Here is the way I sorted it out.

I slit 25nb pipe in half and welded some 10mm rod to it at 13 degrees. (The groove is to trap some araldite, when gluing them into the 10mm hole drilled into the wooden plug that was hammered 50mm into one end of the boom tube)
The curve around the mast is 1.6mm galv sheet 40mm wide and 150mm long


I used straightened out windsurfer booms.
This was done by slitting 300mm of pipe length ways. By using this in the vice it is a simple 5 min job to do both halves of a boom. It was made easier if the covering was left on till they were straight and then strip it off afterwards.


I made up the covers out of seat belt. The cord holds them tight onto the bracket.
Sorry bout the photo quality of my phone.

I'm a worried man, as we have had 11mm of rain so far and its still falling.
Pink Lake will be too damp I fear.
Cheers.

Thats a neat fix. No vacant car parks around or other possible venues just for the weekend? Where the rest of the festival being held perhaps? You can at least show them there?

I have my framework done and am ready for paint....I think.
Please take a look at my photos and let me know if there is anything I should change.

I really appreciate this forum and how helpful everyone is. I am humbled by your skills and knowledge.

Thanks, I will do that.

Basically I screwed up.
I was following the plan from Cisco. I made the front steering mechanism too long and I could not make the steering column line up with the contact patch. I will likely be sailing in a parking lot and in a cow pasture so the additional clearance would be good so I flipped the axles over and the steering lined up. I will be three inches higher. I hope this is not a big problem.

Brian

Bugger!!!!! I knew there was something I'd forgotten. Mast straps.

She is looking fantastic there sabydent.

Very nice work, bloke.

Hi Brian,
Unfortuneatly you have followed two of my variations from Paul's original plan that I should not have done.

One is the rear axle mounting that allows you to high/low/forward or rear set the axle centres. Not a big problem to revert to original just by making new extensions with the axles welded or bolted into the extension on the centre line of the extension.

The way you have made them like mine is handy though as it does give you three height settings for the rear of the yacht.

I thought I was being smart in getting the rear ground clearance as low as possible. For all but the smoothest of surfaces it turned out to be too low. However I have drilled my extensions twice at 90 degrees which allows me to set the height at high/low or standard. At standard height you can have a short or long wheel base.

No real need to change back now as it is something you can experiment with on different surfaces. One reason I did it that way was so that it would be simple to bolt or unbolt my threaded rod axles.

The other thing you have done is welded the seat back mount on the top of the rear X-member not the back.

The reason I did this was so that I could weld a link lug onto the back for the purpose of bolting another yacht without front fork onto it and do tandem sailing as they do with blokarts using the deuce bar. Great fun!!!

Because I put it on top and because my cut off wheel will only go to 45 degrees and not 60 degrees, my seat back angle is 45 degrees and not 30 degrees.





The photo of the back and the drawing on the bench show how you can set up for tandem sailing when you have built your second yacht.

Again something that is not critical and you could it change at a later date.

I would recommend you do not build your seat like I have using solid timber for the sides front and rear. It has made it a little heavier than it should be.

The shape of it is nice and simple but it does need some padding here and there. I just bought a patio seat cushion from K-Mart for $35 which makes it fairly comfy. The joinery work for the seat sides etc was a little bit tricky but it does look good all varnished up but as I said, too heavy.

My suggestion is to build it from the lightest ply possible (3mm ?) with 20 or 25mm pine battens on the outside top edges the use the stitch and glue method and fibreglass it with one or two layers of woven cloth.

You could even make it out of cardboard and glass that as Gizmo has suggested.





Cheers Cisco.

aus715 said...

Great work Sabydent.
You've given me motivation to get on with things.
What size chassis pipe did you end up using? Street Sign? What OD and WT?
Your wheels look great. What brand and size are they?

Thanks Aus 715. I ended up getting some pipe from a muffler shop. It is 2 1/2 inches. It was the only pipe I could find that would fit a mast. I got the wheels from Princess Auto, a discount auto supply house. They were $39 each.

You either gonna have to tell her tough luck" Missus"! or build yourself a workshop because if you think Land Yacht building is over?? THINK AGAIN! If you don't become obsessed with the Sport I will be very surprised.. Also if you think your Brain is Full you have a very small brain.. If So what fills the space around it?? A Vacuum???
Ron

That should do the trick nicely

Brian,
That looks great to me. Now instead of potentially tearing the Mast Step apart you will have to Screw the Spine off.. You will have to put on a bunch more weight and go out in a Tornado or Cyclone to do that kind of damage
Good Job,
Ron

It will be in teresting to see how exhaust tubeing fares, as a readily bendable pipe it shouldnt work , but let the experiment begin

aus715 said...

Exhaust pipe is a great idea, I think anyway.
2.5 inches = 63.5mm which is ample OD. The wall wouldn't be more than 2.5mm so it isn't all that heavy to pick up. What do you think it would weigh? I assume it was seamed pipe?

The pipe is seamed, it is 2mm thick. Don't know the weight.

Brian

landyacht said...

It will be in teresting to see how exhaust tubeing fares, as a readily bendable pipe it shouldnt work , but let the experiment begin

Both my minis have exhaust tube spines and mast steps
havent had a problem so far They dont have the reinforcing strap under the mast step either but probably should

I can't see why exhaust tube is a poor choice.

2mm wall is pretty thin but seems up to the task, given what Hiko has done. He would be the test case. When his stuff fails then start thinking a little thicker in the wall. But not much.

Unless you went to a Chromolloy steel pipe with all its flexural elastic properties (and cost) with an even thinner wall, 2mm is almost as thin as you would want to go in W.T. for exhaust tube.