Tigers, before I put my new prop into the shaft would the prop benefits from 3 coats of clear pain in can from repco? it works well on my outboard!
Appreciate your opinions
Serb
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
Tigers, before I put my new prop into the shaft would the prop benefits from 3 coats of clear pain in can from repco? it works well on my outboard!
Appreciate your opinions
Serb
Yeah mate, I'd do 6 coats though - might get 15kph!! 
The anode that you are putting on the shaft will protect the prop from electrolysis and the antifoul will keep the growth at bay, prop speed or other antifoul applied as per manufacturers instructions ie priming, drying time before immersion etc is the correct way to do it if you don't want to replace the prop again
Ok, my thoughts where to apply a can spray with high zink content in order to prevent sea life on prop
Serb, over the years I have read countless threads and posts on other forums by people either enquiring or boasting about all sorts of alternatives to the proprietary products like Propspeed. They've included zinc based paints, heavily scribbled Sharpie, lanolin grease, diy silicone and so on. If any of them were consistently effective, Propspeed etc would not exist because the news would have gotten out and no-one would be needlessly spending a couple of hundred bucks. If you want to try your own experiment go for your life, but just remember that it is just that: an experiment. But if it fails, then as you dive every two weeks or so to clean your prop (because even the slightest fouling will kiss your much-desired 8hp hull-speed bye-bye), you'll have plenty of time to reflect on what you'll be doing next time you slip..........
For the record, my first experience with Propspeed was a failure due to a pitted prop and poor application by a lousy contractor. Lanolin grease was utterly useless and hard hull AF just flaked off. Propspeed applied to the new prop by a good worker has served me well.
Cheers, Graeme
Sorry,
I mentioned the wrong thing. I mentioned prospered instead of antifuling.....sorry my bad.
I am spply99% zink over and then epoxy. The idea is to have a nice smooth area so i can clean it every fortnight with a sponge and keep in nice and smooth. In addition I can be wrong but zink and epoxy will prevent from oxidation a bit.
Any thoughts
Good morning Serb.
You will get a LOT of replies on this post.
At first you mentioned CLEAR paint ( benefits from 3 coats of clear pain in can from repco)
I thought you were talking about clear lacquer.
As for using zinc spray. You have nothing to loose.
It will either work or it won't and that is my experience with PropSpeed ( professionally applied).
I will be using zinc spray in a month or so . So we can compare success rates. (Japan vs Australia. Cold vs warm water)
As I say it is your choice and nothing to loose.
Here is a link to a bloke in America who has had some success.
www.sailnet.com/threads/a-successful-experiment.340418/#post-2051731644
gary
I'd bitch about the cost of Propspeed every 12-18 months when the boat got pulled for antifoul.
I also never found anyone that found a better solution for protecting your prop.
I hate when you have little or no drive from a dirty prop, instead of relaxing and enjoying the motor/sail I'm gritting my teeth the whole time. The thought of it alone was enough to turn me off moving the boat anywhere.
I'd try saving money elsewhere, but each to their own. I hope it works for you Serb!
Hi Shaggy.
For me it is not about the cost.
It is finding something (anything ) that lasts longer than 3 -4 months where I am located.
This is the prime aquaculture spot in Japan. Oysters, scallops, and variety of seaweed THRIVE here.
Not to mention barnacles!!
There are no bottom cleaning diving services and it is too bloody cold 8 months of the year for me.
So I will pace Serb and see how we go.
If gal spry is worse that propspeed (here) it has to be really bad.
Looks good to me Serb.
gary
Select to expand quotegarymalmgren said..
Hi Shaggy.
For me it is not about the cost.
It is finding something (anything ) that lasts longer than 3 -4 months where I am located.
This is the prime aquaculture spot in Japan. Oysters, scallops, and variety of seaweed THRIVE here.
Not to mention barnacles!!
There are no bottom cleaning diving services and it is too bloody cold 8 months of the year for me.
So I will pace Serb and see how we go.
