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General Sail making Construction Blokarts Events & Competition

kiwi307

488 posts

kiwi307

488 posts

1 May 2011 6:09am

And if you were in your "wet" yacht , you tie one end of any rope to the stern somewhere and trail them behind for a while, takes all the kinks and crap out of the rope/sheet what ever.

Nikrum

TAS

1972 posts

Nikrum

TAS, 1972 posts

1 May 2011 10:13am

Thanks but no thanks.. The places I sail would only make them worse.
Ron

desertyank

1264 posts

desertyank

1264 posts

1 May 2011 8:59am

kiwi307 said...

And if you were in your "wet" yacht , you tie one end of any rope to the stern somewhere and trail them behind for a while, takes all the kinks and crap out of the rope/sheet what ever.

Calf ropers take their special ropes and drag them behind a horse for a few laps before they use them. I don't remember exactly why, but I imagine they take on a different texture, and maybe it straightens them out too.

j murray

947 posts

j murray

SA, 947 posts

1 May 2011 10:37am

Hey desert... bloody hell mmmmmmmmmmaaaaaaaatttttttte

I can assure you there are NO calf ropers out here

I wouldn't say that loud in a pub here, thats a peeda file term

" Heavens to Betsy......OH, Lordy NO !!"

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

1 May 2011 11:24am

Nikrum said...

Does the Fabric Softener help???

Ron

Always used fabric softener on my climbing and abseileng, ropes makes them more pliable and less susceptible to tangling and they run through blocks/pulleys much more easily.
If your sheet rope is too long it is more likely to tangle when you shove the excess between your legs to keep it out of the way.
Yes tie your figure 8 away from the end of your rope and if it is extra long, tie the free end to your belt, as if you lose grip on the rope it is easy to get at on your belt

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

1 May 2011 11:27am

j murray said...

Hey desert... bloody hell mmmmmmmmmmaaaaaaaatttttttte

I can assure you there are NO calf ropers out here

I wouldn't say that loud in a pub here, thats a peeda file term

" Heavens to Betsy......OH, Lordy NO !!"

And you know this because.........................

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

1 May 2011 11:31am

Chook2 said...
[brIThe 12mm dyneema (that has never tangled) that I bought at $5.60 per/mtr wouldn't fit through my ratchet block. so had to change back to 10mm cheap stuff. (local boat shop only had 3mtrs of 10mm in stock at the time.)
Budget stuff is only tie down rope for a trailer really, as the weekend sailing proved. It now has more fluff along it than the neighbour's cat and lies about as straight as well.
At the end of the day, you gets what ya pay for.

I know I'm soft, but I have trouble with carpal tunnel syndrome, so have to look after the wrists.

The local boat shop, has promised me that the 8.3mtrs of 10mm dyneema will be in next week.

Chook, you will find that your ratchet block is what brings the fluff up on rope of any quality

sn

2775 posts

WA, 2775 posts

1 May 2011 11:57am

The cheaper rope (like the stuff from bumblings) tends to have an outer casing that is a bit too sloppy for the inner rope core.

One of mine was a bit worse than usual, so I hooked one end to my cars bumper, cut the other (melted) end off to free it up, then stretched the outer casing by using a pair of heavy leather gloves and just gripping the rope near the bumper and hauling back until I got to the end of the rope, cut the excess outer casing off (about 3' worth iirc)and remelted the end.
now it runs through my elcheapo recycled pulleys much better!

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

1 May 2011 8:28pm

Did the same with same sourced rope and ended up with extra 5 mtrs from a 20 mtr rope. Still washed with fabric softener to make more pliable.

Chook2

1249 posts

Chook2

WA, 1249 posts

1 May 2011 9:15pm

Ta for that guys.

Looks like I will be on laundry duty some time this week eh??

I'm on school holidays. Thats why it is dead calm here and raining.
Always the case eh???

desertyank

1264 posts

desertyank

1264 posts

9 May 2011 7:45am

~~Ropes~~ Lines and knots; pretty basic........ NOT!

I have always used the kitchen gas stove to melt the ends of my lines together, but sometimes the perfectly melted outer does not melt to the perfectly melted inner line, creating a perfect disaster..... Any tips to the perfect the perfect melt?

Also, the prusik hitches look great on the LLM boom

And they're VERY easy to slip fore/aft on the boom to adjust. Once I find the perfect place, the rope through the boom might be more permanent, but this looks great

Thanks again for the help

John

Nikrum

TAS

1972 posts

Nikrum

TAS, 1972 posts

9 May 2011 10:00am

Those Prussics look good. But, humour me, try the Formation of the Prussic Loop I suggested earlier then do the Hitch. Getting the loop size right is the hardest bit but you have given yourself a head start with those knots.. If the Loop Join is at the back of the Prussic where the Block part comes out it will rest against the knot and looks very neat indeed. The ends of the line. I usually tie in a permanent loop then Melt the end and using a cold piece of metal flatten the end in a mushroom back against the knot. That way the tail can't creep back through. No nasty Frayed Tails spoiling your efforts.

Ron

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

9 May 2011 4:50pm

desertyank said...

~~Ropes~~ Lines and knots; pretty basic........ NOT!

Best way if you are worried about that happening with kermantle(ker= kernel{inside} mantle= outside) rope is to slide the mantle back exposing the kernel which you then cut slightly shorter and melt leaving a smooth finish then slide the mantle forward over the melted kernel and also melt leaving it slightly pointed. This pointed end allows easier threading into pulleys, blocks etc.
I find a candle to be the best heat source for rope ends.

Gizmo

2865 posts

Gizmo

SA, 2865 posts

9 May 2011 8:41pm

A small soldering iron works well on rope to cut and seal them, a little slower than a flame but it produces a nice neat end.... and it doesn't turn black like a candle melted end.

Nikrum

TAS

1972 posts

Nikrum

TAS, 1972 posts

9 May 2011 10:31pm

Let's face it after a bit of use they all fail. Even properly Hot Knifed cuts and they are square and not particularly nice to handle.. I use a Small butane Blow Torch, which gives of some intense heat and the knots finish up with nice solid taper a fecal analogy could describe it[}:)]

. but even with the heat involved after a lot of use the ends have to be redone. None of it, Like Life, is permanent. Don't be lazy just live with the inevitable.
Ron

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

9 May 2011 10:57pm

Gizmo said...

A small soldering iron works well on rope to cut and seal them, a little slower than a flame but it produces a nice neat end.... and it doesn't turn black like a candle melted end.

They only turn black if'n you hold the rope over the flame instead of near using radiated heat to do the melting.
The spelunkers I new often used their carbide lamps for rope repairs on the go.

Test pilot 1

1430 posts

Test pilot 1

WA, 1430 posts

9 May 2011 10:57pm

Gizmo said...

A small soldering iron works well on rope to cut and seal them, a little slower than a flame but it produces a nice neat end.... and it doesn't turn black like a candle melted end.

They only turn black if'n you hold the rope over the flame instead of near using radiated heat to do the melting.
The spelunkers I new often used their carbide head lamps for rope repairs on the go.

Hiko

1229 posts

Hiko

1229 posts

10 May 2011 6:11am

I use the outside of the nozzle of my heatgun Works for me

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kiwi307

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j murray

Test pilot 1

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sn

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Chook2

desertyank

Nikrum

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Gizmo

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Hiko

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