Select to expand quoter13 said..julesmoto said..
Thanks for all the info people's. Really want a non bolt-on keel with boats of this age as bolts can be a real liability. Don't want a sandwich construction hull either. It really is unbelievably hard to find something good which won't require a lot of work. The Phantom 32 was interesting but the guy can't substantiate the rigging having been done in 2016 and furthermore he has broken his leg and won't show it to anybody for a month because he said it has bird crap all over it. Asked him 3 weeks ago for photos of the interior but still none and now he has a broken leg.
Pretty wary after being blatently lied to by a (currently in France) Scarborough Qld Mottle 33 owner about 2YO rigging that turns out to be over 9YO. Getting nowhere fast :-(.
BTW anyone know anything about whether Endeavour 30s are any good or whether perhaps they are a slow dog not being designed by a known architect?
Wouldn't classify an Endeavour 30 as a slow dog. Good article on one here;
www.mysailing.com.au/cruising/what-worked-and-what-did-not
This one looks good
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/endeavour-30-mark-ii/248378
Assume you've seen these links;
www.endeavour.asn.au/assets/spec30.pdf
sailboatdata.com/sailboat/endeavour-30-aus
30 of them built.
See prior comments here;
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Endeavour-30?page=1
1972 design by Graham Tilley - they held their own in the 1/2ton fleets of that time till the Farr and Whiting lightweights came along and caused havoc.
See page 14 of this where the 1/2 ton Dec 1972 titles are mentioned - I remember watching some of the races and whilst don't have the results the E30 finished around mid-fleet if I recall right.
archive.cyca.com.au/media/3437932/offshore-deember-1972.pdf
Thank you very much for this great info on the Endeavour 30.My searching didn't reveal that much so your skills are obviously far better than mine.Wouldn't that guy's boat be good buying after him upgrading and spending all that money on it! Essentially that's the type of boat I am after when an owner upgrades or loses interest. Didn't realise however that they were bolt on keels which kind of turns me off unfortunately.The underwater shape of the one for sale which you list and which originally sparked my interest doesn't really look like a bolt on. Oh well I will keep looking and still really like Mottle 33s as they don't have pinched in IOR sterns and so should be good off the wind as well as not suffering from pinched in confined cockpits. The unitary lead filled keel also appeals which is quite modern in shape without too much wet area not to mention the rudder being as far after possible where it should be. Strangely I notice that a Hutton 28 which I had built in 1982 and kept for 15 years is currently for sale as is the previous one out of the mould which I watched being built
How many boats of that vintage have lost their keels due to bolt issues? I can't recall a single one.
If such failures are uncommon - and it seems to me that they are all but unknown - why prioritise them?
Select to expand quoteChris 249 said..
How many boats of that vintage have lost their keels due to bolt issues? I can't recall a single one.
If such failures are uncommon - and it seems to me that they are all but unknown - why prioritise them?
I just like to eliminate as many unnecessary risks as possible especially when the consequences are so dire. Funny maybe from a guy who multiple times a week pulled 3KM wheelies on his motorcycle at 180-200 kph along (untrafficed) expressways for most of my 40s and 50s but we arent always consistent. Went for a walk out along Long Reef (Narrabeen Sydney) about six years ago at low tide and came upon a lead keel off maybe a 30 foot boat. Sure it would have hit the reef but still. Maybe I just have a fobia. Metal fatigue is a well known phenomenon- even without rust so when Im bashing into waves offshore and dropping off them so that the whole boat reverberates time after time after time I think of these things. Never worried me in a Folkboat but it did in my Hutton 28. Peace of mind is priceless and the sea can be cruel and wild beyond imagination.
Maybe read here:
www.yachtingworld.com/news/keel-failure-shocking-facts-60006
I've read that piece, and much more. The first incident the database mentions was 1984. I specifically mentioned boats of the vintage under discussion here, and I don't think a single one of them was that new in design and construction.
There was a significant change in keel root width and length in many boats from about 1987. Over the last 20 or so years the problem has become very significant but that is due to design and structural changes.
