Ozone edge vs ozone c4's

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eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
9 Feb 2013 10:25am
Now let me make it clear I'm no looping expert hey. Just whack it in here and there to add to the dogstyler motor cross style riding. If I was I'd be on C kites! I'm to old and lame to really push the looping envelope...well maybe to lame, shouldn't blame age hey.

I'm borrowing from Toby really, just recently of kiteforum to, he explained well what to do. Been doing it for years but never really thought about it as much and paid a few painful prices for it to.

Now lets say you are going out to sea in WA on a south wester, left foot forward. You send the kite from say 10 to 1. Lets say you redirect to early and the kite is back over to 11, loop the kite back to the right (downloop, back hand pull). Or if you haven't brought it back cause you are hanging upside down with your tongue hanging out enjoying the view, forward loop it back across the 12( forward, left hand pull). If you do this with enough height you will get a helicopter loop, lower down it becomes a common place down or forward loop. Do it before you reach the summit and it becomes an actual loop...the type I choose not to employ as I'm lame.

Thing is with the edge, doesn't matter which side your kite is on and how far it, redirect hard at the end and you will be that horizontal paraglider landing anyhow. Only when you go real huge and find yourself all out of sorts due to stupid body rotations and board grabs that I need to even consider this. The edge is so forgiving on the landings. I just loop cause why not. I mainly just loop down the line on the waves really to get to certain sections with speed. Or if I'm doing a transition and want to go the other way...

Back roll back loop, get your body slightly rotating when kite reaches 12, before you pull the trigger I find. Remember it is high aspect, it won't pivot loop like a C kite. Their will be some arc in its trajectory.

Practice first with little height, even through your forward hand in the water as a kind of break. But commit, get your back hand at the end of the bar and crank...also do it in one motion...meaning from low down, bring to 12 as you rotate then apply the loop...the edge wants kite speed ( as all kites do) but the edge will loop closer to a pivot the more speed it has. If you stall it and then try and loop and the arc will be greater the power will be greater the consequences could be greater.

Anyhow that's my take on it, someone might have something better and more accurate to add. As I said I'm no expert in this style or any really for riding and only been on the edges for a short time.

But how bloody good are they!!!!

cauncy
cauncy
WA
8407 posts
WA, 8407 posts
9 Feb 2013 11:55am
hey rob the minus settings are the lighter pressure, fast turning settings, i have my edges set on this with the middle knot setting under the floats, it gives a much more responsive and connected feel, ozones come with the float setting on the bar set at the 1st knot, ive found changing it to the middle regardless of line stretch on all models of ozones gives it much better feel imo, the old catalyst is transformed on this setting and the rio becomes a much more punchy kite, so where are you in the world at the moment mate
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
9 Feb 2013 1:01pm
Oh sorry rob forget the bar pressure setting. And cauncy is right on with the settings, exactly as I have them. Should have asked cauncy instead of trying every setting! Although I'm yet to put the 9m on the fast setting just too eager to get out when its blowing more than 22 knots!! That's when the 9m comes alive!!!

For me at 75 pies anyhow. Cauncy probably doesn't even bring his 9m down unless the charts say 25 plus but he's a Farqin animal. Keeping it real, good to see some are still left!
Rob S
Rob S
VIC
391 posts
VIC, 391 posts
9 Feb 2013 5:35pm
Thanks Mick & Eppo. I should have asked about this long ago. Pretty dumb of me, I thought adjustment for less bar pressure would come with slower looping. Or should I say I didn't really think.

Now I hope to get three big gains with this simple adjustment.

1. I'm trying to ride more one handed to improve my hand drag back roll kite loops, grabs and tantrums. (hooked in). I think that reduced bar pressure will allow me to control kite power and direction more easily when riding with one hand on the bar.

2. I've had kiters elbow in varying degrees over the last 2 years. Occasionally quite sore but mostly just annoying. I changed a few things which have reduced the problem. I'm thinking that reducing bar pressure will also help.

3. Faster turning / loops. Nice!

And Eppo has explained why I occasionally end up getting hauled off my feet as the kite loops through a big unplanned low arc.

One last question:

My 2013 Edges both came standard set up with the Plus / Minus bar pressure attachment on the middle tag. I've now moved it to the minus end as you said.

