Click on the video and read the comments ...pretty interesting.

Looks like fun! Comments are all the same, the old "you're a dickhead, no you're a dickhead!"

Hey Steve: re the punching through waves less is best , the more foam in your board will always make it harder and more pulled nose and tail will also help.Make sure when you are about to try and punch over or through a white wash you are in surfer stance and you take your last stroke just before the wave hits your so your top arm is forward of your stroke so if the wave pushes your board back you can block it with your arm and it doesn't hit you in the head. Push down on your front leg , this helps pops the board over the wash.Keep your paddle down on the water to help with balance when you get pushed back and stay low , take the next stroke as soon as you can and keep the weight on your paddle to stop you going back , switch back to square stance as soon as you can and repeat for the next one , always keep up speed. Never let a wave hit you just standing there.

Practice in the small stuff and work your way up you'll surprised what you can get through and over. If you know you have no chance dive forward and deep then put your paddle out in front of you across your body with both hands on it so you are shaped liked the letter T this will help stop you from being being dragged back.

Rob

Step channel rail

Dale did it for me today, has some fun other stuff as well, concave deck and double concaves through the nose

Yes its 808.
Plan was to put a negative camber carbon flex tail on it as well like on some short boards I have as per pic. Flattens out the rocker, making the board very quick, yet flexes up allowing reasonable carving turns with a bit of push when you come out of them
But they are hard to get the flex right and it looked so clean where Dale ended up with the channels and concave deck, left it for the next experiment