Haircut,
With the 20d I have the basic lense which goes to 300 (don't feel like running back to check exact details)
but really really want a 4 or 500. To take shots in the snow, and better surfing, windsurfin, kiting shots. Had a look today and the Canon 100-400 with image stabiliser is over 2k and the Sigma 50-500 was $1439. I'm not rich (not working for 3 weeks, then low pay anyway) but I do need a better lense. Is the Sigma good enough?
Cheers,
Susie

Yeah, I want that one as well. both on my wish list. But I might have to settle for the 50-500 Sigma. And a better tripod. So how come Haircut said the lense was $1250???

btw - it's worth trying sigma's lenses in the shop because there seems to be variations in the characteristics between lenses of the same model. this happens with canon too, but apparently more common with sigma

positive review for the 50-500 here

http://www.vividlight.com/Articles/413.htm

the one i tried was soft on the left zoomed out between 50 and about 100

18mm


24mm


50mm


it's unfortunate that canon don't have a 18-100 L f4-ish stabilised which is why i use the sigma. not a heap of difference between 18 and 24, but makes a difference shooting indoors

Go tha Canon, while ever you stay with Canon bodies you will have the lense. I know guys that invested big $$$ in lenses and have had them through 3 or 4 body changes. Thay have always said to me to invest more here

hi guys,

tried the gear out properly for the first time yesterday.

(40d)
set to Av
shutter speed was 1/1500+
iso 200-400

stumbled across a bit of an issue.

i found when the target was filling the view finder autofocus worked really well, images were sharp etc.

however, when the lens was at max zoom and the target was still a long way off the autofocus started wandering around and usually focussed the wrong area.

so i guess to keep on the Av track before going to Tv it may be possible to do the following. what's the verdict?

a couple of options i am thinking of are

1. set a larger depth of field. ie F8-f32

2. force the AF point to centre ignoring the other areas of the frame.

my preference would be to use the later as i can still keep the f/number as low as possible cause that is the effect i am playing with.

this was only a problem when the subject was further out than the zoom could handle, (300mm). when the subject filled the viewfinder the 9 point AF worked a treat.

cheers

Susie said...

Yeah, I want that one as well. both on my wish list. But I might have to settle for the 50-500 Sigma. And a better tripod. So how come Haircut said the lense was $1250???

did you know you can buy it from the same store as the canon stuff?

https://www.camerasdirect.com.au/index.php/lenses/sigma-lenses/sigma-telephoto-zoom-lenses/sigma-50-500mm-f4-6.3-ex-dg-apo-hsm-for-canon-eos.html

again - IMO image stabilisation is worth the extra dosh at 400 or 500mm, even tripod mounted, because shooting pix in strong wind still tends to move the gear around a bit

even the 2 L lenses i got will not focus when fully zoomed in if the target is too far out of focus to begin with - this usually requires me to quickly zoom out a bit, focus, then zoom back in again. it's not too much of an issue really

closing the iris down to f8 to f12 does sharpen the image somewhat on most lenses, but closing it even further starts to soften it again. The average sweetspot is about f8

It's actually more around 5.6 for most cheap lenses ... although on a 1.6 crop factor sensor camera this has less meaning than it has on a full frame camera.

stehsegler said...

closing the iris down to f8 to f12 does sharpen the image somewhat on most lenses, but closing it even further starts to soften it again. The average sweetspot is about f8

It's actually more around 5.6 for most cheap lenses ... although on a 1.6 crop factor sensor camera this has less meaning than it has on a full frame camera.

the forums i've been trolling through seem to say exactly that. the lens i have when compared with price works very well "for what it is" when the aperture is kept to F4/5.6, smaller apertures start to lose crispness.

Hi Haircut,

Howdy stehsegler. glad u are using that combo as when i was buying a tele lens i was initially going to buy the 70-200 2.8 IS + 1.4 combination, and I'm still considering the lens on it's own without the converter, so I'm after as much feedback on it as I can get.

From my experience the 70-200 2.8, 2.8 IS and 4.0 are all pretty much on par. I have both the 2.8 and 2.8 IS. I feel the 2.8 has a slightly better image quality than the 2.8 IS. I haven't sold the 2.8 (non-IS) yet because I always find it is a nice lens to take traveling as it's quite a bit lighter than the IS version. I guess if you really want to save the money and don't need the extra two stops the 4.0 would do just fine.

However, I don't think using the 1.4 extender is worth combining with the 4.0. As for the other combos... you can see a difference in quality if you put the images next to each other. From my experience you really want to make sure you get the exposure within half a stop or quality will really suffer.

Overall, I have used both the 1.4 and 2.0 extender. Forget the 2.0 extender, it might be good for web resolution photos but anything above that and the images look real bad. The 1.4 works really well with the 70-200 2.8 and ok with the 500 f4 ... good enough that I will use it and get the shot rather than not using it and missing out. As for focusing speed, I can't speak for the 40D as I haven't used that combo yet but on the 5D, 1D Mark II and 1D Mark III it all works without a hitch.

One thing to consider when using a 1.4 extender on a 500mm lens is that you are starting to pick up quite a bit of ocean haze in the image. Think of it as the lens "compressing" multiple layers of air and hence picking up any moisture evaporating from the ocean. It's more prevalent at certain angles to the sun and during the mid day hours especially when the wind is light.

FYI, you can order lenses from either Adorama or BH Photo and Video in New York US. Both are pretty large reputable retails shifting large quantities of pro Canon gear. Prices are really good with the current value of the Australian dollar and warranty is usually honored locally... not that I have ever had to make use of warranty on L level lenses.

hope that helps.

hi haircut,

i can't see anything at the top of the viewfinder.

is it possible your camera is in mirror lockup mode? i read something in the manual about the mirror staying up until the shutter is pressed when in this mode?

cheers.

Haircut said...

no it's not, but thanks alot for checking for me

it is the black sponge in the orange cirlce i can see. it mustn't be glued on in quite the right spot. if i push it with a toothpick it gets it out of view. i'm tempted to tear it off, but not sure if it wipes the mirror, focus pane, or something else?

What model canon? I will see if I can get you a service manual if you want. From memory that foam is only a stop for the mirror as it lifts up
** edit- gee if i had looked at the pic I would have seen lol. Would you like a service manual if I can get one?

is the flap folded up in yours?

any chance you could post a pic of it gesty?

Thanks dude

What model canon? I will see if I can get you a service manual if you want. From memory that foam is only a stop for the mirror as it lifts up
** edit- gee if i had looked at the pic I would have seen lol. Would you like a service manual if I can get one?

Sorry Ocean, I missed your post you are right, and i've just realised it is like the 5d with the removable AF focussing screen and AF point screen

Would love a service manual if at all possible. That would be awesome thank you very much


stehsegler - thanks for the review too