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oceanfire
oceanfire
WA
718 posts
WA, 718 posts
20 Nov 2012 12:54pm
slammin said...

My fav beer is my homebrew Coopers Pale Ale. It's not quite as good as the real one but hell at $20 for 2&1/2 cases.


I prefer the 'international range' Canadian Blonde and Mexican Cerveza from Coopers home brew.
My two stock beers, always 7.5-8%

Home brew for the win!
Cassa
Cassa
WA
1305 posts
WA, 1305 posts
20 Nov 2012 1:10pm
oceanfire said...
slammin said...

My fav beer is my homebrew Coopers Pale Ale. It's not quite as good as the real one but hell at $20 for 2&1/2 cases.


I prefer the 'international range' Canadian Blonde and Mexican Cerveza from Coopers home brew.
My two stock beers, always 7.5-8%

Home brew for the win!


+ 1
myusernam
myusernam
QLD
6158 posts
QLD, 6158 posts
20 Nov 2012 3:41pm
funny thing about home brew is the guy that is used to it (the brewer) reckons it tastes great while everyone else thinks it tastes like pus!
Buster fin
Buster fin
WA
2598 posts
WA, 2598 posts
20 Nov 2012 1:51pm
Cassa said...
oceanfire said...
slammin said...

My fav beer is my homebrew Coopers Pale Ale. It's not quite as good as the real one but hell at $20 for 2&1/2 cases.


I prefer the 'international range' Canadian Blonde and Mexican Cerveza from Coopers home brew.
My two stock beers, always 7.5-8%

Home brew for the win!


+ 1


^^^^Wot day sed!
Buster fin
Buster fin
WA
2598 posts
WA, 2598 posts
20 Nov 2012 1:52pm
myusernam said...
funny thing about home brew is the guy that is used to it (the brewer) reckons it tastes great while everyone else thinks it tastes like pus!


^^^Wot he sed too[}:)]
oceanfire
oceanfire
WA
718 posts
WA, 718 posts
20 Nov 2012 2:21pm
myusernam said...
funny thing about home brew is the guy that is used to it (the brewer) reckons it tastes great while everyone else thinks it tastes like pus!


Not all home-brewers are created equal, there's definitely a craft to it, and you have to know what you're doing; unfortunately for you you've only tried from the wrong home brewer/s.

I know very honest people who don't hesitate to tell me if it's ****e.
I run out way too early due to demand.
slammin
slammin
QLD
998 posts
QLD, 998 posts
20 Nov 2012 7:54pm
oceanfire said...
myusernam said...
funny thing about home brew is the guy that is used to it (the brewer) reckons it tastes great while everyone else thinks it tastes like pus!


Not all home-brewers are created equal, there's definitely a craft to it, and you have to know what you're doing; unfortunately for you you've only tried from the wrong home brewer/s.

I know very honest people who don't hesitate to tell me if it's ****e.
I run out way too early due to demand.




Ditto here, it's simple hygiene and an ability to follow instructions. I have friends and work mates wanting to buy the stuff. I was slightly tempted by the $'s but,No Copperhead Rd arrest for me thanks copper![}:)]

I've tried the Cerveza and Blonde and I agree they are a top brew BUT out of the 3 Pale Ale rocks the hardest.
smicko
smicko
WA
2503 posts
WA, 2503 posts
20 Nov 2012 6:43pm
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.
Craig66
Craig66
NSW
2466 posts
NSW, 2466 posts
20 Nov 2012 10:21pm
the beer is not to blame..........

Important info....please take the time to read.

Don't wash your hair in the shower!!!



It's so good to finally get a health warning that is useful!!!

INVOLVES THE SHAMPOO WHEN IT RUNS DOWN YOUR BODY WHEN YOU SHOWER WITH IT

WARNING TO US ALL!!!

I don't know WHY I didn't figure this out sooner!
I use shampoo in the shower!
When I wash my hair, the shampoo runs down my whole body, and printed very
clearly on the shampoo label is this warning,

"FOR EXTRA BODY AND VOLUME."

No wonder I have been gaining weight!
Well! I got rid of that shampoo and I am going to start showering
with Dawn dishwashing soap instead.
Its label reads,
"DISSOLVES FAT THAT IS OTHERWISE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE."

Problem solved!

If I don't answer the phone I'll be in the shower!

Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 10:52am
Sailhack said...
You're better off sticking with a quality beer like vale ale or pintail ale...just don't quaff heaps of it.

Have had quite a few discussions with some mates about trying to brew a quality, full-flavoured mid to light beer.


Might have to make it my next brew day, the hard bit will be getting any body into the beer.