The steering lines under the floats comes standard connected to the middle knot for 2013 Edges. So I will shorten the steering line by one knot and this will hopefully produce the same improvement you have seen. Correct?
cauncy
cauncy
WA
8407 posts
WA, 8407 posts
9 Feb 2013 3:00pm
hey rob maybe try it in 2 stages as your already set on the middle knot as tightening up the back lines will open the kite to more wind giving you extra grunt when you sheet in, i generally sit the kite at 12 sheeted out then look how much slack are in the back lines, major drooping back lines give a delayed response, they shouldnt be tight either its a personal preference, for the backroll handplant transition check out tamatoa gillot tahiti on the edges on you tube ,gotta go the wind meter has just kicked off( loose cowl on my chimney)
onemorehuey
onemorehuey
NSW
158 posts
NSW, 158 posts
9 Feb 2013 9:38pm
airjunkie said...
dusta said...
i wasn't asking for an invite to this secret crossing , was just curious as to where and how far this crossing is .


i wasn't trying to be secretive i was just trying to be considerate to the organizer who is just one person. . . but after seeing the other thread relating to this event posted by the guys from P.N.G. (with regard to the donated gear) i did a forum search on here and it turns out the event was advertised on this forum by a site sponsor last year so i guess it's ok to post it

the crossing or island hopping is approx 200km from north Queensland to Papua New Guinea it is the middle leg of a triathlon of sorts preceded by a 700km bike ride to the coast and followed up by completing the Kokoda Track


but so as the thread doesn't get to far off topic
for the Ozone edge riders out there is there much difference between the 2011, 2012 and the 2013 models ?

. . . . as there are some deals to be had on some brand new (old stock) edges from various kite shops




Now that's one class tri!
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
9 Feb 2013 8:29pm
Christ I didn't even read that before. Sounds like a crazy ass tri to me. You are a nutter man and respect earner. Good luck.just finished watching the Kokoda trail the classic Aussie flick only today...serendipity or what. One farqen up situation and one farqen up track!
NSW, 4382 posts
10 Feb 2013 8:52am
cauncy said...
hey rob maybe try it in 2 stages as your already set on the middle knot as tightening up the back lines will open the kite to more wind giving you extra grunt when you sheet in, i generally sit the kite at 12 sheeted out then look how much slack are in the back lines, major drooping back lines give a delayed response, they shouldnt be tight either its a personal preference, for the backroll handplant transition check out tamatoa gillot tahiti on the edges on you tube ,gotta go the wind meter has just kicked off( loose cowl on my chimney)


Hi Cauncy
The way you describe tuning your kite is a bit asswackbards. The best is way to check by flying the kite for sure. Pull the bar all the way towards you, with the kite at the edge of the window (I tend to avoid doing this with the kite straight above), usually about 10-11 o'clock. If the kite stalls or has any tendency to fly backwards the rears are too tight, so you would move out a knot on the rear line leader adustments. If the kite does not even feel like its close to stall, then
tighten the rear lines a knot and re-test.
Over time and with heavier riders the front lines stretch a little or a lot (not so much on Ozone 500kg centre lines), so this is a common issue I see at the beach - backwards flying kites when people are jumping and launching, etc.

dafunk
dafunk
QLD
561 posts
QLD, 561 posts
10 Feb 2013 10:07am
I know the edge is not designed to unhook .
we get light onshore winds sometimes .
i think a big edge would be good to get up wind off the beach ,

but how do they go unhooked? can it do it ok ?
size 15m ? my 10m c4 gets me going good in 18 ,
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
10 Feb 2013 8:33am
Dafunk what are you calling light winds ? Seen Jason out on his 15m C4 in lightish winds and very light winds on the 15m C4 on a skim unhooking and all. any kite can be unhooked I suppose but the edges designers I don't think had unhook in mind when making the edge and had unhook centered I their minds for the C4.
dafunk
dafunk
QLD
561 posts
QLD, 561 posts
10 Feb 2013 10:56am
around 15 knots eppo , i just love the reviews of the edge and in light stuff i still dont like the walk lol and think the edge will upwind better ?
cauncy
cauncy
WA
8407 posts
WA, 8407 posts
10 Feb 2013 9:36am
Kitepower Australia said...
cauncy said...
hey rob maybe try it in 2 stages as your already set on the middle knot as tightening up the back lines will open the kite to more wind giving you extra grunt when you sheet in, i generally sit the kite at 12 sheeted out then look how much slack are in the back lines, major drooping back lines give a delayed response, they shouldnt be tight either its a personal preference, for the backroll handplant transition check out tamatoa gillot tahiti on the edges on you tube ,gotta go the wind meter has just kicked off( loose cowl on my chimney)


