mm PVC to save time. They just gave me the 3mm as it was damaged. There is still more sheets there I will go pick up.
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
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10 Sep 2009 11:26pm
Fin box is in, blank has been sealed and ready to be glassed.

Should be finished by the end of the weekend if all goes to plan!
(thats if JC is available who has kindy offered his garage - thanks Jonothan!)
daletor
daletor
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14 Sep 2009 11:21am
Bnaccas said...

Fin box is in, blank has been sealed and ready to be glassed.

Should be finished by the end of the weekend if all goes to plan!
(thats if JC is available who has kindy offered his garage - thanks Jonothan!)


You must be getting excited! It is a real challenge to build a board and very rewarding when you get your first rides. Always great to follow the building of new boards
Dale

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