If gal spry is worse that propspeed (here) it has to be really bad.
Looks good to me Serb.
gary
I hear you Gary,
Having never sailed in Japan I would happily take your word over mine. It sounds like maintenance has a whole new set of challenges there! But for Aus waters Propspeed still the best solution I have found.
IMHO.
Here is,after applying zink and epoxy should be easy to clean with a sponge every 2 weeks to keep It clean
What was the prop made from. Steel? Bronze? Plastic? I'm wondering about dissimilar metals. If you apply some metals to others in a seawater environment, you make a little battery that will eventually eat one of those metals. If the prop is steel, the sea will eat the zinc in preference to the steel. If it is bronze ... it makes no sense to zinc to bronze? If it is plastic, it makes no sense to apply zinc to an inert material?
Serb
Can you explain your process again?
Did you spray (grey) zinc ( cold galvanize) paint AND THEN yellow epoxy over that?
The zinc paint is what (theoretically) repels marine growth.
If you coated the gal paint with epoxy paint I can't see your reasoning.
gary
Reasoning is the epoxy will not last and than hopfuly zink will protect the prop... prop is made of nickel bronze and aluminium ni br al
On top of that, it looks sexy
The epoxy might look good to you but....
If I were a barnacle , it would look like a great place to attach.
And with a few barnacles you would have no chance of achieving your desired speed under motor.
gary
The idea was to make it smooth and every 14 days pass it with a sponge ... at that stage it will be a slime ...I will do my best to keep it ?? %
The zinc anode on the prop shaft and the rudder will present much much more protection than a bit of cold gal, so the sexy epoxy paint tell us it's 2 pak not some oil based paint with epoxy written on the can ?
Unfortunately the cheapest **** bunnings $12 with some epoxy in it....
The whole idea is to skip propspeed quoted 300 bucks and only pay for antifouling this year...and than next pay for both.... this year was heavy on my wallet....
Select to expand quoteSerb1980 said..
Unfortunately the cheapest **** bunnings $12 with some epoxy in it....
The whole idea is to skip propspeed quoted 300 bucks and only pay for antifouling this year...and than next pay for both.... this year was heavy on my wallet....
Next time do all the work yourself and get the prop speed off another person or small shipwrights. $100 every time.
This time was the right occasion because I had a new propeller, next time will be no time
Select to expand quoteherbyburger said..
What's velox like compared to prop speed?
Cant compare as I havn't used prop speed. Velox works OK ( in the Med). Always get some small areas it comes off after 1 season.
All the big motor boats here use prop speed. They say its worth it for the fuel saving.
Ensure you instal a shaft anode on to a clean piece of shaft when the prop goes back on. Close as possible to the skeg. I'm not too concerned about the paint finish on the prop. It will work Ok till the first time you hit something then it will perform about the same as hard antifoul. Get used to snorkeling on a regular basis and keep it clean as possible. The new prop looks like it should be on a motor boat with those size blades.
What about cleaning up the old prop. Hit it with an abrasive pad or disc to see what colour the metal is now. Especially around the stub area of the missing blade. I'm curious to see if there are pink spots caused by dezincification. That blade came off for a reason and when the zinc goes missing it takes very little to break off a blade. The bronze ends up with the same strength as cheese!
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Ensure you instal a shaft anode on to a clean piece of shaft when the prop goes back on. Close as possible to the skeg. I'm not too concerned about the paint finish on the prop. It will work Ok till the first time you hit something then it will perform about the same as hard antifoul. Get used to snorkeling on a regular basis and keep it clean as possible. The new prop looks like it should be on a motor boat with those size blades.
What about cleaning up the old prop. Hit it with an abrasive pad or disc to see what colour the metal is now. Especially around the stub area of the missing blade. I'm curious to see if there are pink spots caused by dezincification. That blade came off for a reason and when the zinc goes missing it takes very little to break off a blade. The bronze ends up with the same strength as cheese!
There is no Zinc in Bronze unless the Bronze has been made out of non virgin materials with unknown alloys.
