The Excell is a plow and it will do that very well. I use a home built SS version of an ultra. The ultra is virtually a spade with a rocna dimensioned shank but hollow. The hollow shank and the lead filled pointed blade ensures the anchor hits the bottom perfectly every time. I think my total weight is 11 kilos with 3 kilos of that as lead in the tip.

Years ago I used a homemade SS fixed shank plow anchor on my fishing vessel. It was lead filled too but after lots of testing I fitted the rear fins to reduce the plowing and help it move upright to set. A few years later the excell appeared hence my comment above about designing. There is very little that's new in anchors.

Well I'm happy with the hydraulic side of the autopilot a few pipe saddles tomorrow and it's finished .
I have yet to make the tiller pivot and finish off around the cylinder mount which will happen in the next week or so.

Not today but over the last month Time After Time got a new set of windows. Gone are the old framed crazed ones and in place I have used a medium smoke acrylic held in place with Fixtech 200.

The hard jobs were removing the old acrylic in 1 piece whatever the previous polyurethane was it did a great job. It showed that the permanent use of screws is not necessary and just induces cracks.

I actually like the old school frames but they are much the worse for wear, who knows maybe they'll be trendy again so I've stored them with my tartan jacket.

Hassles were obviously the cleaning and secondly the plastic shop cut them slightly too large which in a busy schedule of things other than boat threw me out nearly a week.

I was tempted to do the big windows in just 1 piece but didn't trust myself that I could get it in easily, the other being holding it in place and clamping particularly the center of the boat frame.

The small hull window I was really tempted to replace with a hatch because the windows never touch water even at maximum heal and I am very conscientious of locking down to get underway. In the end prudence was sitting on my shoulder so I held off and I'm not sure how much improvement in airflow they would make.

Things I learnt was well the whole job it's the 1st time I've ever done it but mainly let the fixtech dry and then any mistakes can be removed. I glued the windows in and then filled the edges then trimmed any spots.

On close inspection I can see every mistake but I think they are much better than the old ones. The cracked ones are gone and no leaks!

Nice Job Slamin
I bet you're glad that jobs over Lazza

slammin said..
Oh Lazzz that's exactly what I would of done too.

Cheers HG it's just a slap on job compared to yours so I really appreciate your comment.

well here's a slap on job Slamin glad it's over early start and home 4.20m pm getting warm.
sand under the water line roll on a coat of barrier coat and when it was tack dry rolled the antifoul on
take it off roll it on take it off roll it on take it off roll it on







So glad thats over with maybe it will hit the water next week
. she needs a good drink poor old girl its the couch for me and a power nap

All that patience and hard work has paid off HG, congratulations.

Looks schmick HG. Very very nice.

I got yet more little jobs done today. Mounted the BCF Ronstan sellout cheek blocks for the headsail sheets. Cut the bolts that protude into the cabin from the cheek blocks and mount cap nuts plus a half dozen other sundry bolts that were sticking out. Mounted an extra set of speakers. Tidied up the edging on the cabin windows.

Tried to replace the last 2 of my old turnbuckles but they don't fit. They say 5/16 the originals I think are 5/16 but they only turn 3/4 of a thread. Luckily the shop sized them so back to town I go. I'm wondering f they are 5/16 but different thread????

Also did the Windrush 14 Cat trailer bearings and packed it up for a few days down at Etty Bay. AN amazing place that would be worth a visit if anybody is in the area.

fitted the prop loctited and a nyloc I'll fit a split pin tomorrow and a anode and did some more deck paint and ended up in the engine bay tidying up a few things in there

fitted up my mast head nav light to my old original bracket which has been made to attached with a couple of s/s 6 mm bolts

samsturdy said..

'Scuse I HG, but shouldn't one use a castellated nut to fit a split pin through ??.........just checkin'.

Its it has high strength loctite and has a nyloc nut Sam will have a split pin but only as a precaution on the end of the shaft I'd have well over
400 ft lbs tension on that nut sam. she's not going anywhere
Unless you shim exactly for the castellated nut with good tension on the prop shaft hole lines up I'm happy with what I've done.
she won't move it's all choices and this is mine Ive never had as nut come undone in over 40 years of spinning them

For me to remove that prop nut I'd have to heat the nut first to soften the loctite

I used a block of wood sitting on the ground with the prop blade on the other end and a powerbar plus my rigger tamer which is a meter long gal pipe
only joking

Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.

twodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.

Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.

PhoenixStar said..

cisco said..

twodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.

Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.

Got an OZfrig, great but realise that it is eutectic, so no chance of a freezer unless you set it up as one, if you do then it's not a frig.

If you go the ozfrig way I suggest you get the water cooled version, it uses the water from your onboard supply, no salt water involved.

PhoenixStar said..

PhoenixStar said..

cisco said..

twodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.

Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.

Got an OZfrig, great but realise that it is eutectic, so no chance of a freezer unless you set it up as one, if you do then it's not a frig.

If you go the ozfrig way I suggest you get the water cooled version, it uses the water from your onboard supply, no salt water involved.

The water cooled version could also be used for hot water preheating if it was hose up ok.
using the heat off the cooling system to preheat your hot water system ,you would be surprised how it would help

I don't think it is viable or even possible. The engine driven compressor probably take a horsepower or two which the rest of the system will require.

For a definitive answer ask a fridgespert.