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Reply in Topic: Harness line length
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
19 May 2026 10:49pm
Use hip harness. Convert from waist harness to hip by addimg non-stretch rope between your legs. This is when you need the longer harness lines. When the hook is lowered. No compromize. Hook lower than seat harness.

Be bold. Dont listen to any pro (except Hayathi Ishii) or to anyone on this forum. Everything they know is last-year. Its amazing really that you guys havent figured it out yet. Makes all windsurfing eqipment better.
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
19 May 2026 10:43pm
The wave run up the river? Why are you sailing on a river? Like the Gorge?
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
8 May 2026 9:11pm
duzzi said..



TWCustom said..





duzzi said..







TWCustom said..
...

About the hip-harness. It costs nothing and the patent is there just to stop industry stealing it. So images of converted old harnesses on our old website does make me loose any sleep. All you need is a little rope and the longest harness lines you can find. Your old board and rig really improves. And remember, seat harnesses are really bad. The hook is actually still to high. It should point exactly to Trochanter Major. Google it and good luck.















A bit more info? Maybe it has already been posted but I cannot find it. What do you mean by it costs nothing and you just need a little rope?



















Well, rope is the only cost if you have a waist harness already that widens to you hip.






great, but maybe you can explain how it works? And how a regular harness can be modified? I can only find the pdf of the untranslated patent on your web site ...



>> maybe you can explain how it works?I cannot add images but her goes:

Yes, punch two holes lower back of a convex traditional waist harness , 4-5 fingers apart and two holes on the powerbelt. Use a downhaul rope through the holes in a figure of 8, with a knot or som ducktape between your legs. Rope is best because you actually do not want flexibility, believe it or not. You can punch another four holes to connect your hook to the powerbelt. The idiots designing harnesses still haven't figured this out yet and are selling you broad kiting hooks. Stay far away from those, use traditional skinny hooks, so you can bend over :) I even cut away fabrics on the lower sides to give my legs more freedom. If you are 175cm, use 34" lines. Above, use 26" etc...
Benefits:

The hipharness directs power directly to your upper femur (Trochanter Mayor) so load is not transferred down through your back into your legs. You are a truss system where you know save a joint by removing a beam and reducing two joint in this system to one. So power is transferred directly to your board and the board feels wider and more effective energy transfer from your rig. This is an advantage for shorter sailors. (I actuall dont give shXX about you longer guys).

Your hip is the hardest part of your body. Using a convex harness that only goes around your body, a line through Trochanter major, makes the harness kind of disappear. More free.

Lots of other stuff: hooked in while over white water, higher jumps, helth benefits etc etc. Fun fact here is that kiropractors and such are the last to understand its benefits. ;)

This took me longer to write than a convertion takes for you. So I expect that everyone reading this will have go. Remember do not let it slip over Trochanter major so tighten the ropes between your legs. And please refrain from inventing lots of arguments until you tries it.
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
4 May 2026 4:46am
duzzi said..


TWCustom said..
...

About the hip-harness. It costs nothing and the patent is there just to stop industry stealing it. So images of converted old harnesses on our old website does make me loose any sleep. All you need is a little rope and the longest harness lines you can find. Your old board and rig really improves. And remember, seat harnesses are really bad. The hook is actually still to high. It should point exactly to Trochanter Major. Google it and good luck.





A bit more info? Maybe it has already been posted but I cannot find it. What do you mean by it costs nothing and you just need a little rope?









Well, rope is the only cost if you have a waist harness already that widens to you hip.
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
30 Apr 2026 11:14pm
lemat said..

TWCustom said..
A new board from us costs about 3200 USD. My idea is that a rich guy can purchase a new one when he wants by returning the old one and pay half price for the new board. Then we fix the old board and sell it for half price.

We can do this since carbon repairable an infinite number of times and the breathable foam always stays light. 2-300g extra for an 85L board when it is repaired the first time. Subsequent repairs/accidents ads no more weight in the foam. So the board lives forever. This is not some plan, we are doing it now.