I last lost someone I knew (a bit) to the sea about three weeks ago. I've been out there on search parties, looking for people I knew, and when the search was called off I heard how they died. I have read, for example, the coroner's reports on the Rising Farrster and Inglis 47 fatal keel losses. I am very aware of the dangers. However, there are real and significant dangers and there are dangers that are so insignificant as to not be really worth considering.
Unless an actual keel loss due to faulty bolts in boats of the design type and era under discussion can be shown, there's no indication that they are a problem.
The last boat I know of that went up onto Long Reef was a Hick 25. That was not the sort of boat you're looking at, and from what I can recall the loss of the keel was not a major factor.
PS - I had the keel bolts on my boat pulled and checked so I am not unaware of the issue. But there's basically zero evidence that it's a significant risk in older boats.
Select to expand quote
Unless an actual keel loss due to faulty bolts in boats of the design type and era under discussion can be shown, there's no indication that they are a problem.
However I must admit it is pretty cool to not have any keel bolts, you don't worry about them or ignore them.
Having said that I do know of a Joubert Magpie that lost its keel after being beached in a storm (non-baker boat) so they can come off, I guess.
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
Select to expand quoteRingle said..
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
That's very interesting and explains a lot of loose ends about the Berrimilla story.
I like the Staunchion bases, but my Currawongs previous owners have managed to crack most of them open and I've had to replace them with a the standard arrangement.
I visited Fibreglass Yachts on many ocassions in 1967 as Dad's Top hat was being built. I have no recollection of air-conditioning at the factory.
What I do recall was Mr Baker making the first Brolga where he had stretched the mold by 3' (??) and was calling it the foam flyer and to prove that he intended to enter it in the Sydney to Hobart.
Not sure what mold he stretched.
Can't imagine Mr Baker or Prof Joubert being party to stretching any mould 3 foot. If this is inferring that the Brolga mould was a Currawong mould cut and shut and having 3 foot added to it around the max beam location, I would suggest that this is not correct in any way shape or form. The resulting lack of a fair and continuously smoothly transitioning hull shape would be very obvious and is not the case in Brolgas I have passed on the water. Perhaps you could clarify? Thanks
Select to expand quoteWarrina III said..
I visited Fibreglass Yachts on many ocassions in 1967 as Dad's Top hat was being built. I have no recollection of air-conditioning at the factory.
What I do recall was Mr Baker making the first Brolga where he had stretched the mold by 3' (??) and was calling it the foam flyer and to prove that he intended to enter it in the Sydney to Hobart.
Not sure what mold he stretched.
So why
"foam" flyer. I thought the hulls were solid and the decks Balsa sandwich?
Select to expand quoteRingle said..
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
Apparently Berrimilla had to have a full hull peel which implies very very serious osmosis so perhaps not so bulletproof after all.
Select to expand quoteRingle said..
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
Apparently Berrimilla had to have a full hull peel which implies very very serious osmosis so perhaps not so Bulletproof after all.Select to expand quoteAndrew68 said..
Unless an actual keel loss due to faulty bolts in boats of the design type and era under discussion can be shown, there's no indication that they are a problem.
However I must admit it is pretty cool to not have any keel bolts, you don't worry about them or ignore them.
Having said that I do know of a Joubert Magpie that lost its keel after being beached in a storm (non-baker boat) so they can come off, I guess.
Interesting what you say about a Magpie losing it's keel after being washed up on the beach because I recently heard a reliable acount of how many Mottle 33 hulls were laid up in the Pacific Islands and then shipped to Australia without keels despite the fact that they are an integral keel yacht with no bolts. Apparently the lead keel was then sandwiched (at Naut in Gosford) between two shells which were then glassed to the stub keel on the hull moulding and apparently when the boats are out of the water this can sometimes still just be seen and sometimes contains pinholes which are not present in the rest of the hull.
I had previously thought that yachts with integral keels were laid up all in one piece with lead shot or something dropped in and then resin poured in after. If this is not the case then it is clearly not as good to have the keel simply attached to the hull by a couple of layers of fibreglass which cannot be chemically bonded to the hull or keel surround as this join is laid up at a different time and can it best have only a mechanical bond. Still probably preferable to bolts however as at least there are no keel bolts to rust, fatigue or elongate. This could explain why the Magpie lost its keel. I can't imagine a full-length keelboat like a Tophat Folkboat or Clansman being fabricated in this fashion however.
