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Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
22 Jul 2010 12:39pm


Hello all!

New user here. Im a mechanical engineer student, and have been contemplating building a land yacht for a long time now. The time has finally arrived to do so! As a college student, I will strive to keep this as cheap as possible, and as a mech. engineer student, as clean and streamlined and well designed as possible. With this in mind, I turn to all of you for advice and thoughts.

So far, I have collected materials. The sail I intend to use is from a 1972 Atlanta Kolibri Koralle Jr. 12 foot sailboat. The mast for this boat is 17' 4", flying about 85 sq feet of sail. I dont know if this number includes the jib. I understand that many people like to trim their sails for a flatter sail and higher top speed.

Question 1: What are peoples thoughts on this sail, and it being used as a land yacht sail? Would it be ok to use as is, without trimming?

Question 2: What is the reason behind not using a jib on a land yacht? Would the use of one likely cause the front tire to 'spin out', as the center of effort is further forward on the craft?

(Boat information page) www.boats.com/boat-details/Glenmore-Sailboats-Ltd.-Kolibri-2-12/136710

(Boat picture page) www.rvharvey.com/kolibri.htm

Now, thats what I have for the sails. On to the wheels. Today I collected several different kinds of wheels. I have attached a photo. The largest are 16x6.50, while the smaller are.... 9xsomthing? I have been contemplating using the 3 large ones. The main surface this will be sailed on shall be the beach, with some use in a parking lot. I have been thinking, that instead of the 16x6.5 wheel for the front wheel, I should make use of a wheelbarrow tire, as its profile is round.

Question 3: What are your opinions on these wheels? Would the larger ones be suitable for use on a land yacht? Thoughts on a wheel barrow wheel for the front tire?

Now with all this in mind, the wheels, the mast, etc, what would people think as a appropriate width for the wheel base, and what do you estimate the performance to be? My goal with this is to go as fast as possible, for as cheap as possible, and have fun.

Thanks everyone!
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
22 Jul 2010 1:20pm
Welcome to the forum Niykon!
I think a good place to start when thinking about landyachts is how they differ from water yachts
To push a sailboat through the water the initial resistance is quite low and rapidly gets larger due to wavemaking heeling effect etc etc
A landyacht has quite a lot of initial resistance but the curve of resistance is flatter so the potential speed is higher
Because of that speed wind drag becomes a very real thing and a single high aspect sail is far more efficient at these higher speeds than a main and jib setup
Think of a slow biplane versus a single wing fighter
The next thing to think of is weight To get moving easily lighter is better
As matierial and labour cost for a bad design is similar to a good design it makes sense to try for a good design straight off
We all like to experiment but starting from a good design that has been proven
can shortcircuit a lot of mistakes
There are some free plans on this forum for a very good yacht that is hard to beat for performance and cost
If you base your thinking around this yacht the LLF mini you will be on the right track and avoid the pitfalls of many Me included
Regarding the wheels some wheel barrow wheels have proven to be fine some have not due to strength Think about the weight Around 4kg with smooth tyres should be the aim Bmx wheels on the front have proven to be OK
Good luck and there is plenty of advice and encouragement right here on this forum
cheers Hiko


Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
22 Jul 2010 2:38pm
Hey all again!

I also have this sail as an option. Well, actually I have 2 sails this size in my garage. The issue is that I dont have a mast, or a boom. It requires a 520 cm mast, and the longest I have available is a 460 cm mast. That, and I dont have any money, or know how to tell if these masts would be appropriate.





