Sandsy1 said..62mac said..
Tom one thing I noticed in the first clip was when he was heading up front he was riding on the top of the wave,I think you should hunt around leaned a thruster set up with a flatter rocker which will help you up front,that yellow board you were riding had too much nose lift imho,sure a log would have you up front hanging 10 but hanging ten only will not win you the Tas title which I can see you achieving one day.I think guy's like you should be encouraged by local shapers,its a shame to see someone with your talent being held back because of equipment.
Bit of a late inclusion to the discussion, but mac is spot on. Too much rocker and you are pushing water. A modern nose rider style board will give you the best of all types of wave. I'm only a weekend warrior, but a little clue I picked up in an article made all the difference in getting 10 over. Basically shape your body a bit like a question mark. Have your backside behind your heels and try to put your weight back onto your heels. Don't lean forward.
Might help. Borrow a couple of specific nose riders and see the difference. Good luck m8.
As you mention, too much rocker is pushing water. I noticed this today while surfing on my single fin. I did get ten over at one stage though but I didn't wax the board up before heading out and slipped as I was cross stepping back off the nose haha I was so stoked to finally have ten over! But It was only once and still need more practice!
Another longboarder paddled out as well (to my surprise, it was only about half a foot on the sets and really full.) and he shapes boards for another company. Anyway, he lent me his for a go, I think he is pretty interested in seeing me do well with longboarding because the other local kids don't really do it (they just rip on shorties, currently at nationals now ). Anyway this mal he lent me was one he shaped not long ago, very flat nose rocker, a little tail lift and a standard shorty thruster set up. The nose was quite wide and the tail was 15 inch. He said he weighs about 85-90 so it was quite thick in the nose, probably too thick for me as I only weigh 65kg.
Anyway, the board was great! A whole lot lighter, looser and faster than my single fin. I could feel the difference straight away with the flatter nose rocker, so much faster when I was standing about a foot from the nose. If it had a mal fin box in it with a big fin, I reckon this one could have been the ultimate nose rider!
I will probably get him to shape me one it was that good, I have never ridden something with a rocker profile that flat and it was soooo much better.
Thanks for the tips too! All the really good longboarders seem to nose ride with the '?' shape body. I will attempt to emulate this!
Cheers,
Tom.
The reason for very few rights is that I only have my brother filming for me when he is not surfing so most of the time we don't film at all. To be honest, this footage isn't of my best surfs at all or when I am surfing my best which I was a bit skeptical about including it in the first place. I ended up including it as I didn't have any other footage to make a long enough video. 
