Yeah cheers mate the nano is in and AB is staying home,last trip I mainly rode my 6'2 until it got to double o/head then its nice to have the paddle power of a bigger board to get in early,heaps of guys couldn't paddle into them as it was drawing a lot of water off the reef and they were on 5'10 -6'2 and not in their 20s.
Select to expand quoteTed the Kiwi said..
You want volume when it's big 
Last year I managed to punch my 8' gun out the back up north. It was 6-8'. With my extra length and volume I felt like the man. My first wave proved to me - if not everyone else in the line up - that I was the man. Big set wave, no one near it, me using my length to stroke out to it, turn around and stroke into it before it really started sucking up. Easy drop, two barrels, kick out before the close out and paddle fast to avoid the next one. Everyone in the line up saw it. I was feeling rock solid and like I was 20 years younger. So straight out the back again. When you are on the biggest gun the scary bit is you pretty much have to catch the biggest waves. I got another one almost the same and was loving life.
Then the next set came in. Now, I started further out this time so getting to the wave was easier and I had a nice little bubble surging me onto it. Popped up. This is easy. Love my Titanic sized board. I'm owning this. Watch out boys, let me show you how its done. I was on my feet starting to drop...
Then it really sucked off the reef and created another lip. Underneath me. And in the space of a second The Man was now going over the falls in front of fifteen wide eyed surfers who had paddled in front of me to try and scratch over the set. 58L of 8' board with a heavy glass job and 8' leggie. As I went over I hoped I wouldn't hurt anyone. I did hit a 15 year old but he was okay.
The rest of the session - after that almighty bitch slap flogging - The Man was now the Snivelling Little Boy who didn't want to know about getting anywhere near the sets. The SLB only got one or two more waves because my guts was churning everytime a set came.
Yep "You want volume when it's big" unless you decide you don't really want to catch the waves. With a big board you can't use the "If only I had my big board" excuse.
Select to expand quoteTed the Kiwi said...
Great story Drip
The funny part was a guy paddled up to me and apologised for getting in my way and stuffing up the wave. Apparently I was lined up with him, but the reality was I hadn't even seen him as I was looking down the line where I wanted to go until it all went pear shaped, then all I saw were the heads and boards en masse right where I was about to land. I'm glad no one was hurt - especially me. That wave can get really shallow.
Select to expand quoteSP said...
Cheers Mick,
Some of those waves are absolutely flawless.
Apart from the elevator drops that had me pausing and going through frame by frame to figure out that no amount of watching will provide tips to make me fast enough. Barrel riding isn't my problem - getting to my feet quick enough is the limiting factor. Those boys have some chops.
Its a pretty serious wave when its get big that one. Heaps of fun at 3-4 foot. These days its soo busy there as a general rule when its on - heaps of crew hang there all season - lots of Brazo's and Hawaiians. Also get a fair crew heading over from Bali when its looking good. I lucked into a nice session there last year on the tail end of a swell when we had to drive back to Bali due to the volcano stopping flights. It was a lot smaller than that but loads of fun. I think you would be fine out there Drip. There are a couple of other waves not far from there that also need heaps of swell to break and are even more frightening. I don't even surf them anymore - getting too old / too much of a whimp
Select to expand quotesmh said..
This is OK
Crazy man
Riding like a 5'4 Hypto in solid waves (as usual). How's the end you can see how much the wave has sucked out, he disappears below the reef for a bit.
Seen that wave heaps but not the front on version..
A lot more going on when you see it front on. Looked like he was cruising from the side view but hectic from the front.
This one is from Monday at home, the bloke is too smooth...
stabmag.com/full-frame/craig-anderson-arches-through-a-spring-swell-merewether-nsw/
Select to expand quotePop me out a bonzer....
<div>Published on Oct 25, 2016
<div>This video is about Channel Islands "Bonzer 5 Shelter" Surfboard Review by Noel Salas EP. 18.
In this Episode Noel heads to Oxnard, CA to interview Malcolm Campbell the creator of the Bonzer for an inside scoop on the collaboration of this 5 fin design.
Noel get’s his hands on two Bonzer 5 Shelter boards from Channel Islands Surfboards. One’s a groveler at 5’7 x 19 1/8 x 2 3/8 and the other a standard short board at 5’9 x 18 7/8 x 2 5/16.
I really enjoyed the Bonzer says Salas but he did need a little help from Duncan Campbell on how to maximize the boards capabilities. The first week of surfing the boards were tough as Salas quotes as he had to shift his weight for a more back footed approach to the boards design. As time went on in the videoing of the review Noel states that he loves the Bonzer and he is sad for the review to be over.
Here is what the Channel Islands website has to say about the Bonzer 5 Shelter.
“Since 1969 only a few miles and some of California’s best point breaks separated Al Merrick and The Campbell Brothers, Malcolm and Duncan. Unbeknown to most, Al and Malcolm began working together in 1985, when Malcolm came on board and shaped for Al/CI for over 20 years. now 30 years on, a design offering is born out of that experience and mutual respect.
The Shelter model is our contemporary Bonzer 5 shortboard. It’s name was inspired by the 2001 film, Shelter by Chris Malloy and Moonshine Conspiracy. We provided a 6’2″ and a 6’4″ for the film. The boards were ridden by Taylor Knox, Donovan Frankenreiter, and a cast of visiting surfers. The Shelter is primarily a squash tail, and can be custom ordered with a swallow, round pin, or thumb tail. It is a versatile board that works well in all conditions. When deciding on size, go with your favorite dimensions, taking in consideration the conditions and type of waves you anticipate using the board for. Utilizing the Bonzer 5 system, which we have developed and refined over the last 34 years, the Shelter provides quick easy rail to rail transition, and unparalleled drive out of turns. It also maintains speed exceptionally well through cutbacks, and has been known to have an uncanny ability to navigate through the barrel. We have been working for years toward getting the Bonzer fully into the mix at the highest levels; with CI that time has come. Have at it and enjoy the Bonzer Experience.” -Malcolm and Duncan Campbell
The goal of this dynamic collaboration is to bring the Bonzer, one of surfing’s most unique and original designs, to the forefront and to continue CI’s tradition of surfers building quality surfboards.
Tracks presents the next instalment in our three part series with surfing’s original anti-hero, Christian Fletcher. The Californian delivers his take on the state of progressive surfing today and boy is it a doozy. “I’m unimpressed,” he says sitting in our Coolangatta apartment dressed in his pressed white shirt and shades. “They all do the same tricks, they all make the same tricks and they all fall on the same tricks.”
www.tracksmag.com.au/video/the-christian-fletcher-files--on-progressive-surfing-440551
Select to expand quoteTux said..MickPC said..
How much fun does that a frame look
Heaps eh, I'd never considered surfing Jamaica before...they're bloody good surfers too
