Hey Dude , Those old photos you posted ,I'm pretty sure I used to surf there a far bit too ? If it is the place I'm thinking about ? We used to leave our old VW beatle on the island and get the barge over on the weekends ?? There were a few breaks arround (ie beach breaks ect ) but the main break was a righthander that broke over a bolder strewn headland ... Does that sound like same place I'm thinking it is ???
Love your work Torch. I've been out there when it was that big at 17 years old, but spent most of my time scrambling for the deep blue ocean. Certainly not slotted in the pocket. And on your backhand too.
