Drop in - does our rep no favours

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byronmaui
byronmaui
448 posts
448 posts
19 Feb 2012 12:37pm
Husq not 3 try 7. I guess you didn't watch the waimea vids...hehe
husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
19 Feb 2012 3:40pm
byronmaui said...

Husq not 3 try 7. I guess you didn't watch the waimea vids...hehe


yep, only watched the 1st vid the thread was started about. I get where you guys are comming from, and judging an event from a few secs on footage is kinda useless.

My comment was regarding Towny's reasoning. Droping in is not just about respect but SAFETY. SUP boards are alot more of a problem than other boards (even of the same length)

I dont get to surf big stuff, and probably coundlt anyway. But for me, when I make the effort to do the right thing and get a wave from good position, last thing I want is someone else on it. I dont surf to socalise I do it because I love the ocean, the wave and the ride....
byronmaui
byronmaui
448 posts
448 posts
19 Feb 2012 1:50pm
Husq - I hear you but when it gets big at say Mavericks, Waimea, Jaws, etc. they all are riding big boards like SUP size either laying or standing and dropping in on each other. If anyone disagrees then they clearly haven't seen big wave surfing either in print or video. I'd say more than 60 percent has 2 or more people riding the wave. Not that its right but I think the understanding is if you are competent then it's ok.

I think what everyone is forgetting that Big wave surfing is mostly comprised of the drop and the wipeout. It's kind of like bull riding not pretty but exciting. The rush is the drop unlike surfing smaller waves where cutbacks and punts are the thing.

Just my nickel.
Towny
Towny
NSW
903 posts
NSW, 903 posts
19 Feb 2012 6:15pm
husq2100 said...

Towny said...

The thing a lot of people on here would have no idea about if you turn and commit to paddle into one of these waves is that you can't just pull back or flick off like you can on the little beachies that you surf every weekend, these swells move at a much greater speed with so much more energy.Once your in your in.


ok and with that argument in mind. Why would a person commit with 3 others inside them paddling for the wave......



Waimea i can nearly understand being a big drop but jaws has a couple of heavy sections, and husq swells like that you'l often have 10-20 min lulls,I dont condone it and avoid that sort of behaviour (in any size swell) like the plague but people get edgy plus all the cameras on the hill and i guess the kodak courage comes out.
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
19 Feb 2012 5:22pm
and who know who's actually going to get on the wave at that size with the wave speed and wind. look at how many guys paddle for them and miss,

gee, if you were polite you would never get a wave.

its doesn't even the have to be that big and guys miss waves.

even at 4 to 5 ft say alley, you go, some other guy on the inside suddenly decides to go. you are half way down the drop- much more likely to cause carnage trying to get off at the point.

better off finishing the drop then get off as soon as you can.

however, the heart of the matter is you had better know what you are doing what ever craft you are on
Towny
Towny
NSW
903 posts
NSW, 903 posts
19 Feb 2012 6:32pm
So true Lacey a kook is a kook no matter what he-she rides.
boardbumps
boardbumps
NSW
698 posts
NSW, 698 posts
19 Feb 2012 6:40pm
Just as Lacey says Chuck, you never now on any size day who on the inside of you (unless you know them ) is going to catch that wave.
The Mav video actually shows 4 people paddling for that wave.
One is inside the girl and has it but pulls back for whatever reason, the other is inside of the SUP rider and does not take it.

I don't know about your spot but I always get guys I have never seen before paddle inside me and thats behind the rock, so I cover them and when they pull back I go.
Even the local guys I cover, because you know them and what they surf like.

So imagine what its like out at Mavs, you CAN get hurt out there and there are a whole lot of newbies trying to catch that wave.

The last video of Jaws says it all. The third wave has three guys one after the other paddling for that wave and missing, bad position/not enough commitment, the fourth guy who is covering them gets the wave.

Its just modern crowded surfing. One thing tho is that they can all probably hold their breath longer than me.
Rod
surfershaneA
surfershaneA
869 posts
869 posts
19 Feb 2012 4:58pm
On a positive note, the thread has remminded me of this Wilbur Kookmeyer cartoon from an early 1980's Surfer Magazine. Wilbur thinks he is absolutely ripping it up and comes out of the tube with his head about to explode. Just as his ego is maxing all this other trash comes out of the tube behind him like kids on rubber tubes. It was an absolute classic. I just wish I could find it on the official website.

http://www.wilbur-kookmeyer.com/html/about_the_author.html

Come-on guy's, while the testosterone is pumping, just imagine what it would be like to get a nice wave on your SUP at Mavericks only to have a "chick" take off behind you?





teatrea
teatrea
QLD
4177 posts
QLD, 4177 posts
19 Feb 2012 7:48pm
Pretty hard to pull out once you where commited on waves that size. -i nearly dropped in on Gerry Lopez saturday , but thought better of it. He's got a pretty smooth style that's for sure.
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
19 Feb 2012 8:15pm
teatrea said...

Pretty hard to pull out once you where commited on waves that size. -i nearly dropped in on Gerry Lopez saturday , but thought better of it. He's got a pretty smooth style that's for sure.


gerry and me shared a wave______________ along with 5 others, ins and outs training.

its was a treat to have him come down and train. i heard he was stoked to do it.

he has been surfing heaps out at the alley. he likes the place we've been told
teatrea
teatrea
QLD
4177 posts
QLD, 4177 posts
19 Feb 2012 8:23pm
Seemed like a top bloke , happy to have a chat.he must liike the wave he was out for hours.
surfershaneA
surfershaneA
869 posts
869 posts
20 Feb 2012 6:06am
Wow, how cool was you guys getting to meet Lopez! I was hoping he might get out for a surf up here with Peter McCabe on one of his days off, but it never eventuated.
aus301
aus301
QLD
2039 posts
QLD, 2039 posts
20 Feb 2012 9:19am
I looked at the alley both days of the weekend and he being out must have been the only draw card, but not a big enough one for me. Great fun was to be had on some beachies just a few KM south
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