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Ringle said..
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
Apparently Berrimilla had to have a full hull peel which implies very very serious osmosis so perhaps not so Bulletproof after all.Andrew68 said..
Unless an actual keel loss due to faulty bolts in boats of the design type and era under discussion can be shown, there's no indication that they are a problem.
However I must admit it is pretty cool to not have any keel bolts, you don't worry about them or ignore them.
Having said that I do know of a Joubert Magpie that lost its keel after being beached in a storm (non-baker boat) so they can come off, I guess.
Interesting what you say about a Magpie losing it's keel after being washed up on the beach because I recently heard a reliable acount of how many Mottle 33 hulls were laid up in the Pacific Islands and then shipped to Australia without keels despite the fact that they are an integral keel yacht with no bolts. Apparently the lead keel was then sandwiched (at Naut in Gosford) between two shells which were then glassed to the stub keel on the hull moulding and apparently when the boats are out of the water this can sometimes still just be seen and sometimes contains pinholes which are not present in the rest of the hull.
I had previously thought that yachts with integral keels were laid up all in one piece with lead shot or something dropped in and then resin poured in after. If this is not the case then it is clearly not as good to have the keel simply attached to the hull by a couple of layers of fibreglass which cannot be chemically bonded to the hull or keel surround as this join is laid up at a different time and can it best have only a mechanical bond. Still probably preferable to bolts however as at least there are no keel bolts to rust, fatigue or elongate. This could explain why the Magpie lost its keel. I can't imagine a full-length keelboat like a Tophat Folkboat or Clansman being fabricated in this fashion however.
Please tell us more about your reliable account of Pacific Islands fibreglass boat construction in the '80s! I was there, living & travelling through PNG, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Fiji. The fibreglass industries catered for small water tanks, Ice boxes for fishing, and at the most, 18-20foot banana boats. The larger banana boats were imported from Japan. I ordered six 20footers from Aruligo Fibreglass in Honiara and sustained their business for six months. PNG was adjusting to independence and coffee was the vision industry. Vanuatu was talking with Gaddafi and the non-aligned states, it's only industry being copra and tourism. Fiji was testing the water with military coups and a collapsed economy. Then there's the climate... well into the 30's under a tin shed and humidity most of the year like Darwin mid wet season. Even making large ice boxes, they could only work fibreglass up to 8-9am before curing became too unstable. The local watercraft industry was timber, and the commercial industry was steel. As the NZ bloke who ran Tulagi ship works advocated at the time... 'concrete for houses, fibreglass for garden furniture, and steel for boats'.
Sorry, Julesmoto, but I do have to challenge the reliability of your post:)
Sorry the information is on the Mottle 33 Facebook site which I no longer have access to because the cantankerous female founder of that site, who posts on here regularly saw fit to delete me from the site and bar me merely because she put up a couple of boats on here under the interesting boats for sale topic one of which I dared to criticize. Since she lives on here she will see this post and perhaps she could do something useful like quote the post again.
Select to expand quoteBushdog said..julesmoto said..Ringle said..
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
Apparently Berrimilla had to have a full hull peel which implies very very serious osmosis so perhaps not so Bulletproof after all.Andrew68 said..
Unless an actual keel loss due to faulty bolts in boats of the design type and era under discussion can be shown, there's no indication that they are a problem.
However I must admit it is pretty cool to not have any keel bolts, you don't worry about them or ignore them.
Having said that I do know of a Joubert Magpie that lost its keel after being beached in a storm (non-baker boat) so they can come off, I guess.
Interesting what you say about a Magpie losing it's keel after being washed up on the beach because I recently heard a reliable acount of how many Mottle 33 hulls were laid up in the Pacific Islands and then shipped to Australia without keels despite the fact that they are an integral keel yacht with no bolts. Apparently the lead keel was then sandwiched (at Naut in Gosford) between two shells which were then glassed to the stub keel on the hull moulding and apparently when the boats are out of the water this can sometimes still just be seen and sometimes contains pinholes which are not present in the rest of the hull.
