Hey Serb
you can have confidence in your old Yanmar! Those old engines go forever. When Dave McKay ran the boatyard at Botany Bay Yacht Club, he inherited Doug Charmers' old plywood ex world war 2 workboat which sank periodically. It had the old Yanmar 8 hp. Probably a YSE8 or whatever was around in the early 1970s.
after each sinking the Yanmar would get a good flush out with diesel, then oil, followed an internal 'rinse' with more diesel. and off if would go again till it sank again! Over 40 years it had maybe 2 rebuilds and was still going when the boat was scrapped, removed to live on elsewhere.
Dave also had an old salvaged Yanmar 8 on his old steel mooring barge to run the winch. That used to sink periodically too ( haha those were the days!) Once it sank off the Airport and it took 2 weeks of dragging to find if! After a good clean out ( I think he might have actually removed the head on that occasion) it lived on for many more years..
I remember one day I helped Dave raise the old workboat after it sank and was using it again about 2 hours later.after a good flush out and about 2 cans of aerostart! Cheers. Keith.
Select to expand quotekjman55 said..
Hey Serb
you can have confidence in your old Yanmar! Those old engines go forever. When Dave McKay ran the boatyard at Botany Bay Yacht Club, he inherited Doug Charmers' old plywood ex world war 2 workboat which sank periodically. It had the old Yanmar 8 hp. Probably a YSE8 or whatever was around in the early 1970s.
after each sinking the Yanmar would get a good flush out with diesel, then oil, followed an internal 'rinse' with more diesel. and off if would go again till it sank again! Over 40 years it had maybe 2 rebuilds and was still going when the boat was scrapped, removed to live on elsewhere.
Dave also had an old salvaged Yanmar 8 on his old steel mooring barge to run the winch. That used to sink periodically too ( haha those were the days!) Once it sank off the Airport and it took 2 weeks of dragging to find if! After a good clean out ( I think he might have actually removed the head on that occasion) it lived on for many more years..
I remember one day I helped Dave raise the old workboat after it sank and was using it again about 2 hours later.after a good flush out and about 2 cans of aerostart! Cheers. Keith.
That little story just warmed my heart. I could just picture that, thanks Keith!
Select to expand quoteKinora said..
Thanks, r13. I plead an old school education and the consequent compulsion to use punctuation. 
Thanks for the link perversely enjoyable, the timing on the Deltic would be mind boggling. On a different but perhaps related note, I was explaining the purpose of blower on the 2 stroke diesel which led to a calculation that the DD 471 @ 1000rpm would consume 4.8 m3 of air per minute. Please excuse the drift back to yse
So glad to hear you are never going to use that engine to move the boat.
A great example of how robust diesels are.
And please ,you are never going to use that engine to move the boat.
Select to expand quotekjman55 said..
The biggest thing to kill an old Yanmar 8 is the ridiculous price of parts!
Actually they are ridiculously cheap if you can spend time finding the bits on alibaba.com. I think the headgaskets are something like 10 bucks. I would probably make my own out of copper or get one of the local firms to make one for me.
www.obrien-aluminium.com.au/gasket.html
Select to expand quotekjman55 said..
Hey Serb
you can have confidence in your old Yanmar! Those old engines go forever. When Dave McKay ran the boatyard at Botany Bay Yacht Club, he inherited Doug Charmers' old plywood ex world war 2 workboat which sank periodically. It had the old Yanmar 8 hp. Probably a YSE8 or whatever was around in the early 1970s.
after each sinking the Yanmar would get a good flush out with diesel, then oil, followed an internal 'rinse' with more diesel. and off if would go again till it sank again! Over 40 years it had maybe 2 rebuilds and was still going when the boat was scrapped, removed to live on elsewhere.
Dave also had an old salvaged Yanmar 8 on his old steel mooring barge to run the winch. That used to sink periodically too ( haha those were the days!) Once it sank off the Airport and it took 2 weeks of dragging to find if! After a good clean out ( I think he might have actually removed the head on that occasion) it lived on for many more years..
I remember one day I helped Dave raise the old workboat after it sank and was using it again about 2 hours later.after a good flush out and about 2 cans of aerostart! Cheers. Keith.