Hi Cauncy
The way you describe tuning your kite is a bit asswackbards. The best is way to check by flying the kite for sure. Pull the bar all the way towards you, with the kite at the edge of the window (I tend to avoid doing this with the kite straight above), usually about 10-11 o'clock. If the kite stalls or has any tendency to fly backwards the rears are too tight, so you would move out a knot on the rear line leader adustments. If the kite does not even feel like [:)its close to stall, then
tighten the rear lines a knot and re-test.
Over time and with heavier riders the front lines stretch a little or a lot (not so much on Ozone 500kg centre lines), so this is a common issue I see at the beach - backwards flying kites when people are jumping and launching, etc.




I trim my kite in the way you discribe, I don't tune my kite in the way you describe, maybe you need to read my answer a bit more carefully, I told Rob to do it in 2 stages as he's already on the middle setting, so if he moves his bar pressure 1st as describe earlier he,ll be fine if he still has major droop in his back lines then move them, robs not a big bloke so line stretch shouldnt be much of an issue, if he does move his setting underfloat and the kite stalls then he just moves it back, that's why I said 2 stages, is this still assbackwards
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
10 Feb 2013 9:38am
15 knots depending on your weight on a C4 15m and a more efficient board will allow you to be unhooked and throwing down most of what you practise on your 10. The edge at 15m, you'll be mowing the lawn, with some occasional downwind gliding boosts. Unless you want to get into racing?

After 11 I believe the edge loses most if not all its free ride ability.

Now I love the edges, but I would not for my style get anything above an 11m, maybe a 13 at a push.

D
Depends on what you are after...

The 14m cat is a very nice compromise between the edge and the C4 IMO.


Put it this way, the apparent wind build up you experience on the edges becomes far greater in the bigger sizes, as they should cause guys are using them to either cruise fast or race.

And you want to unhook! So add apparent wind and let a big edge sit deeper in the window than it likes. Unless you like landing fast and hard with little vertical pop ability (unless you are an edging machine) a big edge is not the go in my opinion.

But others might disagree.

I did unhook the 11m yesterday just cause, and its fine...kind of, I wouldn't be wanting to try anything beyond a simple S bend. Unhook equals C kite or derivations of. The edge is the furtherest away from a C kite you can get!

I've seen pros unhook on them, but they were on smaller kites and all they day is kite and root each others ego all day, so for us mere mortals I just don't know hey.
dafunk
dafunk
QLD
561 posts
QLD, 561 posts
10 Feb 2013 12:03pm
65kg im no edging machine , riding luluz 132 .
like the landings
love the apparent wind build up thing .
have an older light wind kite all good but is too hard to go upwind sits deep .
great to hear they can unhook !
ta for the advice eppo
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
10 Feb 2013 12:04pm
I suppose you can but that's not their design criteria?

Tell ya if you want to be out in 15 knots then go no larger than a 13m edge at 65kg. I'm holding ground on an 11 at 75kg!

Or to be quite honest if you want to compliment your C4 and unhooking etc I'd be seriously looking at a 12 or 14m cat. This way their is unhooking built into its design, it turns much faster and still builds apparent wind much more than the C4, but not as good as the edge. Somewhere in between or if anything more on the edge side of the continuum.

Also if you want to get serious about light wind riding per say, get another board that is more efficient. Tell ya I'm out on the 11m in 10 to 12 knots going upwind on a skim board. Not saying getting a skim but get a bigger board.

Honestly subscribe to having two boards on the beach rather Than two kites.

Yesterday for instance started out real light, was on the 11m and a skim just playing about. Wind picked up so for two hours was on my mako king. Wind kicked up again spent the last hour or so on my 140. Didn't change kite, just the board. Very very useful in winter where I can be changing between two boards three or four times sometimes.

Expands the sweet spot of your kite at a fraction of the cost.