Question 4: Which sail would be better? And does anyone know if its possible to extend a windsurfing mast 60 cm?
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
22 Jul 2010 2:55pm
OH Wow that NX sail I would say would recut into a very good landyacht sail
Most landyacht sails are around 4 to 5 sq metres
There is instructions on this forum on how to do it if you have the means
Do you have the means ? There is a post on this forum where a similar sail to that was made into two landyacht sails Try the sailmaking section
460 masts will be fine I have two of those and yes they can be extended
Hiko
j murray
j murray
SA
947 posts
SA, 947 posts
22 Jul 2010 5:07pm
Niykon.....gidday, welcome. You have the bug too, I have been looking at your

wheels, i would describe them as sorta agricultural, heavy and some would be

hard to attach, needing a hub, exta weight. All wheels will work, what is best

to try for is the simplest, lightest. That will give you the best speed, heavy

wheels will take the hardest pounding. Your experimenting will get you the best

results. There is mobs of wheel info here, troll back over the pages in the forum,

someone , somewhere will have given it a go before. Best of luck.
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
22 Jul 2010 5:12pm
Hi NIYKON
The article that talks about altering a similar sail to yours is in the sailmaking section headed
SAIL CUT POCKET ROCKET
Hope this helps
Hiko
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
22 Jul 2010 6:06pm
Hiko said...

OH Wow that NX sail I would say would recut into a very good landyacht sail
Most landyacht sails are around 4 to 5 sq metres
There is instructions on this forum on how to do it if you have the means
Do you have the means ? There is a post on this forum where a similar sail to that was made into two landyacht sails Try the sailmaking section
460 masts will be fine I have two of those and yes they can be extended
Hiko


Well, The idea behind getting such large sails, was the fact that I would like to go very quickly :P Im moving from sailing catamarans, to getting into land yachts. If most land yachts are 4-5 sq meters, then my 11.5 sq meter windsurfer, or my 7.8ish sq meter sail boat sail should be able to take me faster! One would think anyways, I know it doesn't quite work like that, but I can wish right?

Anyways, I was thinking that since my sails are so large, I would need larger wheels. Thats why I chose those ones , j murray. But you are right in describing them as agricultural. They are off of a riding mower, I do believe.
bazl
bazl
WA
704 posts
WA, 704 posts
22 Jul 2010 6:40pm
As I understand it:

if you want to go really fast you need a strong wind and a smallish high aspect sail.

Good quality wheelbarrow wheels are known to be good for 60mph, better if they are balanced.

Big sails work better with low winds.

Depending on where in the US you are maybe you could hook up with NALSA
http://www.nalsa.org/index.htm

sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
23 Jul 2010 7:39am
the biggest hurdle to overcome with a landyacht is weight.

you are best finding lightweight wheels like the 8" x 4" plastic fallshaw wheels many of us use here, they have the added bonus of taking cheap bearings or high quality sealed bearings- and as an extra bonus- plastic wheels dont rust when used on salt lakes!

however, if you have to use the mower wheels you already have- reduce the tyre weight by shaving the tread off with a "razor blade plane" which can be purchased for about $5.00 at any hobby shop.

also try and reduce the stub axle and hub's weight by finding someone that has access to a lathe and get them to take as much metal off as possible.

I tried to use lightened suzuki hatch 10" wheels and hubs for my first version of a lake lefroy mini land yacht- and it was just too heavy to work.

The plastic wheels were magic when I fitted them.
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
23 Jul 2010 2:11pm
sn said...

the biggest hurdle to overcome with a landyacht is weight.

you are best finding lightweight wheels like the 8" x 4" plastic fallshaw wheels many of us use here, they have the added bonus of taking cheap bearings or high quality sealed bearings- and as an extra bonus- plastic wheels dont rust when used on salt lakes!

however, if you have to use the mower wheels you already have- reduce the tyre weight by shaving the tread off with a "razor blade plane" which can be purchased for about $5.00 at any hobby shop.

also try and reduce the stub axle and hub's weight by finding someone that has access to a lathe and get them to take as much metal off as possible.

I tried to use lightened suzuki hatch 10" wheels and hubs for my first version of a lake lefroy mini land yacht- and it was just too heavy to work.

The plastic wheels were magic when I fitted them.


Hey sn, thanks for your comments.