Going to check is everything is ok today, so I can go and sail a bit this morning. Yes YSE8 or YSB8 are really bulletproof. The only thin that I don't like is the starting process. It takes a while to start and starter motor will die like this. can't wait till mechanic makes it perfect. Now I am glad that I Nanni of beta can not fit into Tasman.
stay safe
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
changed head gasket (made my self from aluminium)
If you are going to fabricate a head gasket you should use copper and anneal it before fitting.
Better is to make two thin copper gaskets and another made from heat proof gasket material to be sanwiched between the copper gaskets.
Ideally fit a genuine head gasket unless you are very skilled at making gaskets.
Select to expand quoteKinora said..
Hi Woko, the British engine firm Napier took that concept a long way, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napier_Deltic.
Those Napier Deltics were fitted to our old mine sweepers.
They had an annoying habit of revving to destruction and flying into pieces in a couple of seconds if the govenor failed.
One of our engineering officers was in the engine room when that happened and it made him a nervous wreck. He had a gap in his front teeth through which spittle ejected when he was talking. We knick-named him "The Tooth Dairy". Some ex pussers here might remember him.
Hi Serb,
I hope you can find someone to rebuild that engine for you.
I like to point out a couple of things that may help in the future.
Firstly very few sailing yachts are engineered to maintain hull speed or even achieve hull speed at all.
Travelling at hull speed is a bit like driving in your car at the top speed on the speedometer.
Even your new Hanse won't be designed to cruise at hull speed regularly unless it has some kind of engine upgrade.
It would greatly benefit you to practice sailing in stronger winds, get familiar with reefing and reducing sail. A boat like the Tasman 26 is more than capable to sail home in heavy weather with the right sail combination.
let the engine be a back up as it was designed to be, not a go to when the wind gets up.
Do yourself a good deed and practice your reefing and sailing in stronger conditions.
Also it may be worth looking outside of Sydney for an engine rebuilder.
Select to expand quotestray said..
Hi Serb,
I hope you can find someone to rebuild that engine for you.
I like to point out a couple of things that may help in the future.
Firstly very few sailing yachts are engineered to maintain hull speed or even achieve hull speed at all.
Travelling at hull speed is a bit like driving in your car at the top speed on the speedometer.
Even your new Hanse won't be designed to cruise at hull speed regularly unless it has some kind of engine upgrade.
It would greatly benefit you to practice sailing in stronger winds, get familiar with reefing and reducing sail. A boat like the Tasman 26 is more than capable to sail home in heavy weather with the right sail combination.
let the engine be a back up as it was designed to be, not a go to when the wind gets up.
Do yourself a good deed and practice your reefing and sailing in stronger conditions.
Also it may be worth looking outside of Sydney for an engine rebuilder.
Thanks,
Yesterday I went to a sail I just couldn't wait. Of course on the way back to mooring engine got hot and died on me. I achieved 5 knots motoring. What is coming through my head is to inspect an exhaust elbow. Why would an engine died when getting hot. Diesel is normally getting happier when hotter. Impeller is working, water is cooling the engine and there is no issues on that side. It could be that blocked exhaust is actually causing engine to die and low compression. Any suggestions how to remove it safety without breaking anything?
thanks
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
Thanks,
Yesterday I went to a sail I just couldn't wait. Of course on the way back to mooring engine got hot and died on me. I achieved 5 knots motoring. What is coming through my head is to inspect an exhaust elbow. Why would an engine died when getting hot. Diesel is normally getting happier when hotter. Impeller is working, water is cooling the engine and there is no issues on that side. It could be that blocked exhaust is actually causing engine to die and low compression. Any suggestions how to remove it safety without breaking anything?
thanks
Hang on,
it got hot and died, impeller working etc.
So is water exiting with the exhaust but it is still getting hot. Did the new head gasket you made have holes for all the cooling and oil passages?
On the subject of getting happier hotter, sea water cooled engines are designed to run at about 50 degrees C any hotter and they block up with salt deposits. If you connected some hoses up wrong it could be just pumping water out the exhaust not through the motor, or was there no water out the exhaust which is why you think it's blocked?
Select to expand quotestray said..Serb1980 said..
Thanks,
Yesterday I went to a sail I just couldn't wait. Of course on the way back to mooring engine got hot and died on me. I achieved 5 knots motoring. What is coming through my head is to inspect an exhaust elbow. Why would an engine died when getting hot. Diesel is normally getting happier when hotter. Impeller is working, water is cooling the engine and there is no issues on that side. It could be that blocked exhaust is actually causing engine to die and low compression. Any suggestions how to remove it safety without breaking anything?
thanks
Hang on,
it got hot and died, impeller working etc.