Might go for a highly hopped red monster at about 4% with some crystal 120, Amber and a thouch of black malt!! Gotta love hops and have a fresh delivery in the freezer

Only problem with brewing a beer is the amount you drink whilst you brew it. You can drink a lot in the 6 to 8 hrs it takes to do an all grain brew. But it's a problem I'm happy to live with

PS +1 For the pintail pale ale, she's a good beer!
Chris6791
Chris6791
WA
3271 posts
WA, 3271 posts
21 Nov 2012 8:36am
^^^I tend to stay off the beers when brewing, I developed a bad habit of leaving taps open and ingredients out.
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 11:48am
^^^ Know what you mean there. I try to get brewing nice and early in the morning and leave the drinking till later in the day, but when you have a few mates around for the brew day she goes pear shaped!
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 1:07pm
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.
oceanfire
oceanfire
WA
718 posts
WA, 718 posts
21 Nov 2012 10:29am
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.
Sailhack
Sailhack
VIC
5000 posts
VIC, 5000 posts
21 Nov 2012 1:42pm
^^^ Beer Nerds!

...the saviours of our generation!
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 2:09pm
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8
oceanfire
oceanfire
WA
718 posts
WA, 718 posts
21 Nov 2012 11:29am
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8



Ah, very interesting.
The biggest issue I can see is if I have enough patience to wait that long.
I guess two brews going at staggered intervals is the answer
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 3:26pm
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8



Ah, very interesting.
The biggest issue I can see is if I have enough patience to wait that long.
I guess two brews going at staggered intervals is the answer


Have to agree there but it's worth the wait

What type of brewing do you do? Kit, Partial or All Grain
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 3:32pm
Sailhack said...
^^^ Beer Nerds!

...the saviours of our generation!


No more brew for you
evlPanda
evlPanda
NSW
9207 posts
NSW, 9207 posts
21 Nov 2012 3:38pm
Completely not what you are looking for, but awesome nonetheless. I've overlooked the giant cans for too long. Tastes better.



It's about a 6 pack worth. Put back in fridge after pouring. It really does taste better (and not compared to that brewed under license in Australia stuff).
Chris6791
Chris6791
WA
3271 posts
WA, 3271 posts
21 Nov 2012 1:56pm
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8



Ah, very interesting.
The biggest issue I can see is if I have enough patience to wait that long.
I guess two brews going at staggered intervals is the answer


++ to all the above, sanitation, temp control and patience (the latter is the hardest).

If you have time and patience, leave it in the FV for a week after achieving a stable SG as mentioned above, if you are really keen then put the whole FV in a fridge and chill for another week, then bottle, helps clear it up even more. THe only prob is that it ties up your FV for 3-4 weeks.
stuk
stuk
NSW
894 posts
NSW, 894 posts
21 Nov 2012 4:59pm
Just back from couple of weeks in Thailand, the local Chang beer is up there at 6.2% alco and the stubbies are 640ml. Couple of those and your gonski.
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
21 Nov 2012 5:15pm
Chris6791 said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8



Ah, very interesting.
The biggest issue I can see is if I have enough patience to wait that long.
I guess two brews going at staggered intervals is the answer


++ to all the above, sanitation, temp control and patience (the latter is the hardest).

If you have time and patience, leave it in the FV for a week after achieving a stable SG as mentioned above, if you are really keen then put the whole FV in a fridge and chill for another week, then bottle, helps clear it up even more. THe only prob is that it ties up your FV for 3-4 weeks.



Dead rite, cold conditioning is good also, but the patience side of things gets me every time

About 1 month from brew day to sample time is about all I can stand (should be more like two months though!)

oceanfire
oceanfire
WA
718 posts
WA, 718 posts
22 Nov 2012 9:44am
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8



Ah, very interesting.
The biggest issue I can see is if I have enough patience to wait that long.
I guess two brews going at staggered intervals is the answer


Have to agree there but it's worth the wait

What type of brewing do you do? Kit, Partial or All Grain


I've been kit brewing for a long time now, I'm keen on learning and had started doing some homework on full grain, but my living arrangements aren't really conducive to it at the moment, so I've been playing with different sugar type ratios with my standard brews.
AquaPlow
AquaPlow
QLD
1066 posts
QLD, 1066 posts
22 Nov 2012 12:26pm
This is going back awhile - dad was the brewmaster I matured into the permanent taster.
We normally had two brews o/lapping Lager and a bitter. The bit which P'..d me off was the sterilising..
The solution bought a few plastic beer barrels 1/4 ferkin size (2 ferkins = a barrel I think) they had a tap slightly up from the bottom - with the lager you could put a sparklet cartidge in lid section.
Worked a treat only had to sterilise the barrel. But - we lived in UK and the bitter smacked at 56 Farenheit (bloody warm - I know ) so would need to get a bit of space in the beer fridge over here.

