Van de Stadt 34 supporters club!

> 10 years ago
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pumpnjump
pumpnjump
WA
265 posts
WA, 265 posts
10 May 2013 2:34pm
Having just returned from our second trip to the Abrolhos Islands on our VDS34 I am so stoked with the decission to buy last year, latest trip, 5 of us on board, 5 SUPs, 5 surfboards, 3 kitesurf boards, 2 twin tips, kites for all of us, spearfishing and fishing gear, not to mention enough food and beer for the week, this boat is so comfortable and good sailing manners especially to windward, our VDS is Aluminium so not sure how it compares with a steel one, but value for money is great.

cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
12 May 2013 12:33am
For interior space and comfort there are very few yachts of similar length that can compare with a VDS 34.

Mine is a steel version with deep keel and spade rudder which I believe is the original design configuration. Shallow draught and skeg hung rudders are an accommodation for inshore cruisers.

The alloy and timber versions are .9 tonne less in displacement but carry .2 tonne more in ballast and therefore have a better ballast to displacement ratio and should perform better than steel versions.

This assumes that the original design has been adhered to. Consideration should also be given to whether the yacht has the taller fractional rig or the sturdier mast head rig.

I spoke with somebody a few years ago who said the alloy versions sit too high in the water. This may or may not be the case but they would have a greater payload capacity which would offset it.

Unfortunately I have not had mine in the drink yet but I have been told there is not much to pick in sailing performance between a VDS 34 and an S&S 34.

Sounds like you had a great trip and with 5 people aboard and all that gear, you have done really well.

I look forward to hearing more of your adventures and having some of my own.
Offthegrid
Offthegrid
WA
127 posts
WA, 127 posts
12 May 2013 8:38am
I have a Van de Stadt 34 too. I'd love to show you guys and see yours also. I'm not sure how to load up an image from my iPad though. Any pics of yours in the mean time would be great as there are so many different variations and set ups.

cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
13 May 2013 1:29am
Best pic I have at the moment. I have dropped the rudder out which was half full of water and rusting out. I will rebuild it in composite stainless framing and most likely closed cell foam filling with woven mat fibreglass skin.

It is incredibly heavy when built of 3 mm steel. I will follow the guidelines set out by Joe Adams in his yacht design booklet. The propellor shaft is out too.


Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7754 posts
NSW, 7754 posts
13 May 2013 8:23am
Cisco, New one will still get water in eventually. SS shaft and fibreglass will always separate enough to allow water in, then crevice corrosion with the SS web will be a problem down the track. Epoxy would be a better solution for sheaving. Only real solution is to drill a drain hole everytime you slip.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
13 May 2013 12:00pm
Thanks Ramona. This yacht is now my "main squeeze" as the S&S has sold and settled at a fair price for both the new owners and myself.

The rudder is about 5 foot deep and the post a solid 3" stainless shaft. It had 3 mm frame plates, a 3 mm skin and a heavy shoe on the bottom. I am going to cut the post short and weld a stainless tube/pipe on it to the bottom plate.

I had then considered fabricating the frame plates and skin from light gauge stainless, say 1 or 1.5 mm sheet with a drain plug in the bottom. This will obviously create some electrical potential.

Do you think this would be a good idea or would a composite be better?? The original all steel construction just does not appeal to me at all.
Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7754 posts
NSW, 7754 posts
13 May 2013 7:17pm
I am not that keen on stainless underwater apart from SS prop shafts were you don't have much choice. I think the composite Van de Stads have either SS keels or epoxy sheaved mild steel. The electrical potential is not really a problem as an anode either side will sort that. I find exposed metal underwater seems to attract heaps of shell. I think I would go down the SS construction route but sheave in epoxy. Blade rudder like that is really a consumable. Build two!
LooseChange
LooseChange
NSW
2140 posts
NSW, 2140 posts
13 May 2013 8:11pm
cisco said..

The rudder is about 5 foot deep and the post a solid 3" stainless shaft.



The first thing I would do is to get rid of the solid shaft and replace it with hollow bar just for the weight saving it will achieve and reduce pitching moment.

3" shafting weighs nearly 37kg/m
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
14 May 2013 2:00am
LooseChange said..


The first thing I would do is to get rid of the solid shaft and replace it with hollow bar just for the weight saving it will achieve and reduce pitching moment.

3" shafting weighs nearly 37kg/m


Yeah. That is what I was getting at when I said:-

"I am going to cut the post short and weld a stainless tube/pipe on it to the bottom plate."

The rudder post is tapered down to 1 inch from where it comes through the hull to the deck where the tiller is keyed and clamped on. I figure that 3 or 4 inches clear of the hull (lower rudder post bearing) it could become a tube welded on with a 1/8 inch or even 1/16 inch wall thickness that would be plenty strong enough to support the rudder loads of steering.

Grounding loads are a thing that is not supposed to happen to a rudder and I regard myself as a good enough sailor for them not to happen.....???....often.

I am also thinking that it is hell of a big rudder for this yacht with it's deep fin keel configuration. Far be it from me to question the design wisdom of the venerable Van De Stadt design team but in comparison to an S&S 34 the VDS 34 has a damn big rudder.









I reckon that rudder could be shortened up by one panel from the bottom and still have more than adequate steering control.

What say ye???


Ramona
Ramona
NSW
7754 posts
NSW, 7754 posts
14 May 2013 8:35am
About the same dimension as an SS34, UFO 34, Kalik 33, Carter 33. I would be inclined to round off the bottom leading edge so it did not collect weed. Apart from that see how she sails and then plan the next one. I would probably keep it the same length and even add a bit more surface area! Research other yacht keel/rudder updates and see what the trends are. Shortening may reduce the down wind security.
pumpnjump
pumpnjump
WA
265 posts
WA, 265 posts
14 May 2013 10:36am
I'm with Ramona, keep the rudder area, whilst very nicely balanced and light on the tiller on a reach and beating hard, they do need that steerage once on a beam reach or run. Looking forward to your trials maybe something to play with in the future. My VDS is the same configuration keel and rudder as yours Cisco.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
14 May 2013 10:18pm
OK, I am convinced. I will rebuild the rudder to the same size and shape but it has to be lighter.

Got a bit of other steel work to do before that though.
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