I have made myself a few wood SUP paddles, I thought that some of you might like these photos of my paddles.

Thats so cool, see when I see wood in a store I just think that I will have stuff for the fireplace tonight :)

Very nice job

Anton had this paddle at WINDSURFnSNOW yesterday and Sam and I suggested he put it up on the Breeze. The paddle was a real piece of art but as a paddle it was surprisingly light and beautifully balanced.

The craftsmanship was superb. I had to look for the joins.

Great on a wall or in the water.

Beautiful craftsmanship.

Phill

Really really nice.
Like one to put up on the wall with those other shorter ones.
It was only up till the mid eighties they were still using wooden paddles at the olympics.

pete

Great job.. Beautiful paddle.. It's a shame that most wood paddle shafts have to be so thick for them to be strong enough to trust.

I have a beautiful wood Kialoa Methan that has a carbon shaft.. It's not as nice as complete wood paddle but at least I know it won't go snap and the shaft is nice and thin..

Here.. www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/The-sexiest-Kialoa-yet/?whichpage=-1

Are you planing to make any more?

DJ

husq2100 said...
Very nice work! Is that 2 thin carbon strips, either side of center in the shaft?

Yes it is, they enable me to make the shaft smaller and keep the strength

What pine? Have you looked at the weight of long fibre timbers such as nth American ash, hickory or spruce?

Interesting, I have never heard of "Young's Modulus" being used/refered to timber....generally steels and alloys. Not saying it doesnt apply, but I just hadnt heard it before. Do you have any links or info for this regarding different timber species?

I would be suprised if Meranti had the same characteristics as spruce. I have only used it in domestic construction, and really dont enjoy it. Its consistantly inconsistant and prone to splitting when nailed. When snapped, fibres are very short (like Aussie hwds)

obviously look is a big part of what you are doing, but I wonder if thinner/more laminations with some more carbon would help to reduce weight/increase strength???

What ash do you mean (unfortunately common names can be used to describe different species depending on geographic location)

have you looked into balsa? has been used very successfully in structural applications.

here are some average weights, obviously growing location/condition and grade selection will change these somewhat.

Meranti (dark red) 700kg/m3
Hickory approx 833kg/m3
American ash 673kg/m3
Spruce 450kg/m3
Western Red Ceder 380kg/m3

thats pretty cool. I do wonder, given that it looks like that is a USA compiled chart, that is their Meranti sourced from the same places as ours? and is it the same grading?

If you have ever used Douglas Fir that was grown in NZ and grown in the USA/Canada, you will notice a HUGE difference.

regardless, paddle is very nice work

husq2100 said...
thats pretty cool. I do wonder, given that it looks like that is a USA compiled chart, that is their Meranti sourced from the same places as ours? and is it the same grading?

If you have ever used Douglas Fir that was grown in NZ and grown in the USA/Canada, you will notice a HUGE difference.

regardless, paddle is very nice work

Yes I am going to start trying out other timber too, spruce and fir are both on my to do list, along with other "dark" woods for the blades, but the usual too many things to do and not enough time to do them all problem. However I will keep posting any new designs and changes that I make.

pohaku said...
how much?

$250

What about Paulownia ?
260 to 350kg/m3 & you dont need to glass, only oil.

fester said...
What about Paulownia ?
260 to 350kg/m3 & you dont need to glass, only oil.

what makes you say you dont nead to glass or atleast seal it?

Very nice