Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
I'm a bit tired of people asking how to fix, the expert answers and then everyone chimes in with a different method or product that worked for them once. Well the expert is the guy who after thousands of boards has seen what sometimes fails. The one or two time repair guy hasn't. Its all well and good to say what is an acceptable method/product if you need quick and easy - but people here aren't..... they're saying "this is the way" and push back when the expert tells them it ain't so. Making a simple thing into a convoluted mess of a thread.
So sometimes superglue and a powder works. Ima recommend that for everything now.
I can understand that some members might get frustrated because they know more than the rest. But don't forget this is a forum for everyone to share their experiences and opinions. After a while, you kinda know who is who. I spend too much time reading posts and a little bit writing (normally when there is no wind) so I kinda know who is mark_australia and Rider. When they say something about building and repair, I pay attention to them (I know there are others but I cannot remember their names).
on the other hand, I don't know who Mr. Hopper is or what he does (I don't need his CV or bio, I guess time might tell what he does). So it is hard to know if he knows what he is talking about or not. Well, I know he can be grumpy sometimes but has some sense of humor 
Hoop's has way over taken me in repair experience. I had a guy come to me with a clear high gloss balsa Sunova board a couple of days ago I said no as I didn't think I could get it to the high level of finish that was requested. Hoop's now has it and I'm sure he'll do a great job.
wasn't it hoops made the prototype mistrals for slowy? The people that have them won't let them go.
Here's the thing ,
You are all wrong.
What has to happen is ....
Finely chop a handful of fibreglass fluff . Mix the fluff with resin and make a bog . . Roughly sand effected area . Chuck on the bog. It shouldn't catch fire , it only looks a couple mm thick . When hard , hit It with a file then a sand block.
No correspondence shall be entered into.
It's funny to see so much seriousness over what looks to be a watertight paint chip.
Like I said, duct tape.
If you want to get all fancy, fill it up with surf wax first........then duct tape.
The professional forumers have no clue on real life repairs 
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
As long as it's load bearing bleach .
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..Mr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
I think she used the bleach after.
Select to expand quoteBTB said..
Nuff said.
Look, just because he designed and built your board, still doesn't mean he knows how to fix the thing.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..Mr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
Way too much information Mark! My mind feels violated.
Put me off my popcorn.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..Mr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
What? No cling wrap was involved?
I appreciate the replies from the pros. Learned a few tips and tricks in this thread even though I've done a handful of my own repairs before.
Select to expand quotePaducah said..Mark _australia said..Mr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
What? No cling wrap was involved?
I appreciate the replies from the pros. Learned a few tips and tricks in this thread even though I've done a handful of my own repairs before.
Paducah's been watching too much Bad Boy Bubby
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..Paducah said..Mark _australia said..Mr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
What? No cling wrap was involved?
I appreciate the replies from the pros. Learned a few tips and tricks in this thread even though I've done a handful of my own repairs before.
Paducah's been watching too much Bad Boy Bubby
Ha ha classic movie.
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..Paducah said..Mark _australia said..Mr Hooper said..
Like Lotofwind said, duct tape and surf wax. A bit of chicken wire and ordinary household bleach can't hurt either !
Sounds like my last sexual experience.
What? No cling wrap was involved?
I appreciate the replies from the pros. Learned a few tips and tricks in this thread even though I've done a handful of my own repairs before.
Paducah's been watching too much Bad Boy Bubby
Had to look that up on Wikipedia. Oh, my! 
Hi Guys,
Not trying to spam just trying to help. Hi Laurie.
First time post as simplepatch, (suspicious I know..) I've been around seebreeze for 20+ years advertising my locking tiedowns.
Anyway I sold that business.
Over the past 3 years of been trying to develop an easier way to repair boards as without the proper setup and supplies it is a messy, time consuming job even for the smallest repairs.
I wanted to create a bandaid style patch to fix small dings cracks, easily with no sanding etc.. anyway i came up with simplepatch. Its basically a resin infused fibreglass patch that is under a piece of film. You stick the patch on like a sticker, the film keeps your hands away from the resin, you cure it in the sun for 10 mins, then peel off the film. What's left on your board is a layer of fibreglass with a very smooth finish that doesn't require sanding smooth. The patches work great for cracks etc.. but when there are deep gouges I needed a fill.
So I started making a UV curing easy to sand Epoxy filler that I call Speedfill. Comes in a small tube, is the consistency of peanut butter, you fill your holes, put it in the sun for 5mins and it sets hard. You can sand it flat in seconds, it cures white and board is now watertight. You can paint over it, glass over it, (stick a patch over it) One limitation is it will only cure rapidly to depths of 5-6mm so if you have a deep gouge, you fill 5mm deep put it in the sun for a couple of minutes, then stick another 5mm layer on. It is still way easier than trying to mix resins and fillers.