65kg, you lucky bastard!
NSW, 4382 posts
10 Feb 2013 9:14pm
cauncy said...
Kitepower Australia said...
cauncy said...
hey rob maybe try it in 2 stages as your already set on the middle knot as tightening up the back lines will open the kite to more wind giving you extra grunt when you sheet in, i generally sit the kite at 12 sheeted out then look how much slack are in the back lines, major drooping back lines give a delayed response, they shouldnt be tight either its a personal preference, for the backroll handplant transition check out tamatoa gillot tahiti on the edges on you tube ,gotta go the wind meter has just kicked off( loose cowl on my chimney)


Hi Cauncy
The way you describe tuning your kite is a bit asswackbards. The best is way to check by flying the kite for sure. Pull the bar all the way towards you, with the kite at the edge of the window (I tend to avoid doing this with the kite straight above), usually about 10-11 o'clock. If the kite stalls or has any tendency to fly backwards the rears are too tight, so you would move out a knot on the rear line leader adustments. If the kite does not even feel like [:)its close to stall, then
tighten the rear lines a knot and re-test.
Over time and with heavier riders the front lines stretch a little or a lot (not so much on Ozone 500kg centre lines), so this is a common issue I see at the beach - backwards flying kites when people are jumping and launching, etc.




I trim my kite in the way you discribe, I don't tune my kite in the way you describe, maybe you need to read my answer a bit more carefully, I told Rob to do it in 2 stages as he's already on the middle setting, so if he moves his bar pressure 1st as describe earlier he,ll be fine if he still has major droop in his back lines then move them, robs not a big bloke so line stretch shouldnt be much of an issue, if he does move his setting underfloat and the kite stalls then he just moves it back, that's why I said 2 stages, is this still assbackwards



Definitely no offence intended!!! Just trying to help with a clearer and better way to tune a kite. Line droop is not the way to do it, watching your kite when you sheet all the way in till you see it slow to almost a stall is the best way, and all kites lines will be tight at this point, but how tight is the point?
Can't tell from a sheeted out line droop method IMO, thats all. Sure do it in 2 stages, change one thing at a time, thats great advice.
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
10 Feb 2013 8:27pm
Both of you are right I find on the edges. The line droop as you call it is very subtle on the edge. There is hardly any at all. This is one thing that suprised me at first. But sheeting is the final stage. I find though these edges can maintain a fair bit of back stall when sheeting in as they still fly forward all the time. on the setting described the old ozone come out of the chicken loop thingy happened fully powered going down a wave two days ago. Was back stalling like anything and yet I still had time to hook back in before it hit the water. I fly the edges with a fair bit of stall allows a comfortable distance when feeling the trim and depower through the kite.
benchy
benchy
QLD
60 posts
QLD, 60 posts
10 Feb 2013 11:34pm
Ha nice one Eppo, the old "both of you are right" should calm things down
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
11 Feb 2013 7:40am
I see merit in both although ultimately Steve is right. Then again cauncy did mention a two stage process so think we are all on the same page really.
rusty7
rusty7
QLD
504 posts
QLD, 504 posts
11 Feb 2013 9:56am
I just saw this thread...
to answer an earlier question
2013 is the best edge yet .... ive had every year since they first came to Australian shores. I would say the 2013 is about 20% BETTER ON EVERY FRONT COMPARED TO THE 2012 ... oops caps lock got stuck.... the 2012 was 30% better than the 2011 and the 2010 was not so good.
The edge has alot more power than the C4 size for size and a lot wider wind range and is probibly more purpose built for your crossing.
and finally they all loop awesome right up to the 17m .... just takes Kahonis and faith....lol
and Qlines is the way to go for us real sized riders .... set em and forget em.....


eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
11 Feb 2013 9:10am
Where ya been rusty!??

Been some good edge talk going on...

What are qlines rusty?

Good to know I got the best one yet...2013 is indeed remarkably smooth and refined but the only one Ive used.
Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
11 Feb 2013 11:33am
dammit now i need to get a 2013 edge thats going to be at least 50% better than my "not so good" 2010 13m edge!

I should stop reading these damn reviews because I constantly want to upgrade my kites.

Shut up you evil baastaards! Tell me the kites are all crap and my old kites are better than the new ones.

All capex approvals have been cancelled for 2013!!!!
HeavyInt
HeavyInt
NSW
36 posts
NSW, 36 posts
11 Feb 2013 2:40pm
Yeah - what are q-lines? Being a 'real sized' rider, I am curious.
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
11 Feb 2013 11:44am
Plummet said...
dammit now i need to get a 2013 edge thats going to be at least 50% better than my "not so good" 2010 13m edge!

