jbshack said...

doggie said...

bakesy said...
Ok'ish this morning, got a couple of hours in before northerly hit, swell from a westerly direction.

Swell is up and its looking great on the cams, get out there!!

Funny Yesterday was bigger than today (slightly) at my local. But still managed a few waves for a couple of hours of fun this morning. Loads of paddling on the spot to hold position along rock face but a good work out non the less. Pulled into a few worth while rides Not bad considering the 24 knot winds..

+1 For some reason lately, my best sessions have been with ugly onshore conditions

^^^
Yes - and all the weed is coming back in too unfortunately...

especially when waves are shiZen, why do people get so upset? are they all closet Garcias

saw some "good old aussie" intimidation at sri Lanka reef last week. Old Mate aussie already grumpy when i paddled out, asked him about conditions, general chit chat
He was pi55ed at the conditions, which compared to todays (5/10 on SRO was about 1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 / 10) the "local russians" etc etc

He got into argument with Ruski about right of way (even tho it wasn,t concerning his wave) it turned into my dicks bigger, I'm more local (aussie lived on the Bukit) i got more money...........and influence .....then went up a notch to language based assault then to pushing shoving etc

all this when aussie didnt even want to be out there?????????????

why why why why
isn,t surfing in head to head n half reef break waves with 10 out,(half of whom were on longboards and waiting politely in the channel for the wider easier take off) in 28 deg water in boardies what its all about........... FUN

mocha1 said...
why why why why
isn,t surfing in head to head n half reef break waves with 10 out,(half of whom were on longboards and waiting politely in the channel for the wider easier take off) in 28 deg water in boardies what its all about........... FUN

Well said mate!...

Some nice waves coming through this morning... but apart from one nice little baz I surfed more funny sad & retarded than usual. Mistimed a floater, board buckled cracked me in the knee. Did it again & almost sliced my hand open on a fin. Then went shopping, bag broke & dropped a tin of homebrew on my little toe lol...I give up on today, just gonna drink beer & try to steer clear of any dangers...

doggie said...
Winning

LOL yep

The southerly wasn't having to drastic an effect on the shape today (until after midday) - it was more the shifting banks. Rips after every larger set were changing the dynamics constantly this morning at 3rds. Mid morning, although size wasn't consistent, there was a period in which the waves just kept rolling in where I was. Everyone got their share.

I think I got the wave of the morning around 3rds. Was almost shaking after it coz it was such a rush. Late drop into a wally left that I didn't think was going to hold up (worth trying, I thought). Dropped in without a hitch, holding the rail the entire time (backhand) and crouching, the thing barreled over me. Unfortunately, I wasn't deep, but I have a feeling there was a foam ball behind me, so I didn't try stalling too much. Anyway, it kept dredging out in front and it was all crystal clear - I could see where the bank was dropping off behind the wave. It pretty much did this until it was a knee high flop of a wave about 15m down the line. Undoubtedly my best wave in the 12 years I've been surfing the northen beaches - just for the rush of it!

Hope you guys got something good today!

All you blokes musta surfed a dif spot to me! My waves were all of the highest quality of nard, hoad, poo, shiZen, kaka, sia, merde that I have ever surfed
I was at nth scab end between 7-8 and it was absolute POO

mocha1 said...
All you blokes musta surfed a dif spot to me! My waves were all of the highest quality of nard, hoad, poo, shiZen, kaka, sia, merde that I have ever surfed
I was at nth scab end between 7-8 and it was absolute POO

I was there between 5 & 7 - so i'm guessing it didnt improve too much.

GPA said...
Trigg = woeful. Waist high close-outs with a billion people getting in the way... I came home to wash the car...

Thirds was like mastubating with a cheese greater

GPA said...
Trigg = woeful.

Cheers, Zuke!

Buster fin said...

Cheers, Zuke!

No worries Buster. I know it's not the best pic, I missed the drop but it's the last section of your last wave after the 'breeze was in. Still quite surfable.

Went up early this morning with fingers crossed was small and the wind was out of control

^^^^Where are you off to Mick?

NB: I don't know what the red was for.

Zuke said...

Buster fin said...

Cheers, Zuke!

No worries Buster. I know it's not the best pic, I missed the drop but it's the last section of your last wave after the 'breeze was in. Still quite surfable.

Looks very surf able too me

You seem to find it easy. Please tell me its not as easy as you make it look...

Thanks for sharing. Maybe tomorrow the kids will get a nice wave

MickPC said...

Zuke said...
^^^^Where are you off to Mick?

NB: I don't know what the red was for.

Headed down South for 5 days mate...since I thumbed up your post & it looks the same. I'm assuming you mean some faceless tosser thumbed mine down & you equaled it back out...I do that a lot on here too...cheers

Good luck Mick and take some pics.

JB, it's not that easy. Decades of research and hundreds of hours in the boat. Yesterday had a small window with the tide, swell and wind lining up. Buster had a 15 minute heads up, lucky he answered his phone.