one of my slalom board designs did over 40knots in open water and went round corners pretty quick too.

really what made it fast was the guy sailing it. doubt i coulda done that speed on it.

Fast is a board that works for you, that you can push to the limit with confidence. Just because someone else can go fast on x brand is only an indication of its potential. If there isn't a level of comfort and confidence it won't be fast for you. I can't sail one brand as they just don't fit me even though they are fast.

Mark, if it's an old slalom board, yes play with the rails. Some really fast modern speed boards have plenty of tuck forward of the front strap, it's only the rails behind the front strap that need to be square.
What helps make a slalom board turn, is the rocker between the rear centre line and the rail adjacent to the front strap, quite often this ends up negative. Playing with the cutouts could slow you down, but filling them in with rocker could help you turn. As I understand it, the cutouts reduce the lift behind the rider, enabling positive angle of attack, but a spiral V there should have a similar effect, but add a little more surface area.

For chop V helps, but reduces lift and adds more surface area. I think a wide board and big fin maybe the trick, it lets you fly across the top more, not that I'm any good at that trick, but I've watched people who are, and that's what they reckon.

Mark _australia said..
Thanks Decrepit

I'm just looking for ideas as I have a very fast open water slalom design and want to know in general terms how to detune it slightly for (1) most people and (2) open ocean with bigger chop

So I'm thinking

a smidge - couple mm -more rail tuck in midsection

tiny bit more vee to about just behind front foot

reduce cutouts by about 10%

Mark, I have. a1990 something WindTech and have thought about giving it a tweak in the rails so I'm interested to see your project unfold and final paint job too. Lol

Hi Mark. The RRD firestorm V2 111 that I had was wickedly fast on the ocean and chop at safety bay warnbro sound. ( not the pond) and with severne turbo sails could keep up with or pass most people on full race kit. The following version that was 25% ( according to RRD) faster was crap on the ocean and gybed like a dog. Also the V1 Patrik slalom boards are great on the ocean and chop. I got the fastest hour on ka72 kingdoms for Carlisle st safety bay in 30 + knot conditions last summer on the 92litre. If you could get to look at either of them it should give you some Ideas for a good ocean board.
I agree for us lesser than athlete's comfort = speed in not so perfect conditions.

Fast in open ocean conditions.
Fast Forwad with Robbie Naish sailing off Maleakana Beach on Oahu early '90's.
Comfortable like fast freeride.
We'd sail from 2 miles N Diamond Head 17 miles E to within sight of Molokai and back in just over 2 hours.

I've bought at least 30 G-10 fins from 5 different companies.
Horizontal delams start within 20 uses, at the base of the fin where it pots into the finhead..US, Power, Meritex, Tuttle, Trim, Conic, DeepTuttle, don't matter.
That means they're weakening by the 15th day.
I've also spent 7 odd years hanging around Pro riders and even conversing with a few.
And working at windsurf shops for my first 23 years of windsurfing.
And attending the AWIA tradeshows for 15 years.

LeeD said..
Fast forward is a Naish video and really the only one that shows fast windsurfing in open ocean conditions..
I won't mention circumstances because adding names would offend you.
Yes, I was there.

Fast Forward is a NeilPryde video. Adding names: Haywood, Bringdal, Hamilton etc etc.
No I wasn't there ...

Maybe RIP?
The video from early 90's, pink Gaastra and white 8'10" Iggy shaped slalom.

LeeD, adding names doesnt worry me. But OP wants input on BOARD DESIGN. Just sayin.....

Board design.
You guys do know that Robbie and some of the old guys never really embraced the new slalom designs..from late 80's to present.
He favored easier riding almost stretched and flattened wave shapes over boxy railed and stubbly shaped wide disks...this from then to now.
That IS board design.
He passes on the down hard railed shapes like HyPerTech or JP's, or even Energy.
He always favored slightly longer flats underfoot but balanced it with softer ticked thinner rails.
And how long it took to embrace cutouts?
Because he tested in rougher condition including open ocean sailing.
Which is why I used HIM as an example of a fast open ocean board designer.

Nothing worse than name dropping when you can't even spell the name right

Mark _australia said..
Yeah and nobody can gybe them Lee, and if they were better than what we have now I'd say some pro would be using one on tour. .... so lets stay on topic? Yes some 10 y/o boards feel nicer to some people but I doubt anyone finds a 30 y/o board as fast AND as comfy in chop AND as easy to gybe as modern designs.

The question is for a given fast board, what is the best change to tame it in chop and make it easier to gybe - without losing too much speed. That is VERY difficult.

it really does depends on board volume distribution and what volume board you are designing.

the rails are where you can influence the volume of a board. you can easily add or lose 10lt

how much volume you do or dont have in the rails has a direct influence on gybing. after that is the shape.

i don't think there is a straight answer as you need to build a board amd test it. even construction comes into play.

just looking around at the variation of shapes on the market shows there are many ways to solve the problem.

Simple answer...friendly slalom or fast freeride.
Tabou or Exocet friendly slaloms.
Everyone makes a fast freeride.

mr love said..
Mark...Give me a yell, I am happy to help you out with my 2c.

Having used Martin's board, it's perfect for what you have in mind Mark.