On topic - Float -- maaaate - easy solution 3 days on 4 days off. Loved the Coopers in Adelaide - not so good else where - current fattener of choice is BLUE SKY pilsner in a word - CRISP

Marketing genius at play - saw some cider called 'Dirty Granny' (5.6%??) might wrap some up for a cringle - and stand back[}:)] -- some of the cider round Taunton in Somerset (straight from the farm gate) would have bits still doing laps but a couple of pints and U did not care what U where wearing & as for 301 and down - no chance - even shove haypenny (spelling??) (half penny) got a bit tragic - skate board back to bed was good though.

Cheers

AP
Jefin
Jefin
VIC
60 posts
VIC, 60 posts
22 Nov 2012 3:55pm
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
oceanfire said...
Jefin said...
smicko said...
Hygiene is the key to any ferment, ya get funky yeast in there and ya get funky aromas and flavour compounds. Prep as you would for open heart surgery and then clean it all again, just to be sure.


+1 to this but temprature control and correct yeast pitch rate is just as important.

Flavour compounds/esters are also developed by stressed yeast (which is desirable in some cases). You can get the sanitisation 100% rite just to find a nice funk in your beer due to the yeasty boy's having a bit of trouble.

Personally I don't stress to much about sanitisation, sure I make sure everything is cleaned/sanitised really well but the biggest thing I find is if you have a good healthy & active yeast sample go into the brew you'll be rite. Don't just sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, rehydrate it in some sterilised water or make a yeast starter for beers with an SG over 1060 (Always make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast).

Keep the temp rite for the duration of the ferment and leave the beer on the yeast cake for a week after ferment is complete so yeast can clean up after itself. Then you'll usualy end up with a decent beer.



Yes to all of this.

However I have to ask about leaving the beer for an extra week after fermentation is complete?
You obviously have found no problems with this/ beer going off etc?
What do you mean by the yeast cleaning up after itself?
Getting rid of the cloudiness?

My beers all pour very clear, unless I do two tips of the bottle, but even then it's not so bad, and the longer I leave the brew in bottle, the harder the sediment gets on the bottom, meaning clearer beer.

I'm paranoid, and as soon as the fermentation is complete and the SG is stable for 24hours, I like to bottle as soon as possible.


I assume you are worried about autolysis? Don't stress about it you can happly leave a beer on the yeast cake for a week or two, even longer (check the link below).

The cleanup is partially for clarification of the beer, but some of the yeast does not become dormant it will actually remove some of the byproducts created by the primary ferment and convert some of the heavier sugars. If you remove beer from the cake too early this process doesn't happen.

howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/secondary-or-conditioning-phase

www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23392&start=8



Ah, very interesting.
The biggest issue I can see is if I have enough patience to wait that long.
I guess two brews going at staggered intervals is the answer


Have to agree there but it's worth the wait

What type of brewing do you do? Kit, Partial or All Grain


I've been kit brewing for a long time now, I'm keen on learning and had started doing some homework on full grain, but my living arrangements aren't really conducive to it at the moment, so I've been playing with different sugar type ratios with my standard brews.



Fair enough, if room is an issue for you look into Brew In a Bag (BIAB). Is a good way to get into all grain brewing (thats how I brew), it doesn't have the same capabilities of a 3 vessel system ie batch size, efficiency etc. But it is a fantastic way to start.

I have an old 50l keg with the top cut off, a tweaked 3 ring burner a cake rack and a biab bag. The whole setup is pretty agricultural but who cares aslong as you make a beer you enjoy

Check out you tube for info on it if you get keen.
myusernam
myusernam
QLD
6158 posts
QLD, 6158 posts
22 Nov 2012 3:16pm
every home brewer I know drinks too much! (I drink too much) but if I home brewed I'd be worse
slammin
slammin
QLD
998 posts
QLD, 998 posts
22 Nov 2012 6:02pm
myusernam said...
every home brewer I know drinks too much! (I drink too much) but if I home brewed I'd be worse


Yep ^^

Self control is a fantastic thing.... if you have it. Most of my mates that gave up homebrew simply because they got fat. They suddenly had all the beer they could drink and they had no reason not to have a beer.

My self control is dictated by the days of the week Fri and Sat good to go. Mebbee if friends are over on a Thurs, a couple only, "just to be polite" of course.

I lived out remote for 10 years and to be honest while we had a few too many when we did hit town I didn't really notice or mind being alcohol free. Some of the stints where for 3mths so when I did have a 6pack I was done.

FWIW I do think think I drink more now because of the constant bombardment of advertising and a bottleshop/pup on every corner.
Pitbull
Pitbull
WA
1267 posts
WA, 1267 posts
22 Nov 2012 5:33pm
myusernam said...
every home brewer I know drinks too much! (I drink too much) but if I home brewed I'd be worse


CHEERS!
whyner
whyner
NSW
762 posts
NSW, 762 posts
22 Nov 2012 11:30pm


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