Metro dawn patrol - not many at sunrise but geez it fills up fast. A bit of size.
Managed a couple, missed a couple just being a nice bloke and respecting the inside and giving blokes the benefit of the doubt. Very un-metro surfer of me I thought
Tried my southern 666 (fat) point break as the swell was up a bit, but it dropped a bit quick. Bit tricky on a short board. Dodging the crowd wasn't fun, either.. and seemed to be a different crowd than the last cruisey one I encountered. Bit cooler out there today??
Tried my southern 666 (fat) point break as the swell was up a bit, but it dropped a bit quick. Bit tricky on a short board. Dodging the crowd wasn't fun, either.. and seemed to be a different crowd than the last cruisey one I encountered. Bit cooler out there today??
Went down late thinking it would be ****e and scored a bag full of fun waves before the wind killed it... it was a bit crowded but over half the people out there could not surf well. I saw a bit of carnage that unfortunately resulted in some dings... and apparently some bloke snapped his board just before I got there... must have been very unlucky because it was not that big...
Yeah it was fun mate, not as good as it gets but it was orright. Was surfing with one of the world's top kneelos, bit sobering when you reckon you're doin alright and you get to see what it's really all about. The man shreds!!
It was poo snicko, no waves and the pom was pretty fkarking good on his knees....no waves ever at that place...move on. Nothing to see here But did enjoy the 3rd session
