Fark me, I caught some smoking waves earlier. Caught wave of the session too! A smoker through Lowers (Winki). I could see lovely waves standing up tall over at Rincon (Bells), and I took the punt that the same set was going to hit Lowers pretty strongly. I stroked out to the horizon on the 9'6 Occasional Pin, and could not believe my luck. Perfect positioning for "wave of the day". It was a screamer... overhead and a half, all down the line. The board goes unreal!!
Ended up way down the end again, near The Cave. On the long walk along the narrow beach I thought about Jill and dedicated that wave to her memory... even though I never met her.
back to the 666 room my friend.