I had previously thought that yachts with integral keels were laid up all in one piece with lead shot or something dropped in and then resin poured in after. If this is not the case then it is clearly not as good to have the keel simply attached to the hull by a couple of layers of fibreglass which cannot be chemically bonded to the hull or keel surround as this join is laid up at a different time and can it best have only a mechanical bond. Still probably preferable to bolts however as at least there are no keel bolts to rust, fatigue or elongate. This could explain why the Magpie lost its keel. I can't imagine a full-length keelboat like a Tophat Folkboat or Clansman being fabricated in this fashion however.
Please tell us more about your reliable account of Pacific Islands fibreglass boat construction in the '80s! I was there, living & travelling through PNG, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Fiji. The fibreglass industries catered for small water tanks, Ice boxes for fishing, and at the most, 18-20foot banana boats. The larger banana boats were imported from Japan. I ordered six 20footers from Aruligo Fibreglass in Honiara and sustained their business for six months. PNG was adjusting to independence and coffee was the vision industry. Vanuatu was talking with Gaddafi and the non-aligned states, it's only industry being copra and tourism. Fiji was testing the water with military coups and a collapsed economy. Then there's the climate... well into the 30's under a tin shed and humidity most of the year like Darwin mid wet season. Even making large ice boxes, they could only work fibreglass up to 8-9am before curing became too unstable. The local watercraft industry was timber, and the commercial industry was steel. As the NZ bloke who ran Tulagi ship works advocated at the time... 'concrete for houses, fibreglass for garden furniture, and steel for boats'.
Sorry, Julesmoto, but I do have to challenge the reliability of your post:)
The first run of 'glass Adams 28s were built in Tonga. My information came from sailing the boat owned by the manufacturer when I was a sailing journalist and the boat was new.
Select to expand quoteChris 249 said..Bushdog said..julesmoto said..Ringle said..
When Geoff Baker started building the Currawong he adapted the cabin to suit the Brolga. He built quite a number with this cabin top. When Baker died, Formit in Gosford took over the manufacture but only built a few. Berrimilla is actually a Formit built boat. She is still bulletproof.
Baker nevertheless had a reputation for strongly built boats. The hulls were laid up wet around the clock, the hull deck join is fully glassed. The staunchion bases are glassed in sockets so no water ingress into balsa core. If a Joubert designed boat is built by Baker you have a well built, strong boat
Apparently Berrimilla had to have a full hull peel which implies very very serious osmosis so perhaps not so Bulletproof after all.Andrew68 said..
Unless an actual keel loss due to faulty bolts in boats of the design type and era under discussion can be shown, there's no indication that they are a problem.
However I must admit it is pretty cool to not have any keel bolts, you don't worry about them or ignore them.
Having said that I do know of a Joubert Magpie that lost its keel after being beached in a storm (non-baker boat) so they can come off, I guess.
Interesting what you say about a Magpie losing it's keel after being washed up on the beach because I recently heard a reliable acount of how many Mottle 33 hulls were laid up in the Pacific Islands and then shipped to Australia without keels despite the fact that they are an integral keel yacht with no bolts. Apparently the lead keel was then sandwiched (at Naut in Gosford) between two shells which were then glassed to the stub keel on the hull moulding and apparently when the boats are out of the water this can sometimes still just be seen and sometimes contains pinholes which are not present in the rest of the hull.
I had previously thought that yachts with integral keels were laid up all in one piece with lead shot or something dropped in and then resin poured in after. If this is not the case then it is clearly not as good to have the keel simply attached to the hull by a couple of layers of fibreglass which cannot be chemically bonded to the hull or keel surround as this join is laid up at a different time and can it best have only a mechanical bond. Still probably preferable to bolts however as at least there are no keel bolts to rust, fatigue or elongate. This could explain why the Magpie lost its keel. I can't imagine a full-length keelboat like a Tophat Folkboat or Clansman being fabricated in this fashion however.