So is water exiting with the exhaust but it is still getting hot. Did the new head gasket you made have holes for all the cooling and oil passages?
On the subject of getting happier hotter, sea water cooled engines are designed to run at about 50 degrees C any hotter and they block up with salt deposits. If you connected some hoses up wrong it could be just pumping water out the exhaust not through the motor, or was there no water out the exhaust which is why you think it's blocked?
Pulley out the exhaust elbow. Blocked! Now soaking in petrol till tomorrow. Really wondering to see what will happened tomorrow when clean elbow is back. If the black smoke is still coming of chocking engine than is an air intake or injector. Otherwise I will call mechanic to pull a part and rebuild it from scratch with fixed bore and new piston end rings.
Too little space to work on it inside the boat using mirrors. Enough is enough. Even thinking of call beta and give them 14k and I am in peace with a new engine of 14hp.
Instead of sailing I am spending hours/ days trying to repair this engine. Getting sick of it!
Didn't even tried once to pull a spinnaker on my boat!!! Really getting sick of this. Boat is there to have fun and to enjoy the harbour and life not to suffer like this! Honestly..
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..stray said..Serb1980 said..
Thanks,
Yesterday I went to a sail I just couldn't wait. Of course on the way back to mooring engine got hot and died on me. I achieved 5 knots motoring. What is coming through my head is to inspect an exhaust elbow. Why would an engine died when getting hot. Diesel is normally getting happier when hotter. Impeller is working, water is cooling the engine and there is no issues on that side. It could be that blocked exhaust is actually causing engine to die and low compression. Any suggestions how to remove it safety without breaking anything?
thanks
Hang on,
it got hot and died, impeller working etc.
So is water exiting with the exhaust but it is still getting hot. Did the new head gasket you made have holes for all the cooling and oil passages?
On the subject of getting happier hotter, sea water cooled engines are designed to run at about 50 degrees C any hotter and they block up with salt deposits. If you connected some hoses up wrong it could be just pumping water out the exhaust not through the motor, or was there no water out the exhaust which is why you think it's blocked?
Pulley out the exhaust elbow. Blocked! Now soaking in petrol till tomorrow. Really wondering to see what will happened tomorrow when clean elbow is back. If the black smoke is still coming of chocking engine than is an air intake or injector. Otherwise I will call mechanic to pull a part and rebuild it from scratch with fixed bore and new piston end rings.
Too little space to work on it inside the boat using mirrors. Enough is enough. Even thinking of call beta and give them 14k and I am in peace with a new engine of 14hp.
Instead of sailing I am spending hours/ days trying to repair this engine. Getting sick of it!
Didn't even tried once to pull a spinnaker on my boat!!! Really getting sick of this. Boat is there to have fun and to enjoy the harbour and life not to suffer like this! Honestly..
Hiya Serb,
Working on boats can sure disappoint when you apply time to any maintenance or repair works!. They say everything takes twice as long when working on a boat, in actual fact if it only takes you twice as long you are doing pretty good!
The hydraulic ram and pump was a case in point:
-- 6 weeks from start to finish.
-- 2 days in removal, installation and transport;
-- 1 day in disassembly and cleaning;
-- 1 day for de-galling the ram cylinder threads and end caps;
-- 1/2 day glass papering the ram cylinder where the seals and bearings are positioned;
-- 3 weeks in chasing and getting my hands on the right sized seals;
-- 30 mins to replace the actual seal. (This was the actual repair.)
-- 10 days chasing an errant electrical issue after re-installation.
I had planned and estimated it to take 9 days start to finish. It ended up being 42. 
Good pick up on the exhaust elbow, but don't be surprised if you end up buying a new elbow. It might need a few days of soak with muriatic acid or lacquer thinners to make any difference. Then when you have it clean you might find the corrosion is more than you realized and you end up replacing it anyway. Hopefully it comes up all sparkly new, but If it is badly clogged just buy a new one, save yourself some time.
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
Pulley out the exhaust elbow. Blocked! Now soaking in petrol till tomorrow. Really wondering to see what will happened tomorrow when clean elbow is back.
It won't be clean after soaking in petrol!!
Use what Shaggy suggested from Bunnings: Bondall 5L Hydrochloric Acid.Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
................................ Getting sick of it!
Get used to it!! 
Select to expand quoteLazzz said..Serb1980 said..
