bracing rear of #3

got home from sailing a 5.8 today and found Dan and mate working on #2 and starting #4

Phil
The problem is I still haven't anything to sail with you if we met
I'm hoping to contact Cory to see if we can get a better price for bulk wheels

Hi Ian, I am slowly building a Lefroy Mini, time is still a little scarce, bathroom reno nearly done, but still heaps of work to get through before our Christmas Shutdown. Hope to get this one up and running soon though, once its running I'll give you a yell so we might be able to catch up and compare notes and yachts, might also be able to give the other bigger alum one a run at the same time. Give us a call if you feel inspired to chat about the projects.


Don't panic I havn't had time to cut it down yet, just had to try it on



Front end - angles as per Pauls design



Rear axles prior to fitment to removable axle sections. Axle shafts are 18.2mm A4-70 Stainless Steel with Bearing Surfaces from 2205 Duplex (have a bit of this size and material sitting around the workshop from work projects) the axles have a roll thread M20 that I am going to use with a Nyloc Nut to secure the wheels.

Till next time

Corey

The front end was a bit of a challange to get right, the one in the pics is actually the second one that was built, the first was put together to confirm all the angles and lengths, during this process I found that it only had to be out by a ****teinth to affect the alignment by quite a lot. Once I got the shape and alignment sorted I made the second one, this is the one in the pics and on the current chassis. I agree that the way you described building the front end from RHS would be much easier for most builders, but I do love a challange. I bent the first pipe to produce the main body in one piece but my pipe bender produces a large radius that would make it very long to clear the back edge of the tire, the sample one and the real one were fabricated using a short radius pipe elbow (should be able to get them from Blackwoods or your local hose supplies, I get the from Tony Powell Hose Supplies for a couple of dollars each). The stub axle passes through the main arm and is welded on bolt sides, the main steering shaft also passes through the body of the main assembly and is again welded on both sides, time will tell if it is stiff enough to cope with the stingray holes at Sandgate.

The wheels currently have the standard Falshaw bearings, once I get the whole thing together and sorted I will probably try to find some better bearings, the don't seem to bad but their sizing is not real good, when I machined the stub for the front axle I machined it about 5 thou under 1 inch to allow the bearings to slide on easliy, when I tried to fit the wheel I found that one of the bearings would slide on easily and the second had to be tapped on, the next stub (the one on the real front end) was machine about 10 thou under size, now the wheel mounts much easier. Do you guys have a specific bearing that you use?.

landyacht said...

thems huge braces folks. dont forget to keep the weight down. I use 3/8or even 5/16 round if you want a really light one.
keep it light , keep it light

In your post "Build a Landyacht. Lake Lefroy Mini Landyacht" you suggest using 10mm-12mm round bar 240mm long, I used 20mm sq tube 1.6mm gauge 300mm long,- this would give about .035-.090 kilograms/side heavier.

iand said...

landyacht said...

thems huge braces folks. dont forget to keep the weight down. I use 3/8or even 5/16 round if you want a really light one.
keep it light , keep it light

In your post "Build a Landyacht. Lake Lefroy Mini Landyacht" you suggest using 10mm-12mm round bar 240mm long, I used 20mm sq tube 1.6mm gauge 300mm long,- this would give about .035-.090 kilograms/side heavier.

If yours is lighter ,you are righter
dont forget that , although you dont want the chassis to flex backwards you do want it to flex upward, IM(NS)HO , think the round rod would do that whereas the fatter square tube my actually be stiffer