For the repair of the tail - for a quick repair to sail, I would stick a bit of speedfill on that tip, put it in the sun and then sand it flat. take about 10 mins total. The board will be waterproof and smooth. Limitations would be if you bang it again, having no glass over the top it may crack and chip again. Putting a patch over that tip is not as straight forward as everywhere else on the board, but it can be done getting a bit creative. I will take a few photos of a similar repair and see if I can link it.
Being a new business I am looking for feedback, I know a lot of you guys Decrepit, Ryder, Mark Australia etc.. have been helping people with repairs forever in this forum, so I know you guys know your stuff so message me and I'll send you some samples to have a play with.
Cheers Clinton
Hi everyone , while we've got some experienced repairers / shapers in the house - have a question
Have a bunch of older single fins (think 242-250) , have a. 12 yo son getting into waves . Want to cut noses down so as not to spear his xs3 Severne ... and extra long noses with added rocker not needed with his light weight and 3.6m sails ,,,, Should I cut a straight nose and just glass (like a stubby shape ?) ... Do I need to resin in some high density foam to stop any compression deck to underside wise .... Been looking at these lovely single fins for a while up in the garage rafters and want to make some use of them ,,,, If he smashes the nose off in the shore break - no problem , cheap board etc , (they pretty good nick at mo tho ) .... Also thinking of dropping thruster Boxes in , and swallow tailing , to take off some of the excessive pintail ... what u think ?
Select to expand quoteseabreezer said..
Hi everyone , while we've got some experienced repairers / shapers in the house - have a question
Have a bunch of older single fins (think 242-250) , have a. 12 yo son getting into waves . Want to cut noses down so as not to spear his xs3 Severne ... and extra long noses with added rocker not needed with his light weight and 3.6m sails ,,,, Should I cut a straight nose and just glass (like a stubby shape ?) ... Do I need to resin in some high density foam to stop any compression deck to underside wise .... Been looking at these lovely single fins for a while up in the garage rafters and want to make some use of them ,,,, If he smashes the nose off in the shore break - no problem , cheap board etc , (they pretty good nick at mo tho ) .... Also thinking of dropping thruster Boxes in , and swallow tailing , to take off some of the excessive pintail ... what u think ?
The mast track is too far forward for kids with such small sail sizes. Either put in another mast track further back (while you are making the other alterations) or just get a kids wave board. There are quite a few around and not many kids who have the ability to ride them and are usually pretty cheap.
Select to expand quoteSimplepatch said..
Hi Guys,
Not trying to spam just trying to help. Hi Laurie.
First time post as simplepatch, (suspicious I know..) I've been around seebreeze for 20+ years advertising my locking tiedowns.
Anyway I sold that business.
Over the past 3 years of been trying to develop an easier way to repair boards as without the proper setup and supplies it is a messy, time consuming job even for the smallest repairs.
I wanted to create a bandaid style patch to fix small dings cracks, easily with no sanding etc.. anyway i came up with simplepatch. Its basically a resin infused fibreglass patch that is under a piece of film. You stick the patch on like a sticker, the film keeps your hands away from the resin, you cure it in the sun for 10 mins, then peel off the film. What's left on your board is a layer of fibreglass with a very smooth finish that doesn't require sanding smooth. The patches work great for cracks etc.. but when there are deep gouges I needed a fill.
So I started making a UV curing easy to sand Epoxy filler that I call Speedfill. Comes in a small tube, is the consistency of peanut butter, you fill your holes, put it in the sun for 5mins and it sets hard. You can sand it flat in seconds, it cures white and board is now watertight. You can paint over it, glass over it, (stick a patch over it) One limitation is it will only cure rapidly to depths of 5-6mm so if you have a deep gouge, you fill 5mm deep put it in the sun for a couple of minutes, then stick another 5mm layer on. It is still way easier than trying to mix resins and fillers.
For the repair of the tail - for a quick repair to sail, I would stick a bit of speedfill on that tip, put it in the sun and then sand it flat. take about 10 mins total. The board will be waterproof and smooth. Limitations would be if you bang it again, having no glass over the top it may crack and chip again. Putting a patch over that tip is not as straight forward as everywhere else on the board, but it can be done getting a bit creative. I will take a few photos of a similar repair and see if I can link it.
Being a new business I am looking for feedback, I know a lot of you guys Decrepit, Ryder, Mark Australia etc.. have been helping people with repairs forever in this forum, so I know you guys know your stuff so message me and I'll send you some samples to have a play with.