I really like the idea of lightening the wheels. Im not sure about using a hand planer though. This would seem like it would lead to issues with balancing the tires. Perhaps it could actually be done with a jig, to remove rubber symmetrically. But as far as tooling goes, ive got a full shop, more or less. It includes a TIG welder, CNC mill, lathe, pipe bender, etc. So I hope to make quite a fancy land yacht :)

landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
23 Jul 2010 3:40pm
Gday Niykon, welcome to your new addiction.
a couple of suggestions
since youve already got the tools and know how to use them , my suggestion would be to start with something with plans that has been a proven performer
ie the Lake lefroy Mini. Although an experienced metal worker my think it all looks to small and simple, what you are also learning is some simple basic principals regarding weight,balance,steering orientation , material sourcing,wheels and tyres.................
most of the mini builders here have either built thier own designs first, then kicked themselves and built a LLM, or built a LLM then gone on to experiment on thier own ideas. The chassis construction would only represent an easy weekend for somebody woth experience in the tools and techniques
Having built and sailed such a simple yacht you will find the desire to build your own design happens very quickly, and many of the basic questions youve asked here will answer themselves. there are plenty of options for the basic materials
keep in mind that a yacht the size and agility of the LLM can be easily sailed on tight little carparks as well as on your lovely US drylakes.
the best speed for one of these little yachts is 65mph in your speeds and 30mph is possible in a carpark.
I have been warned by the law on 2 occasions for speeding in small carparks
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
24 Jul 2010 5:55pm
Hey all, Had some photos to post today, but it says the server is too busy. Any ideas whats up or why I cant post photos?
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
25 Jul 2010 4:04pm
Hey all! Got another day towards starting the build. Today I collected some more materials, items and photos.

First up! front wheel



I pressed out the crappy bearings, and pressed in some nice sealed high speed bearings. Come later, I will get it balanced. You guys think it will make a good front wheel?

Also, while I was looking around, I came across this:





It is an aluminum solar car wheel, fitting 20" hookworm tires. I thought it was ironic, seeing as it mounts the same kind of wheel everyone seems to be using for their land yachts. Unfortunately this one is damaged. But, its in good enough shape that perhaps a mold could be taken from it, and the wheel reproduced in carbon fibre. Would anyone be interested in something like that?

-Next up, building materials. I have aluminum available, but im worried about the material properties, crack propagation, the need for heat treatment, etc. Do people use aluminum much? What kind of dimensions are we talking about?
-I also have steel available. Again, what kind of dimensions are we talking about?

-Next up: Titanium!

I have Ti-2 and Ti-64 titanium tubing available. Again, I worry about the material properties again. I think it would be far to flexible, and not quite rigid enough. l also dont have a ton of it, and want to save it for a later project, or perhaps my uber land yacht, if i build another after this. Thoughts on titanium as a material?

Next up: Ive decded upon the rough direction I would like to go with my first yacht. I understand everyones advice on using the LL mini as a basis for my first yacht. However, since im going to be using the sailboat sail and mast for this one, I think the LL mini is well.... far too mini. I think with that sail on, it will just be too tippey. So instead, I think I shall go with something like this:


I can tie the mainstays to the two wheels on the sides, and the front to the front wheel. If I want to, I can make use of the jib with that front mainstay, but lets start small.

Thoughts people?
iand
iand
QLD
243 posts
QLD, 243 posts
25 Jul 2010 11:35pm
I think one of the thing you're not taking to account is with a landyacht, they are fast, very fast. the sail works on apparent wind ie. if you're going at 50 mph (80 kph) the apparent wind is probably around 60 mph (100 kph),this is a gale force wind which the boat sail will not work well in, a cut down windsurfer sail is probably only second to a proper landyacht sail. A jib- well you just don't have the time, things happen fast at 30-50 mph and above
The yacht you indicated would have most likely have a max 5.5sq m sail , the boat sail around 7.9sq m.
The tyre on the rim on the other hand, I would say is ideal
Test pilot 1
Test pilot 1
WA
1430 posts
WA, 1430 posts
25 Jul 2010 9:43pm
A jib will only slow you down. A yacht like the one pictured does not use fore stays. as they tend to disturb the air flow to your sail. Mostly the mast is self supporting (dont need stays)
aus230
aus230
WA
1660 posts
WA, 1660 posts
25 Jul 2010 10:42pm
If you build a yacht like the one in your post you may have to rethink your sail size, These yachts can be a hand full with a 5.5m sail let alown anything larger.

