Something I haven't seen/heard is what type of tyres you run on these style rims? I assumed they were motorbike tyres but hookworms are for mountain bikes...

I am running Maxxis High rollers 26x2.5 with the tread blocks removed
They have served me well on the beach but dont think they would last on seal or gravel I think Maxxis Hookworms would be better for that
I removed the tread blocks with a sharpened hacksaw blade set at 45 degrees in the frame and soapy water as a lubricant and finished off with a 115mm flap disc

Hookworms arrived just in time for the longweekend
meanwhile , the kids were looking a little hot and bothered ,so I suggested that they paint the class5. it was looking a tad boring in plain silver. they kinda came out like this


I have no idea where the got the idea for the elven warrior

Its amazing that we can get things cheaper and no freight from overseas.
Keep up the pics

Sucked you in
Cheers
Vic

What was the final layup of material used, woven/chopped.

As for tires I have used the maxxis hookworms since I built my first wheels, they are very tough and rarely get punctured,

Will you build a new seat for the new one.

Cheers
Vic

the wheel layup I ended using was 2x8ozwoven with 2xchopped strand in between also a layer of carbon over the ribs. the carbon is layed between the chopped strand layers. this was my best compromise for weight/strength. I didnt use any coremat as it gave stiffness but tended to fail at lower loads.
the bond between the ally rims and the polyester resin layup was with an epoxy glue called conglue.. the 2 rims are tigwelded by rob Carr, a retired manual arts teacher in Boulder, who is currently building his 2nd mini(looks great too)
the wheel ended up with the baering housing from a packing of polyester,cabosil ,chopped CF and encased in all the cloth,chopped strand layers.
the pod to fit theyacht will be a similar layup with carbon in the stressed areas. but i will start a strip plug for a mold this week.
any hints for that would be appreciated as I havent done one before.
I brought home a pile of wood from the restoration of the courthouse that I will rip down for the strips,( whta size is best Vic).
happy new year too, home after being flooded out of the lake

Paul. Any chance of doing this one as a "How to build a body in GRP" thread? I'm signing myself up for a 1 day fibreglassing course later in the year (missed the January one), as apart from the good old 'gobbo' (Isopon P38 and P40) used on cars I've never touched the stuff, so a nice set of this is what I did photos would be great. Very odd that I've never used it with a Reliant Scimitar and a Tiger Avon in the garage - hey ho.

Cheers Col

aus230 said...

Paul I used 1/4" thick x 1" wide strips. that leaves enough thickness to be planed and sanded.
My Kayak Below plus a strip building you tube site.

Would that we could all be artistes like thee.

Just a tip to make thinks easier Paul. Run the strips through a thicknesser it makes things a lot easier, also put plastic or tape on the whale back where the strips will touch so that the glue will not stick to it.(ordinary wood glue is fine)

Don't glue the strip that runs along the center of either side of the hull as it has to be opened to remove the whale back.

The outside is finished and covered with woven glass before separating the body

Cheers
Vic

Although Paul is making a strip built plug that will become the eventual mold it is possible to just build a strip seat, they turn out light as fiberglass and very strong,
The best thing about working with strip built is that you can make just about any shape.
My first class5 was strip built and is now being refurnish by a friend to enter the racing completion again.

Cheers
aus230

lots of great hints there Vic,pity I was out the shed all the time
so its glued to the frames,and also strengthened with gyprock glue at the edges where the wood will sand real thin. ends will be in plaster /bog/
keep in mind that this is a plug for a mold, rather than a 1 off,so it needs to be really rigid.
. hopefully this will mean there will be a mold for those who follow in our footsteps Vic
strangely, some of the measurements came straight from the old pacific magic seat I had in the loft.
it may look huge but I keep checking against my mini and the overall dimensions are the same


actally , I was hiding in my shed when mrs stig came down to see how bookcase number 2 was coming along, lets say busted wasnt quite the word!!!!!

[}:)] forgot to mention, I use a small hand plane and spoke shave first to get it to sanding stage. Lots of fun and plenty of mess.
Cheers
Vic

aus230 said...

I am going to knock up another 26", Mainly to try a scaff tube center, I will try 2 layers 8oz woven and 1 chopped mat, will still use 8 spokes. See how it goes before building another.

See you guys on the 18th.

cheers
aus230

15th?
didnt want do damage the 1920's sweetheart blade on my 1910 bailey plane so i just attacked the great whale of a thing with a 10mmwide belt on my makita sander.
it would have to be one of my best powertool investments, bought it 20 years ago and still going strong.i even sanded the jarrah and pine floors of my house last year.onto bogging and shaping the ends now before sealing and working on a really fine smooth finish

finer sanding is with a palm sander that I bought for finishing gyprock,nice little bosch,gives a great finish.
Im trying to avoid any tricky ,tight inside curves this time around

My very high tech disc truing machine