How about an explanation on the differences between the LLF and some of the other manufactures. Blokart, Manta, Sirocco for examples.

Just a different or BETTER mousetrap?

Enlighten this misplaced Yank sailor.
Near 24° 10.818'N 110° 26.364'W

I know I will be using stays on my winged mini, using a wood axle to take up the flex.
early days yet, very much and experiment

Mike,
What makes the LLF a better Mouse Trap (As you put it) is that it is the essence of simplicity in its construction, which makes it an easy project for home builders that want that little extra enjoyment from the sport.. If not in your Country at least in this one the m Shop Built units are Over Priced and out of the reach of most Punters. The LLF can be built from quality Recycled Bits and Pieces. Sails are easily reconstructed etc. You tell me! What greater self satisfaction can one get out of saying "That is my EFFORT, I built that. Do you not think that your fellow Northern builders, desertyank and Sabydent should be rightfully proud of their efforts??

Just try sourcing and assembling materials, asking advice from fellow Home Builders etc you may be surprised how enjoyable a build can be.. Hey there are those that lack the ability or Will to go to these lengths and go Shell out exorbitant amounts on a Shop built machine only to find out they have purchased from a Fly By Night Pie of Rubbish.
Tap Into the Forum Search, ZOOTER

Hopefully I have given you some Food for Thought..
Ron

PS; Also check out CHOOK in the forum, it will be an eye opener.

the answer is ....different.... for so many reasons. Whether it is different good/bad depends on point of view.

Ah! Stuff it Ron. Leave it go.
Ron

Arjay said...

the answer is ....different.... for so many reasons. Whether it is different good/bad depends on point of view.

ditto that. all these different yachts are suprisingly close in performance, but yacht performance would change with location.
I dont think I would like to try crossing the Gobi in Spirit of Stupidity or even the slightly more comfy Spirit of Christmas

Mike,
Just keep in mind I give everyone a hard time[}:)], Tis just part of my Charm I can take it in return.. We are a thick skinned lot us Ausies. Sort of like the Skin on an Old-man Kangaroo, if you've ever skinned one of them out you will know what I'm talking about.
I am not saying you have to use recycled materials, what I am saying that is how we go about it here. Helps keep the build prices down.. Hay if you want you can build from CNC Titanium. I first built Schrodinger's Cat out of Carbon Fiber mast material and it worked well for a short while until the Mast Step was torn out. That again is what Home Building is about---------------Experimentation.

Oh! And you can't blame me if you want to live in a remote part of the World[}:)] Go Steal some Road Side Signs but not Stop Signs or Give Way signs..
Ron

[bIf there is play between the mast and pipe, does space get wood shims or does the mast get glass wrapped to a snug fit?
I use a split piece of thin walled plastic waste water pipe as a liner, the split down the length of the plastic pipe also locates either side of the welded seam (I forgot to remove the protruding weld) which runs down the inside of the mast step tube.
The split plastic pipe also protects the mast from the protruding seam weld

How often does the mast step pipe get bent enough to need a refit? ( I can visualize a piece of flat bar 1 x 1/8 ( 25mmx 3) from chain link location to main frame with a couple of holes for downhaul attachment .
already being done by several seabreezers and works well

Small 'T' stock down the sides of step to mainframe for side loading.) May just be over engineering for the loads.
similar is now being done with a strap going down the side of the mast tube, around the chassis tube and back up the other side, welded in place.
some of the earlier lake lefroy mini landyachts managed to tear out the mast step after being really hammered over a period of time, this seems to have solved that problem.


Paul, (landyacht?), the plans are great. Thank you. Comments are just observations of inquisitive minded ole sailor and RC hobbyist.

Near 24° 10.818'N 110° 26.364'W

sn: "Small 'T' stock down the sides of step to mainframe for side loading.) May just be over engineering for the loads.
similar is now being done with a strap going down the side of the mast tube, around the chassis tube and back up the other side, welded in place."

If you or anyone has a link to above modification how about a link of posting.

Nikrum: What makes you think there are road signs? The government issues driver licenses if you can print your name and hand over pesos. It is good to know you have such extravagant things down under!

If you or anyone has a link to above modification how about a link of posting.

I used 2 1/2 inch muffler pipe for my main frame tube and mast step. Split PVC pipe as a mast protector
Here is a link to a photo of how I braced my mast tube. That pink stuff is body filler and is not needed.

the photo in this link ^^^^^ shows both the "flat bar mast tube brace" with its holes, and the reinforcing strap really well!

Why don't you fully weld it?

on mine, (and the others that i am currently building) the spine/chassis pipe is smaller than the mast step. So i simply used a hole saw to drill two offset holes and fully welded around.

Nikrum said...

If you know what you're doing with a welder you shouldn't weaken it

counts me out then- best part of my welds is the paint

The heat involved in welding creates a 'brittle' area immediately adjacent to the the weld, the weld itself being stronger (generally) than the parent metals. So if you do a complete weld you also create a complete weakened area round the tube.

Cheers Col

Thanks for the replies fellas;
You have covered the questions nicely.

As for the corrosion trap, if you have a look at the bottom right hand weld in the last photo of my post you will see a slight bleed through, on the covering of cold galv paint.
When I have welded the straps to my last 3 yachts, while they are still pretty warm I slopped linseed oil into the gaps with a paint brush.
When it cools it sets like a varnish. Wipe the excess off with thinners and it can be painted over after a few days.
An old mate, who had spent most of his life on sheep stations, taught me this trick, soon after I left school. We were erecting timber sheep yards on our farm and he'd kick my bum, if I didn't dip the bolts in linseed oil before fitting them. He was right though as the black steel bolts through the "wandoo" hard wood, would still undo 30 years later to replace a broken plank.
I used to do this to the suction floats and pump bolts on the windmills and when the bolts were rusted away and you could still undo the nuts, due to the linseed sealing out the weather.

As for Paul's "Lake Lefroy Mini".
It is a very well thought out design and the most fun I've had, for a small investment, in a long, long time. 10/10 from me, mate.
If you build one of these, you will not be disappointed and it won't be your last either.

hear hear

It's always very difficult for me to not change designs. However i was given some solid advise when i started, for the first one at least stick to the plan, do what you want after that when you are working from at least some experience!