For everyone else with traditional foam boards I suggest you drill holes. It is real easy and all boards both production and custom boards are over-engineered. Remember the holes are there also to make it possible at all to dry up the traditional foam. If you can save 200g, you want it. Strip paint and sand to carbon. Use epoxy+carbon powder instead. That is 150g. Replace all pads. That saves 100g. Use FCS II Skindog 18cm (7 inch) aircore fins always. They are US and superlight. If you can, replace thrusters with FCS/Future boxes. The white ones they are 20g and use aircore fins her too. Never use 4 fins. The FCS/Future box (yes two-brands-in-one) are strengthened with to 10mm divinicell plates, maybe 8cm across. These get very strong when glued in with microspheres reaching the top deck.

About the hip-harness. It costs nothing and the patent is there just to stop industry stealing it. So images of converted old harnesses on our old website does make me loose any sleep. All you need is a little rope and the longest harness lines you can find. Your old board and rig really improves. And remember, seat harnesses are really bad. The hook is actually still to high. It should point exactly to Trochanter Major. Google it and good luck.

We make light boards and go out with info so as to kill windfoiling and kiting. We really don't like them on our waves.

enjoy
// Thomas - from the other side



You say brethable foam because you use ultralight really open between cells eps ?

Well its not really open between the cells. Cells are just permeable and I can draw air or blow air from one airvent to another. We buy foam from VARTDAL in Norway, formerly known as GLAVA. I called the new owner and told him about our project. We bought our first batch from GLAVA. Four levels beneath the new owner finally gave me three blocks to a reasonable price because of the top guy. I reckon we need isolation in our houses and under roads a bit more than you do Down under but if you start investigating you perhaps will find the foam you want in Australia. 12.1kg/m3 density. It really changes everything under your feet and you feel like 16 years old again.
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
30 Apr 2026 8:31am
A new board from us costs about 3200 USD. My idea is that a rich guy can purchase a new one when he wants by returning the old one and pay half price for the new board. Then we fix the old board and sell it for half price.

We can do this since carbon repairable an infinite number of times and the breathable foam always stays light. 2-300g extra for an 85L board when it is repaired the first time. Subsequent repairs/accidents ads no more weight in the foam. So the board lives forever. This is not some plan, we are doing it now.

For everyone else with traditional foam boards I suggest you drill holes. It is real easy and all boards both production and custom boards are over-engineered. Remember the holes are there also to make it possible at all to dry up the traditional foam. If you can save 200g, you want it. Strip paint and sand to carbon. Use epoxy+carbon powder instead. That is 150g. Replace all pads. That saves 100g. Use FCS II Skindog 18cm (7 inch) aircore fins always. They are US and superlight. If you can, replace thrusters with FCS/Future boxes. The white ones they are 20g and use aircore fins her too. Never use 4 fins. The FCS/Future box (yes two-brands-in-one) are strengthened with to 10mm divinicell plates, maybe 8cm across. These get very strong when glued in with microspheres reaching the top deck.

About the hip-harness. It costs nothing and the patent is there just to stop industry stealing it. So images of converted old harnesses on our old website does make me loose any sleep. All you need is a little rope and the longest harness lines you can find. Your old board and rig really improves. And remember, seat harnesses are really bad. The hook is actually still to high. It should point exactly to Trochanter Major. Google it and good luck.

We make light boards and go out with info so as to kill windfoiling and kiting. We really don't like them on our waves.

enjoy
// Thomas - from the other side
TWCustom
TWCustom
7 posts
7 posts
23 Apr 2026 11:18pm
We use 12.1kg/m3 foam. Lets water out and easy to check if air tight. Cylinder holes in standard boards makes it possible to dry the board (and save weight). Doing that to three Pyramids now. One is custom "superlight" and should get back to factory condition, but lighter.
Return To Classic site 😭
Or... let us know if a problem, so we can tweak! 😅