GKandCC said..
Just to clarify, does an engine driven compressor have a physical link with the engine, i.e. a shaft, or does it get 'driven' by an alternator off the motor? If the latter, then it should be possible to replace the electrical input with any other source, surely??

It is driven by an electromagnetic clutch from the engine. Typically draws a couple of horse power so it is totally incompatible with battery driven compressors even if you were willing to install some horrendous plumbing to switch compressors. You will need to run your engine for half an hour twice a day, longer in the tropics, and that is why most people are switching to 12 volt systems. Much quieter and usually powered by solar and it avoids salt water cooling, anodes, leaking compressor seals and often significant space.

What Cisco is saying is that you may have to match the the capacity of the 12vt compressor to that of the engine driven compressor. Otherwise the 12vt compressor may not pump enough refrigerant to supply the evaporator.
Tx valve orifices and orifice tubes can sometimes be changed to control the amount of liquid refrigerant into the evaporator and their capacity will directly effect the H/ pressure and the L/pressure of the system. Other problems may occur at the compressor end with the condenser providing too much sub cooling or over condensing the H/P liquid gas.

It probably would be easier to adapt an engine driven compressor for an already electric system ,,even running both types of compressors on the one system.

Yesterday when I sailed back in to my mooring I was a little surprised to see my tender was missing! I soon found it pulled up the beach near my mooring. Couple of the local liveaboards noticed one hull was full of water and rescued it for me. I managed to row back to the boat ramps and drained out the water. Windrush hulls row reasonably well with just the deck showing! On the trailer with the water draining out the problem was obvious. Years ago when I drilled out the rivet heads for the gudgeons I just filled the holes with epoxy. I left the body of the rivets in place and one of them had popped out. I suspect the back of the rivet had corroded away. Back home I drilled all the old rivets out and oversized the holes to get rid of any of the manufacturers silastic, counter sunk the holes and filled with body filler. 3 layers of cloth and epoxy finished the job. I have been waiting for photos to appear on my GP Facebook page but none yet so here is how she is supposed to float.

slammin said..

Ramona said..
Yesterday when I sailed back in to my mooring I was a little surprised to see my tender was missing! I soon found it pulled up the beach near my mooring. Couple of the local liveaboards noticed one hull was full of water and rescued it for me. I managed to row back to the boat ramps and drained out the water. Windrush hulls row reasonably well with just the deck showing! On the trailer with the water draining out the problem was obvious. Years ago when I drilled out the rivet heads for the gudgeons I just filled the holes with epoxy. I left the body of the rivets in place and one of them had popped out. I suspect the back of the rivet had corroded away. Back home I drilled all the old rivets out and oversized the holes to get rid of any of the manufacturers silastic, counter sunk the holes and filled with body filler. 3 layers of cloth and epoxy finished the job. I have been waiting for photos to appear on my GP Facebook page but none yet so here is how she is supposed to float.

I was just wondering about making our Windrush multipupose. So can you tow a cat?

I think it would be similar to herding cats! Because they are designed to sail upwind with out foils the hulls want to go straight. A long enough strop to each hull might work but I have my doubts. I attach the cat to my mooring off one hull and it sits there dead straight in the current and is like parking against a wharf. However when the current is fairly strong the cat has to be parallel to the mothership or she will charge off and there is no way you can hold it. I do motor around on occasion with the cat in the position as in the photo and that works fine.

Still planing at cutting my cockpit through! Got the cat seasick again on the way to remote islands and upside down! Found a Burke wind catcher and thought I would test it out!

Today the surgeon/butcher has sharpened his tools and made the incision! Dam how can I lock the Cat out tonight!

southace said..
That will do for today! Close to a walk through cockpit now. I may put doors where the original storm boards went and a new storm board in the new lower cut out!

Wow you must really hate that step. I went the other way and increased the lip on mine by about 1" to make it more weather proof.

A

Has this forum died or is it just me?

EC31 said..

I forget to take a camera with me when I do work on the boat. I forget half the stuff I am supposed to take with me as well.

Re-arranged the winches on the cabin top and added some (well 10) clutches so we now have a choice of terminating at the mast or cockpit for the lines and halyards.

It's quite a challenge to take before and after pics. Worth it though. I have 4000 pics on my iPad now and possibly the same on my laptop!

Libran said..

southace said..

Andrew68 said..

southace said..
That will do for today! Close to a walk through cockpit now. I may put doors where the original storm boards went and a new storm board in the new lower cut out!

Wow you must really hate that step. I went the other way and increased the lip on mine by about 1" to make it more weather proof.

A

Mine was 17inch step if you take a look at the previous pics. Now I have a 3 inch lip and will have a 16 inch storm board to fit if somehow my cockpit fills with water!

Fairly radical surgery Southace. Not sure I would have done that as I would be concerned about weakening the structural integrity of the hull. Don't know about your boat but I think the step on mines keeps the sides of mine propped apart and also helps with the torsional stiffness of the hull.

Oh no seriously it won't effect it structurally it's hard enough cutting into the 24mm ply, the ring frames are somewhere in there too but not touching them. The hull is foam core woven wrovings in epoxy with plywood epoxy decks/cabin and cockpit. I doubt I made any structural flaws in my incisions today.

Gives me the ****s a bit people old school and negitive on this forum. It's not like I cut through a bulkhead! Stupid to have such a step up and over waterproof cockpit if you can't enjoy what you want and not looking at sailing around the world tomorrow.

Yep bad design I can take a wave into the cockpit mop up the mess if it comes into the cabin and still have power.

On the race on the weekend I was concerned the VHF was not receiving as well as i would hope, so I went up the mast and of course everything looks fine. The next step is to get a loss meter and check for attenuation. Wish I was better at heights.

whiteout said..
more boat painting ( Grinding, Prep and paint) Looks better just love a steel boat just cannot part with it. Love a challenge......

I like the offset stanchions,

added some paint the other day and started to reassemble ill finish it tonight