Pulley out the exhaust elbow. Blocked! Now soaking in petrol till tomorrow. Really wondering to see what will happened tomorrow when clean elbow is back.
It won't be clean after soaking in petrol!!
Use what Shaggy suggested from Bunnings: Bondall 5L Hydrochloric Acid.Serb1980 said..
................................ Getting sick of it!
Get used to it!!
Bunnings was closed yesterday. Anyway made a bbq and burned all carbon in charcoal. once back made some improvement but still the same sickness!. As soon as alternator belt is added engine is struggling for 30 sec to catch full revs.
When try to engage the prop engine is getttibg weaker. If is only to charge batteries it would be ok but I need a hull speed when kids on board and sailing outside the heads. Tasman has been modified (mast is extra 3m tall, bigger Genoa, an extra pair of back stays etc.. ) with my expertise I get in trouble very quickly out side the heads. NEED hull speed And a reliable engine. I don't have time to play with a lighter in air intake for YSE to start while outside is madness all of a sudden.
I love my YSE8 but I am serious thinking to call Beta and get 14hp for 11k and another 3 for installation. My Tasman has been a champion for many years and I want to continue that in the honour of her late owner. I want to go down to Adelaide where the boat has been racing (From Adelaide to Port Lincon and many others.). Still struggling what to do! Pay 3-4K and have reconditioned YSE or 14k, lot of fun and piece of mind for next 20.
If reconditioned property YSE will save a lot of money and I can use that money for new sails!
??????????
To clarify, as per a prior photo in one of your posts which I interpreted was your boat, your Tasman has not been modified - it is simply the fractional rigged version. Most were built with the standard mast head rig version. The fractional rig version involves a mainsail of longer luff and foot, and hence a higher mast overall with a tapered upper end. The hounds are located down from the masthead - the hounds being where the genoa and jibs halyard goes to - hence the term fractional rig. The mast is stepped a bit further forward to ensure the centre of effort of the sail plan (mainsail area plus foretriangle area) remains in the same place as the original design standard masthead rig. The keel and rudder were not altered in any way as far as I know. I assume the "extra pair of backstays" you refer to are the runners each side of the mainsail, from the transom to the hounds, to assist in getting enough forestay tension with the original in-line spreaders. The fractional rig design has numerous benefits and in the hands of an experienced crew would be one of the reasons to explain why your boat was a champion for many years.
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..Lazzz said..Serb1980 said..
Pulley out the exhaust elbow. Blocked! Now soaking in petrol till tomorrow. Really wondering to see what will happened tomorrow when clean elbow is back.
It won't be clean after soaking in petrol!!
Use what Shaggy suggested from Bunnings: Bondall 5L Hydrochloric Acid.Serb1980 said..
................................ Getting sick of it!
Get used to it!!
Bunnings was closed yesterday. Anyway made a bbq and burned all carbon in charcoal. once back made some improvement but still the same sickness!. As soon as alternator belt is added engine is struggling for 30 sec to catch full revs.
When try to engage the prop engine is getttibg weaker. If is only to charge batteries it would be ok but I need a hull speed when kids on board and sailing outside the heads. Tasman has been modified (mast is extra 3m tall, bigger Genoa, an extra pair of back stays etc.. ) with my expertise I get in trouble very quickly out side the heads. NEED hull speed And a reliable engine. I don't have time to play with a lighter in air intake for YSE to start while outside is madness all of a sudden.
I love my YSE8 but I am serious thinking to call Beta and get 14hp for 11k and another 3 for installation. My Tasman has been a champion for many years and I want to continue that in the honour of her late owner. I want to go down to Adelaide where the boat has been racing (From Adelaide to Port Lincon and many others.). Still struggling what to do! Pay 3-4K and have reconditioned YSE or 14k, lot of fun and piece of mind for next 20.
If reconditioned property YSE will save a lot of money and I can use that money for new sails!
??????????
Hiya Serb,
You seem to refer to 'needing hull speed' as having an iron engine that can push the boat to hull speed. Is that right?
I get why you want a reliable engine, that's logical. But I don't get why you think its a solution for getting home in foul weather,
In nearly all cases, sailboats need to use sails as propulsion in foul conditions, not the diesel. Its not just about the power (which is heavily favoured toward sails)., A yacht under engine is an entirely different beast than when under sail. It's motion will be more aggressive and its yaw/pitch/roll is more pronounced. It's uncomfortable to say the least and debilitating at worse.
