No true, bronze is made of copper and tin but props can be made of 60 % copper and 40% zink...
The best way to go is nibral: nickel, brass and aluminium.... my new prop is made of nibral, a bit of zink and epoxy on to and it should be good for 40 years now...
Having had a lot to do with boats for many years, I have got to say your method of antifouling your prop is probably the worst I have ever seen, you would actually be better off leaving it uncoated. If you don't want the cost of propspeed or similar products which you can do yourself and certainly cost a lot less than $300.00 I would just use a hard antifouling. Before Propspeed we used hard antifouling for years and in some ways If you are prepared to give it a wash every six weeks it will actually last longer than Propspeed. If using Propspeed you must be meticulous with the prop preparation or it will fail.
I think the question here is will 30 bucks of zink and a bit of epoxy do any good to the prop? It think it will. So why not to apply it?
Those 350 bucks that I need to pay professionals to apply the speedprop I prefer to use it to pay a diver every 50 days to take a dive and keep my hull and prop clean.
It is the worst and the cheapest way to keep salt out of my prop but it is better than nothing..
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
I think the question here is will 30 bucks of zink and a bit of epoxy do any good to the prop? It think it will. So why not to apply it?
Those 350 bucks that I need to pay professionals to apply the speedprop I prefer to use it to pay a diver every 50 days to take a dive and keep my hull and prop clean.
It is the worst and the cheapest way to keep salt out of my prop but it is better than nothing..
Salt will not harm your prop. Dissimilar metals and electronics will. Zinc is also sacrificial, the same as the anode you should have on your shaft.
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
On top of that, it looks sexy
Paint some black stripes on it to give it that tiger look .
Going to bunning now, I will try to add black teeths. If prop looks like shark probably all lithe sea creatures will run away....
It is worth trying ....
With wet and dry, I polish mu prob to a high finish and being a shallow draft boat once evert two months or so i motor into the shallows, jump over and give the prop a wipe over. Also this area around Blairgowrie seems to be ok for slow marine fouling.
Select to expand quoteLooseChange said..Ramona said..
There is no Zinc in Bronze unless the Bronze has been made out of non virgin materials with unknown alloys.
It's generally called dezincification and is clearly visible once the prop has been hit with a disc sander. I see it regularly on the slips. One boat lost a blade off his prop just traveling a few hundred yards from his mooring to the slips. The remaining stub of the blade had about 10mm circle of bronze, the rest was like cheese.
Was this at the start -
"Tigers, before I put my new prop into the shaft would the prop benefits from 3 coats of clear pain in can from repco? it works well on my outboard!
Appreciate your opinions
Serb"
Change of product, change of store and not a lot of a appreciation......?
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
No metal at all
There is about 10mm of bronze left in the centre. That boat has gone a long time with out an anode. Make sure the diver puts on a shaft anode when he installs the prop. Close to the skeg and if possible between the prop and the skeg.
haha, I get the feeling Serb is doing a bit of trolling, and not the fishing kind..
Serb is going mad, cannot get a proper propeller for the boat to get a coffee early in the morning far from wife and kids in peace....bloody hell from woolwich to Harbour Bridge and bac 3 hours..... new propeller over pitched old propeller broken.....trying to di pitched to 11x11 ....
I looks like it is missing impossible to wake up 6 am and enjoyvmy coffee in peace at 7 near the opera house...