Cheers Clinton
Hey Simplepatch I've seen a similar product for carbon bicycle repairs, it's UV cure resin and carbon sandwiched between two layers of plastic, peel bottom plastic off, press onto area. Place in the sun resin cures remove top layer of plastic. Looks good for flats and tube type curves but not for 3d twisting curves.
I think it would be good for a quick tempery repair to get you back on the water, would still need sanding filling painting I'd think?
Select to expand quoteSimplepatch said..
Hi Guys,
Not trying to spam just trying to help. Hi Laurie.
First time post as simplepatch, (suspicious I know..) I've been around seebreeze for 20+ years advertising my locking tiedowns.
Anyway I sold that business.
Over the past 3 years of been trying to develop an easier way to repair boards as without the proper setup and supplies it is a messy, time consuming job even for the smallest repairs.
I wanted to create a bandaid style patch to fix small dings cracks, easily with no sanding etc.. anyway i came up with simplepatch. Its basically a resin infused fibreglass patch that is under a piece of film. You stick the patch on like a sticker, the film keeps your hands away from the resin, you cure it in the sun for 10 mins, then peel off the film. What's left on your board is a layer of fibreglass with a very smooth finish that doesn't require sanding smooth. The patches work great for cracks etc.. but when there are deep gouges I needed a fill.
So I started making a UV curing easy to sand Epoxy filler that I call Speedfill. Comes in a small tube, is the consistency of peanut butter, you fill your holes, put it in the sun for 5mins and it sets hard. You can sand it flat in seconds, it cures white and board is now watertight. You can paint over it, glass over it, (stick a patch over it) One limitation is it will only cure rapidly to depths of 5-6mm so if you have a deep gouge, you fill 5mm deep put it in the sun for a couple of minutes, then stick another 5mm layer on. It is still way easier than trying to mix resins and fillers.
For the repair of the tail - for a quick repair to sail, I would stick a bit of speedfill on that tip, put it in the sun and then sand it flat. take about 10 mins total. The board will be waterproof and smooth. Limitations would be if you bang it again, having no glass over the top it may crack and chip again. Putting a patch over that tip is not as straight forward as everywhere else on the board, but it can be done getting a bit creative. I will take a few photos of a similar repair and see if I can link it.
Being a new business I am looking for feedback, I know a lot of you guys Decrepit, Ryder, Mark Australia etc.. have been helping people with repairs forever in this forum, so I know you guys know your stuff so message me and I'll send you some samples to have a play with.
Cheers Clinton
Hi Clinton,
Your new product sounds good. I think for temporary bog ups it should be fine until you can get it fixed properly.
I think it's wrong to market it as something as an alternative to proper repairs.
Lots of people seem to be scared of sanding Or don't want to sand. The reality is that if you want to build or repair boards to a decent standard you're gonna have to get used to sanding. It's just one of the multiple steps needed to do things correctly.
Cheers, Hoops
Hi R1DER, The product in your links is a bit different. Being a new seabreeze poster I can't put links up yet, I will put some example pics of my boards up when I can. If you put .com.au after my name you will see a bit of info to help explain.
Basically our fibreglass patches have a premixed resin with a UV catalyst that is infused into the glass, there is not a drop of resin extra and you don't have to mix or touch anything. This is packaged under an application film so you don't get resin on your fingers and all is contained on a backing like a sticker. You roughen up the area your going to stick it with the sandpaper on the packaging for about 20 seconds, peel and stick on the patch, put it in the sun for 10mins then peel off the film. The application film is sticky and holds the patch firmly against your board while the resin is curing and keeps the glass flat and smooth similar to a vac bag, so you get a pretty smooth finish and a good bond.
It is just a very easy and convenient way of applying a wetted out piece of glass to repair your board and getting a pretty smooth finish.
The best part is I can fix most dings and cracks in the carpark in 15 mins with no tools, gloves, nothing.
Hi Hoop,
Thanks for the feedback. I agree using a simplepatch isn't to the same finish standards as a professional repair and it is not the solution for every ding. It's not painted, there is a slight resin edge that blends the patch to the board surface ( kind of like having a sticker). However for most cracks and scrapes you get in the car, planes etc.. you can fix them easily in minutes to a level that doesn't hinder the boards performance, makes the board waterproof and is hardly noticeable.
The basic fundamentals of the repair are the same so if you want to get your boards looking 100% sand and blend in the edges of the patch and fill and paint when you are in a workshop environment. Alternatively when you have a few patched dings and its winter, drop your board in to a repairer to get them tidied up.
All my boards used to have dobs of 5min epoxy or kneadit over little cracks and scrapes that I was one day going to get around to fixing properly but rarely did.
Give them a go and then tell me what you reckon. Message me and I'll send you some.
Cheers
Clinton