Please tell us more about your reliable account of Pacific Islands fibreglass boat construction in the '80s! I was there, living & travelling through PNG, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Fiji. The fibreglass industries catered for small water tanks, Ice boxes for fishing, and at the most, 18-20foot banana boats. The larger banana boats were imported from Japan. I ordered six 20footers from Aruligo Fibreglass in Honiara and sustained their business for six months. PNG was adjusting to independence and coffee was the vision industry. Vanuatu was talking with Gaddafi and the non-aligned states, it's only industry being copra and tourism. Fiji was testing the water with military coups and a collapsed economy. Then there's the climate... well into the 30's under a tin shed and humidity most of the year like Darwin mid wet season. Even making large ice boxes, they could only work fibreglass up to 8-9am before curing became too unstable. The local watercraft industry was timber, and the commercial industry was steel. As the NZ bloke who ran Tulagi ship works advocated at the time... 'concrete for houses, fibreglass for garden furniture, and steel for boats'.
Sorry, Julesmoto, but I do have to challenge the reliability of your post:)
The first run of 'glass Adams 28s were built in Tonga. My information came from sailing the boat owned by the manufacturer when I was a sailing journalist and the boat was new.
Thanks Chris, so your information was about and Adam's 28 rather than the Mottle 33?
Nevertheless it is very interesting information. Now that I think about it it would be pretty much impossible to lay up the keel in the same manner as the hull as the thing is barely a foot wide at the widest and nobody could get down in the recess to lay the glass and roll the resin. That goes for all integral fiberglass keel yachts I guess including Brolga 33 Currawong etc and for that matter I'm damned if I know how they did tophats and folkboats unless they are just solid resin with lead shot
Select to expand quoteWavesong said..julesmoto said..
Sorry the information is on the Mottle 33 Facebook site which I no longer have access to because the cantankerous female founder of that site, who posts on here regularly saw fit to delete me from the site and bar me merely because she put up a couple of boats on here under the interesting boats for sale topic one of which I dared to criticize. Since she lives on here she will see this post and perhaps she could do something useful like quote the post again.
1. You're a dick.
2. You were booted from the Mottle group because you publicly slandered a member of that group on this forum. It was a nice, friendly sans drama group before you joined and, once again, since you were booted.
3. You're miffed because I would not pander to your completely unreasonable request to dinghy over to an unoccupied boat in a very private and secure club marina, come alongside and take photos of the cockpit.
As you well know that was not the reason and the boat in question was a Mottle which was for sale. I found that disgraceful in light of the extreme lengths which some members here went to to look at boats for you when you were buying . I am certainly not aware of slandering anyone on here and if I have done so I apologize. You obviously have serious issues and it is certainly not right that you run the Mottle 33 page as your own private friend group when it purports to be a group for public benefit. As this whole thing is worse than petty I don't propose to make any further comment on this aspect because I'm sure it will simply bore other members who are actually on here to learn something about boats or to share something about boats
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Warrina III said..
I visited Fibreglass Yachts on many ocassions in 1967 as Dad's Top hat was being built. I have no recollection of air-conditioning at the factory.
What I do recall was Mr Baker making the first Brolga where he had stretched the mold by 3' (??) and was calling it the foam flyer and to prove that he intended to enter it in the Sydney to Hobart.
Not sure what mold he stretched.
So why
"foam" flyer. I thought the hulls were solid and the decks Balsa sandwich?
rolexsydneyhobart.com/the-yachts/1968/boomerang-vii/
The first Brolga was Booerang VII. She came second in 1968 Sydney to Hobart
I recently looked at a yacht that the owner builder says he placed steel blocks in the keel cavity filling the void as tightly as he could then glassing over and continuing the process
does anybody have any knowledge of this process? (Only negative being That I could imagine if water gets in the steel then rusts and expandsTerrible for the fibreglass)
it actually sounds a lot more do able than pouring hot lead into a keel inside a boat factory
mid pouring molten lead into a keel was the process I'm wondering if any workers were poisoned
I can remember as a kid hanging around the RPA and seeing blocks of lead on a Ute or trailer ready for a keel build or re build
mite would be interesting to hear some information
surely all lead keel was laid in blocks as the Fiberglas would of reacted to the lead being poured
Select to expand quotecalcaAl said..