Even the best diesel in the world won't change that.
I would:
- reco/repair the YSE8;
- learn how best to reduce sail area on the Tasman;
- use the spare change to buy sail/s that help you to easily reduce sail plan.
Cheers!
SB
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..Serb1980 said..Lazzz said..Serb1980 said..
Pulley out the exhaust elbow. Blocked! Now soaking in petrol till tomorrow. Really wondering to see what will happened tomorrow when clean elbow is back.
It won't be clean after soaking in petrol!!
Use what Shaggy suggested from Bunnings: Bondall 5L Hydrochloric Acid.Serb1980 said..
................................ Getting sick of it!
Get used to it!!
Bunnings was closed yesterday. Anyway made a bbq and burned all carbon in charcoal. once back made some improvement but still the same sickness!. As soon as alternator belt is added engine is struggling for 30 sec to catch full revs.
When try to engage the prop engine is getttibg weaker. If is only to charge batteries it would be ok but I need a hull speed when kids on board and sailing outside the heads. Tasman has been modified (mast is extra 3m tall, bigger Genoa, an extra pair of back stays etc.. ) with my expertise I get in trouble very quickly out side the heads. NEED hull speed And a reliable engine. I don't have time to play with a lighter in air intake for YSE to start while outside is madness all of a sudden.
I love my YSE8 but I am serious thinking to call Beta and get 14hp for 11k and another 3 for installation. My Tasman has been a champion for many years and I want to continue that in the honour of her late owner. I want to go down to Adelaide where the boat has been racing (From Adelaide to Port Lincon and many others.). Still struggling what to do! Pay 3-4K and have reconditioned YSE or 14k, lot of fun and piece of mind for next 20.
If reconditioned property YSE will save a lot of money and I can use that money for new sails!
??????????
Hiya Serb,
You seem to refer to 'needing hull speed' as having an iron engine that can push the boat to hull speed. Is that right?
I get why you want a reliable engine, that's logical. But I don't get why you think its a solution for getting home in foul weather,
In nearly all cases, sailboats need to use sails as propulsion in foul conditions, not the diesel. Its not just about the power (which is heavily favoured toward sails)., A yacht under engine is an entirely different beast than when under sail. It's motion will be more aggressive and its yaw/pitch/roll is more pronounced. It's uncomfortable to say the least and debilitating at worse.
Even the best diesel in the world won't change that.
I would:
- reco/repair the YSE8;
- learn how best to reduce sail area on the Tasman;
- use the spare change to buy sail/s that help you to easily reduce sail plan.
Cheers!
SB
Thanks,
I am getting faster and faster to furl in the Genoa. That was the issue before. I need the engine to help me run into harbour without completely turning the boat upside down. Hate to repair broken windows and dry the boat inside. It's not always like this most of the time is indescribable joy but ones I got in so much trouble I really got scared. I thought it's over. The funny thing is everyone is saying plan your trip! Yes it was planed and from 11 knots of wind I ended up in the middle of the hurricane. Rain and wind was so strong that I could see 50m from me. 20 min later is just like nothing has happened. No wind at all..
This is sick honesty and when that happens, twice a year I want to make sure that I am ready.
When it comes to cruising with my wife and kids engine must be strong and hull speed must be on so I can take then further that harbour bridge. ( H bridge is the furthest point I took them because of 3-4 knots max instead of 6.5). Made a small silencer of break cleaner long cane with a few small holes to breath an old air filter sponge inside to cancel the noise so they don't complain ( especially wife??). Today I didn't feel well when I saw that oil is coming from crankshaft valve into the sea. Stopped the engine immediately. That is an environmental hazard! I will give a go with Hume Marine for repatriation otherwise new Beta 14 is coming. In that case I will give my YSE and a spare YSM to some of you for free who will take care of that engine. I will keep informing you that is going on.
Take care and thank you for the advice!
Heaps of "out of service" helicopter turbine engines for sale. They still run ok and the spool up sounds so cool. Super cheap horse power , way cheaper than a Yanmar replacement and they would make hull speed piss. No water exhaust elbow nesasarry just heaps of fresh clean air and a set of noise cancelling head phones so you can still listen to that favourite sailing wanker on YouTube.
Select to expand quoteI need the engine to help me run into harbour without completely turning the boat upside down. Hate to repair broken windows and dry the boat inside.