They require a lot of tuning (attached a pic of aus230 before I had it tuned propely) Landyachts post on cutting down sails should help you make a nice 5m sail.

If I was you I would probly build a mini first as it will give you a better understanding of how it all works.

I have attached a pic of clemco designe it you end up going that way, also the post of how I went about mine.
Cheers
aus230

There is a lot of advice from all in the post below it helped me a lot, thanks everyone.

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40576



Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
26 Jul 2010 12:14am
But thats the thing guys.... I dont have a sail that I can go chop up. The one that I can go chop up, I cant afford to buy a mast for it.... And I dont have a sewing machine, etc to modify it. The only sail I have is the one for the boat :/
Clemco
Clemco
430 posts
430 posts
26 Jul 2010 7:39am
Hi Niykon. Glad to hear you want to build a class 5. I am sure we can all help you with this project. The sketch posted above is the basic layout of my class 5 I built 10yrs ago. The green painted tubes are steel 57mm OD x 3.2mm wall thickness commonly known as boiler tube over here. The silver tubes are aluminum 48.4mm x 4.5mm wall thickness (scaffold tube) T6 or better. The Titanium could be useful if you have the facility and know-how to weld it. What sizes and lengths do you have? I would suggest you save it for your second build once you have experimented with a steel frame.
I wouldn't bother with the boat sail. An old windsurf sail would be a better starting point. I made my first class 5 sail from a cut down windsurf sail. There must be a sailmaker you could go to to make a few alterations. You could do the cutting and stick it together with double-sided tape. The sewing would not cost a lot. The mast you can make out of standard aluminum tubes riveted together. I will post a plan for you.
The wheels: You are on the right track with the solar car wheels, lightness and diameter will reduce rolling resistance. The solar car wheels look a bit fragile to me. The rear wheels on a landyacht have to take a lot of side force. I would look around for some old cast aluminum motorcycle wheels with narrow rims. Probably hard to find now. Or make your own fibreglass wheels using a mountain bike rim. The front wheel you can use a plastic BMX 20" (or 16") buy new at a bike shop or scrounge from a recycle yard.
If you had anything to do with making that solar car in the pic I think you will have no problem coming up with a very nice low drag pod seat.

Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
26 Jul 2010 9:04am
Lol, I did indeed have a part in building that solar car there :P I designed the entire body, from a-z, as well extensive fluid flow analysis in SolidWorks, as well as scaled wind tunnel testing on a 3-d printed model of the body. Heres a bit better photo of the car :P

As far as the facilities and knowhow to work with the Ti, I am indeed fluent in this as well. We usually let the CNC mill do the machining, but I was one of the 3 welders for our car, which was constructed from 90% titanium.

Anyways, thanks for the encouragement. Its good to finally hear a "go for it!"

Also, I would like to hear more about this DIY mast of yours. Can I get more info?
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
26 Jul 2010 4:34pm
If you have access to good materials and good design tools GO FOR IT !!!! ( but try and keep it in the design specs for that class)
The use of titanium would be interesting on a LLMini built with a steel weighs about 25-30 kg, the use of titanium may reduce it say 10kg, but remember the main weight factor for small yachts is the actual pilot.
As for sewing machines and old masts its amazing what you can find when you put feelers out at work, schools or clubs.
If your also into modern design I hope you have seen these yachts.... mind you some are just concepts and haven't been built
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=55001
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53255

















Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
26 Jul 2010 4:22pm
Gizmo said...

If you have access to good materials and good design tools GO FOR IT !!!! ( but try and keep it in the design specs for that class)
The use of titanium would be interesting on a LLMini built with a steel weighs about 25-30 kg, the use of titanium may reduce it say 10kg, but remember the main weight factor for small yachts is the actual pilot.
As for sewing machines and old masts its amazing what you can find when you put feelers out at work, schools or clubs.
If your also into modern design I hope you have seen these yachts.... mind you some are just concepts and haven't been built
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=55001
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53255



















What class are you referring to here? I'm not actually planning on competing in any events. I actually live in Oregon, and locally,I have access to zero salt flats, dry lakes, etc.... The planned place for operating this is going to be on the beach :) So, no rules, no limitations based on some competition regulations, etc.