I recently looked at a yacht that the owner builder says he placed steel blocks in the keel cavity filling the void as tightly as he could then glassing over and continuing the process
does anybody have any knowledge of this process? (Only negative being That I could imagine if water gets in the steel then rusts and expandsTerrible for the fibreglass)
it actually sounds a lot more do able than pouring hot lead into a keel inside a boat factory
mid pouring molten lead into a keel was the process I'm wondering if any workers were poisoned
I can remember as a kid hanging around the RPA and seeing blocks of lead on a Ute or trailer ready for a keel build or re build
mite would be interesting to hear some information
surely all lead keel was laid in blocks as the Fiberglas would of reacted to the lead being poured
Pretty sure that all lead is placed into keels as shot or blocks if the keel is fibreglass or steel shell but the issue is how on earth they form a fibreglass keel integrally with the hull when the hulls are laid up from the inside and there is bugger all room in the very deep keel crevice. Of course if the keel is bolt-on then the lead keel can be cast with j-shaped bolts and cast into the keel and the threads poking out the top.
I think Boomerang vii was a one off sandwich construction built by GB for himself. She was not a Brolga and was I think about 40'. Try a fb search
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Wavesong said..julesmoto said..
Sorry the information is on the Mottle 33 Facebook site which I no longer have access to because the cantankerous female founder of that site, who posts on here regularly saw fit to delete me from the site and bar me merely because she put up a couple of boats on here under the interesting boats for sale topic one of which I dared to criticize. Since she lives on here she will see this post and perhaps she could do something useful like quote the post again.
1. You're a dick.
2. You were booted from the Mottle group because you publicly slandered a member of that group on this forum. It was a nice, friendly sans drama group before you joined and, once again, since you were booted.
3. You're miffed because I would not pander to your completely unreasonable request to dinghy over to an unoccupied boat in a very private and secure club marina, come alongside and take photos of the cockpit.
As you well know that was not the reason and the boat in question was a Mottle which was for sale. I found that disgraceful in late of the extreme lengths which some members here went to to look at boats for you when you were buying . I am certainly not aware of slandering anyone on here and if I have done so I apologize. You obviously have serious issues and it is certainly not right that you run the Mottle 33 page as your own private friend group when it purports to be a group for public benefit. As this whole thing is worse than petty I don't propose to make any further comment on this aspect because I'm sure it will simply bore other members who are actually on here to learn something about boats or to share something about boats
1st time I've logged in for a while an Lo an behold we've got a new pair of protagonist. Nice Xmas corespondents........
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said.. Of course if the keel is bolt-on then the lead keel can be cast with j-shaped bolts and cast into the keel and the threads poking out the top.
I've always wondered about how to attach a lead keel to the bottom of a boat. Presumably, the bolts would be stainless steel, but would you get galvanic corrosion from the dis-similar metals?
See in the the pages here under the alphabetic order of entries Boomerang 7 was foam sandwich and 42ft, a Prof Joubert design. Boomerang 8 was also a Prof Joubert design and looks to be the initial Brolga 33;
archive.cyca.com.au/media/3435252/1970-sydney-hobart-official-programme.pdf
See here a prior seabreeze post which explains everything.........
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/any-info-on-a-Magpie-34?page=1
Post here re encapsulated keels if you are suffering from insomnia.............
www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/encapsulated-vs-bolt-on-keels-pros-cons-109378-2.html
Select to expand quoteAchernar said..julesmoto said.. Of course if the keel is bolt-on then the lead keel can be cast with j-shaped bolts and cast into the keel and the threads poking out the top.
I've always wondered about how to attach a lead keel to the bottom of a boat. Presumably, the bolts would be stainless steel, but would you get galvanic corrosion from the dis-similar metals?
Lead is extremely stable and hence unreactive
Select to expand quoteAchernar said..julesmoto said.. Of course if the keel is bolt-on then the lead keel can be cast with j-shaped bolts and cast into the keel and the threads poking out the top.
I've always wondered about how to attach a lead keel to the bottom of a boat. Presumably, the bolts would be stainless steel, but would you get galvanic corrosion from the dis-similar metals?
Good article here, albeit too effusive and too long...........but keel bolts and their maintenance is not a trivial pursuit...........
www.sailmagazine.com/diy/how-secure-is-your-keel#:~:text=Stainless%20steel%3A%20The%20most%20common,is%20optimism%20bordering%20on%20delusion.
These people have good experience obviously..........
marskeel.com/resources/keel-bolt-material/
Another insomnia assistance link here;
forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/143673-keel-j-bolt-replacement-in-lead-keel