Hiya Serb,
This is the part where we disagree. Your engine is not a 'get out of jail' card. Reducing sail is.
This is a good video of being pressed with too much sail area. This is an S&S 40 on flat water in a lake trying to downsize before a squall comes through.
At first they are doing good. The kite is down by 1.30. Then they slack off, taking till 3.30 to clear away the pole. At 4 mins they start to get the jib down. At 4.20 the squall hits and they are now in the poo.
What I want to draw your attention to is at 5.00 mins where they round up. They are pinned, he's lost his go forward and all effective steering. They need to reduce sail area to get her back on her feet.
At this point, lets decide to start the diesel. This brings to mind the following points:
-- How do I get to the start button?
-- Are there ropes overboard?
-- Is the cooling inlet still in the water?
-- Do I have steerage?
-- Will the prop be able to have enough drive to have any effect?
I would argue that starting the engine is the last thing I want to be doing, especially shorthanded. What I would definitely be doing is focusing on the need to reduce sail area and get control. which in nearly all cases is....REEF! Or as a bare minimum, dump.. and lash away...the main.
In most cases, by the 5.00 min mark in the vid your window is gone, you now have a marginal chance of getting your main reefed or down, its now a case of ride it out and hope you don't lose a window and fill the boat. Or lose someone over the side.
The solution has always been, reef early and often. I gotta be blunt mate, If you want to sail outside the heads it is incumbent on you to have these skills. That's a serious patch of water, no way would I attempt to sail through there if I couldn't reef my boat quickly and effectively.
You are the skipper, that comes with serious responsibility. When I'm not sure what I should do, I imagine standing in a dock at a coroners court explaining my actions on that day. If there were mechanisms available to me that were not used due to a lack of knowledge or training, and my only justification was "but I put a bigger engine in the boat"....how do you think that will be viewed?
Sort your diesel out and then please, please learn how to reef your boat effectively.
All the best to you Serb,
SB
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..I need the engine to help me run into harbour without completely turning the boat upside down. Hate to repair broken windows and dry the boat inside.
Hiya Serb,
This is the part where we disagree. Your engine is not a 'get out of jail' card. Reducing sail is.
This is a good video of being pressed with too much sail area. This is an S&S 40 on flat water in a lake trying to downsize before a squall comes through.
At first they are doing good. The kite is down by 1.30. Then they slack off, taking till 3.30 to clear away the pole. At 4 mins they start to get the jib down. At 4.20 the squall hits and they are now in the poo.
What I want to draw your attention to is at 5.00 mins where they round up. They are pinned, he's lost his go forward and all effective steering. They need to reduce sail area to get her back on her feet.
At this point, lets decide to start the diesel. This brings to mind the following points:
-- How do I get to the start button?
-- Are there ropes overboard?
-- Is the cooling inlet still in the water?
-- Do I have steerage?
-- Will the prop be able to have enough drive to have any effect?
I would argue that starting the engine is the last thing I want to be doing, especially shorthanded. What I would definitely be doing is focusing on the need to reduce sail area and get control. which in nearly all cases is....REEF! Or as a bare minimum, dump.. and lash away...the main.
In most cases, by the 5.00 min mark in the vid your window is gone, you now have a marginal chance of getting your main reefed or down, its now a case of ride it out and hope you don't lose a window and fill the boat. Or lose someone over the side.
The solution has always been, reef early and often. I gotta be blunt mate, If you want to sail outside the heads it is incumbent on you to have these skills. That's a serious patch of water, no way would I attempt to sail through there if I couldn't reef my boat quickly and effectively.
You are the skipper, that comes with serious responsibility. When I'm not sure what I should do, I imagine standing in a dock at a coroners court explaining my actions on that day. If there were mechanisms available to me that were not used due to a lack of knowledge or training, and my only justification was "but I put a bigger engine in the boat"....how do you think that will be viewed?
Sort your diesel out and then please, please learn how to reef your boat effectively.
All the best to you Serb,
SB
Btw, these guys went on to win the race so they are not just weekend warriors. Bad weather catches out good guys too.
Reef early, often.
The crew is slow. We would never win any race on Saturday if we behave like this. It takes me 30 sec to roll my Genoa in and 3 sec to ease the main.
what I am constantly referring here is a scenario when you have strong westerly wind and almost none sails but trying to get back through the heads as fastest as possible to avoid broken windows and boat full of water. When Genoa is rolled in and main is there just for decoration and it rains like there is no tomorrow plus on top of that waves are mad I need to turn the key on and run back!
