You are absolutely correct, it is a version of their sandwich construction they have been using for windsurfing boards, but weight optimized for winging. At least that's what I've been told when I ordered the boards.

^^^ Because

(1) I have tried every method you can think of and we never get it all out in a reasonable timeframe as the interstitial spaces in EPS are so good at holding it by capillary action

(2) if we do pull enough vacuum to cause the water to boil off, either
(a) too much vac and implodes the board
(b) enough vac but at a temp that softens the epoxy (so gets the above result anyway)

You cannot out enough vac on a board to reliably get water out at normal temps, without crushing the board. You can do localised vac only on a crack / hole and accelerate getting water out slightly - but no better than gravity does if that water is localised and there is a decent hole.
I get 100ml out of a damaged area in one day with a wick, or a few hours with a complicated vac setup and having to risk my pump.

You can apply vac at one end and hole in the other, as long as dry air is coming in, but you take forever and vac pumps don;t like running for a long time at very low vac levels. Plus the air takes the efficient route thru the non waterlogged bit straight up the middle and really does not help a lot.
You still don't get it all out.

The only option is keep damaged side down, make hole bigger, stuff a wick in it (paper towel etc) to help draw it out and put in in the sun and some breeze.

When boards have a number of holes and / or water has been allowed the spread over time, you simply cannot get it all out. Vacuum or not. I have 12 month duration projects that are testament to this and my workshop is 35-45degC most of summer.

I dont' mean to be rude - but your engineering material that needs drying - wrap it in a hard shell, give yourself a 1/4" hole and limit vac to about -10psi absolute max, limit temp to 50C
You overnight looks like a month. and incomplete result.

Mark _australia said..
^^^ Because

(1) I have tried every method you can think of and we never get it all out in a reasonable timeframe as the interstitial spaces in EPS are so good at holding it by capillary action

(2) if we do pull enough vacuum to cause the water to boil off, either
(a) too much vac and implodes the board
(b) enough vac but at a temp that softens the epoxy (so gets the above result anyway)

You cannot out enough vac on a board to reliably get water out at normal temps, without crushing the board. You can do localised vac only on a crack / hole and accelerate getting water out slightly - but no better than gravity does if that water is localised and there is a decent hole.
I get 100ml out of a damaged area in one day with a wick, or a few hours with a complicated vac setup and having to risk my pump.

You can apply vac at one end and hole in the other, as long as dry air is coming in, but you take forever and vac pumps don;t like running for a long time at very low vac levels. Plus the air takes the efficient route thru the non waterlogged bit straight up the middle and really does not help a lot.
You still don't get it all out.

The only option is keep damaged side down, make hole bigger, stuff a wick in it (paper towel etc) to help draw it out and put in in the sun and some breeze.

When boards have a number of holes and / or water has been allowed the spread over time, you simply cannot get it all out. Vacuum or not. I have 12 month duration projects that are testament to this and my workshop is 35-45degC most of summer.

I dont' mean to be rude - but your engineering material that needs drying - wrap it in a hard shell, give yourself a 1/4" hole and limit vac to about -10psi absolute max, limit temp to 50C
You overnight looks like a month. and incomplete result.

Boardlady was teaching this decades ago.

You need heat and forced dry air ventilation inside the board .Not vacuum.

I do it with an tiny,cheapo acuarium pump,two holes top and bottom.Plug pump in upper hole.Put board in warm place.
Water will come out by gravity first,then as water vapour.
Bigger pump will be faster, but running an oil lubed vac pump for days is not brilliant IMHO.


You can remove pretty much all the water,a few grams may remain and the salt stays of course.

XPS in Appletree ...?
hollow is great but be prepared to pay I reckon .

So the construction is the same as the Patrik board? You can toss it around and shouldn't be damaged?

Mark _australia said..
I would also like to know as they don't say on their website. Lots of marketing BS words but don't tell us how it's done. however surely there's some involvement from Patrik - I can't see a big windsurf company just taking another ones model name lol (Airinside)

I'd like to know if it's still honeycomb but given they say autoclaved it would have to be .. Core foams won't like 170c

regardkess- if Flikka and/or Patrik are into it, it will be very very good

At $4k I assume its filled with Helium...

Heat molded PVC foam perhaps?

It's a totally different construction. It's far harder. Needs complex moulds and more expensive materials, plus autoclave.
it's like comparing how you paint your house vs oven baked 2pack spray job on your car.

ZeroVix said..
So the construction is the same as the Patrik board? You can toss it around and shouldn't be damaged?

At least, from the point of view of the valve, the board is full of air