So since im going to be on sand, loose, packed, whatever, im going to need more power out of the sail. Its also the reason I have chosen wider back tires, and the largish front tire.

So, I wonder something. What would happen if I recut my windsurfing scale, giving it the correct shape, but leaving it as large as possible?


What would be the approximate shape, if anyone could draw it. I understand that such a large sail isnt really needed for these smaller karts, but im intending to build a largish cart here :)

Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
26 Jul 2010 6:25pm
The classes that would be most common in the USA would be ....
http://www.spinn.net/~blake/A5A/rules.html
www.nalsa.org/Minirules.htm
www.nalsa.org/
There also is a "new" mini yacht dimension being discussed in Europe, the 5.6m rule where a yacht must fit into a rope loop of 5.6m on the ground, as i said only in discussion at the moment.
I know you may not be in a situation to race or participate in class events but a yacht built to a class spec will be easier to sell at a later date.

The sail cutting I will let someone else to comment.
How far is the Alvord Desert from you?
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
26 Jul 2010 5:06pm
Thanks gizmo! The links are some good reading.

However, theres nothing in my area, or any real interest on my part as of yet, to race this in competition. For now, I would like to build this, and make it big, fast, fun, cheap to build as im on a college budget, and well designed.
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
26 Jul 2010 6:49pm
Here is a pic of a yacht that uses a sail of about 70sqft .. just a little bigger than your water yacht rig.




Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
26 Jul 2010 5:51pm
Lol thats awesome. It even has a headlight!
aus230
aus230
WA
1660 posts
WA, 1660 posts
26 Jul 2010 5:59pm
Wow some ideas floating around here. Another yacht that you could consider is the ice/wind flyer. it can take just about any size wind surfer sail, (I used up to 10.5m on mine. I loved the yacht but it did not fit into comp sailing.) You can access all the plans and info from links below

web.archive.org/web/20041213180203/iceflyer.com/plans/download.html


groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/iceflyer/conversations/topics/6

cheers
aus230



landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
26 Jul 2010 6:17pm
having seen the piccies of the titanium tubing, you have about 3 good masts there! im sure you would slot together something fantastic from them. They look to be telescoping sizes. you wouldnt need to do any welding
keep in mind that my 3 seater only has a 8m windsurfer sail, so 11m is huge. if you are sailing on an oregon beach, presumably you will want something that is capable of dodging logs
i know your just busting to build a monster first off, but I read what your saying, and I keep thinking that its all just ideal for a LLM as the first project.
The class 5 OTT yacht photo you showed us is really like saying," Ive seen a formula 1 race car, so i'll just build one and drive it".
But yes the boys and I will help as much as possible
that wheelbarrow wheel you showed is ideal for all your wheels on a yacht up to say 6m sailarea. you will need to put a fixed spacer inside the bearing housing to keep the bearings in place.
I suspect the solar car wheels will become a lot of work to make them fit the bill
Clemco
Clemco
430 posts
430 posts
27 Jul 2010 5:55am
I must disagree here. The OTT class 5 design is no more work or expensive to build than an LL Mini.
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
27 Jul 2010 8:32am
Clemco said...

I must disagree here. The OTT class 5 design is no more work or expensive to build than an LL Mini.


I would have to agree. The only thing that is really more complex is the fact that you must 'suspend' the seat from the frame, as opposed to sitting atop the frame for the mini. Other then that, I would say their complexity is about equivalent.

Hey clemco, or anyone else, do you have any photos of the steering setup?
Clemco
Clemco
430 posts
430 posts
27 Jul 2010 9:00am
It's all very simple. Just modify an old set of BMX forks.


Piviot angle no less than 30 degrees and line up with center of contact point of tyre to ground
Niykon
Niykon
14 posts
14 posts
27 Jul 2010 12:43pm
Hmm.... not quite understanding what you mean here. Do you mean that the steering knuckle needs to point at the contact patch the wheel makes with the ground? And whats this 30 degree measuring?
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