You can agree on not but that is the reality! Going to do sailing without the engine especially outside the heads is not good at all. Most of the time I go out sailing to Dee Why and back without any need for the engine but once was very sexy I can tell you!
if I had someone else on the board Genoa could be changed for a storm jib and I could get away with it but by my self we need to stop dreaming here!
stay strong and sexy!
Select to expand quotewhat I am constantly referring here is a scenario when you have strong westerly wind and almost none sails but trying to get back through the heads as fastest as possible to avoid broken windows and boat full of water.
So am I, but I must be doing it badly.
I'll gracefully retire mate as I don't want to confuse the topic further,,
Wish you the best with sorting out the engine.
Cheers!
SB
You are being given information again by very experienced sailors. Who are taking their time to try and help you. Having to rely on your engine will only get you in trouble one day.
There are lots of books and videos about heavy weather sailing. I don't think start you engine and drop all the sails is in any of them!
Also imagine you have an accident in your boat when you knew the engine was not good. Explaining that to the police or rescue people! Imagine the rescue people have to save you because your engine stops AGAIN and their is a real accident but they are busy towing you. Stop using your boat until the engine is fixed properly would be a good start.
Have a look at Cammd's post recently in the "what did you do on your sailing boat today" area.
The Yankee stay sail is a great combination that allows you to reduce sail quickly and easily. Reduce sail, not completely get rid of sails.
Maybe a set up like this would be better for you sailing single handed.
Select to expand quotetarquin1 said..
Have a look at Cammd's post recently in the "what did you do on your sailing boat today" area.
The Yankee stay sail is a great combination that allows you to reduce sail quickly and easily. Reduce sail, not completely get rid of sails.
Maybe a set up like this would be better for you sailing single handed.
Your advice is on the money, however one needs to learn how to sail first.
Select to expand quotetarquin1 said..
You are being given information again by very experienced sailors. Who are taking their time to try and help you. Having to rely on your engine will only get you in trouble one day.
There are lots of books and videos about heavy weather sailing. I don't think start you engine and drop all the sails is in any of them!
Also imagine you have an accident in your boat when you knew the engine was not good. Explaining that to the police or rescue people! Imagine the rescue people have to save you because your engine stops AGAIN and their is a real accident but they are busy towing you. Stop using your boat until the engine is fixed properly would be a good start.Select to expand quoteUncleBob said..tarquin1 said..
Have a look at Cammd's post recently in the "what did you do on your sailing boat today" area.
The Yankee stay sail is a great combination that allows you to reduce sail quickly and easily. Reduce sail, not completely get rid of sails.
Maybe a set up like this would be better for you sailing single handed.
Your advice is on the money, however one needs to learn how to sail first.
Agreed
From your post, Monday 18th;
"Made a small silencer of break cleaner long cane with a few small holes to breath an old air filter sponge inside to cancel the noise so they don't complain ( especially wife??). "
Did you make an air cleaner or muffler, either way take it out of the system, Diesels like to breath and exhale, get rid of all the blockages, live with the noise, or use your sails.
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
Instead of sailing I am spending hours/ days trying to repair this engine. Getting sick of it!
Didn't even tried once to pull a spinnaker on my boat!!! Really getting sick of this. Boat is there to have fun and to enjoy the harbour and life not to suffer like this! Honestly..
Quote: "Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows
I think working on boats is part of the joy, I know I spend more time working on mine then sailing it, it was never purchased as a "project" boat, I think you could buy a brand new one and still spend more time working on them then sailing.
I have been watching the Tally Ho rebuild on youtube, someone asked Leo what will happen to his channel when he finishes the rebuild, he replied that a boat is never finished.
For myself I am looking forward to doing some extended cruising down the track, I am lead to believe that's really just doing repairs in different locations.
Most of us can probably recall our dismay when we first realised how much of our time and/or money was required to keep our pride and joy from deteriorating, let alone improving. If we still have our boats years later, it's because we learned to (mostly) enjoy the effort and/or spending.
And we've all been through the times when we curse the %$&* thing, but we keep coming back. I am still amazed at how much I enjoy contorting my aged body into the tiny engine space, getting covered in diesel and oil, to keep my 30+ year-old motor working well.
Serb, this is one of the most important"sailing" lessons you'll learn.
Cheers, Graeme