I should stop reading these damn reviews because I constantly want to upgrade my kites.

Shut up you evil baastaards! Tell me the kites are all crap and my old kites are better than the new ones.

All capex approvals have been cancelled for 2013!!!!





Hopefully you can try a 2013 for real soon and make your own mind up Plummett!

Gotta be careful with crew maintaining how better something has got...I know cauncy hasnt seen a great deal of diff between the 2012 and the 2013. (and he's had them since they first came out to)..but a couple of crew I know have said there is a noticeable diff...who know really.

But the only common thread among all this is yes a dramatic change from 2010 and above...sorry man
dusta
dusta
WA
2940 posts
WA, 2940 posts
11 Feb 2013 11:57am
So i took a 13m edge out for a demo yesterday on the river courtesy of westoz .

holy f$ck is all i will say .

Such an awesome kite i'll be replcing my quiver . Now to decide on 8m cat,11 and 15 edge

or 8cat 10m edge and 13edge .
cauncy
cauncy
WA
8407 posts
WA, 8407 posts
11 Feb 2013 12:54pm
The is some difference between the 2012 and the 2013, but if you put the aramid bridles on your 2012 you'll be very close to 2013 specs, not only my oppinion but also from one of the main men from ozone, the bridles will cost around $150 ,
rusty7
rusty7
QLD
504 posts
QLD, 504 posts
11 Feb 2013 3:14pm
Hi Eppo
Rotata cuff slowed me down a bit mate.....
Q LInes are (and i copied the hype below) but bacically lines with zero stretch ....
i have been using them for the last 4 years and would never go back to standard lines...

Hype follows... from the kite power web site:....
New Q-PowerLine Pro represents the latest advancement in KiteSurfing line technology from Active People Sports. The latest generation of Q-PowerLine, Pro utilizes a new thinner, stronger Spectra fiber to further improve on the time-proven, superior features of Q-PowerLine.

Pro is now 30% thinner than standard Q-PowerLine for even lower drag, more resistant to stretch with stronger impact strength, a smoother “hand” makes it much more “kink” resistant, and it features a new surface treatment for a slipperier finish allowing more wraps without binding.

The new Pro version still features; 10 times the resistance to tangles, a tight Spectra overbraid to keep out damaging sand particles, a linear core for the lowest stretch possible, much longer life than braided lines, no requirement for sleeving, a round cross-section for lower drag than “thinner” flat braided lines, high-visibility safety coating, and 100% pure spectra construction for floatation.
rusty7
rusty7
QLD
504 posts
QLD, 504 posts
11 Feb 2013 3:15pm
rusty7 said...
Hi Eppo
Rotata cuff slowed me down a bit mate.....
Q LInes are (and i copied the hype below) but bacically lines with zero stretch ....
i have been using them for the last 4 years and would never go back to standard lines...

Hype follows... from the kite power web site:....
New Q-PowerLine Pro represents the latest advancement in KiteSurfing line technology from Active People Sports. The latest generation of Q-PowerLine, Pro utilizes a new thinner, stronger Spectra fiber to further improve on the time-proven, superior features of Q-PowerLine.

Pro is now 30% thinner than standard Q-PowerLine for even lower drag, more resistant to stretch with stronger impact strength, a smoother “hand” makes it much more “kink” resistant, and it features a new surface treatment for a slipperier finish allowing more wraps without binding.

The new Pro version still features; 10 times the resistance to tangles, a tight Spectra overbraid to keep out damaging sand particles, a linear core for the lowest stretch possible, much longer life than braided lines, no requirement for sleeving, a round cross-section for lower drag than “thinner” flat braided lines, high-visibility safety coating, and 100% pure spectra construction for floatation.


And Dusta unless you weigh over 90 you better off with the 13m than the 15m
Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
11 Feb 2013 1:58pm
dusta said...
So i took a 13m edge out for a demo yesterday on the river courtesy of westoz .

holy f$ck is all i will say .

Such an awesome kite i'll be replcing my quiver . Now to decide on 8m cat,11 and 15 edge

or 8cat 10m edge and 13edge .


8m cat, 10m and 15m edge!
eppo
eppo
WA
9792 posts
WA, 9792 posts
11 Feb 2013 2:42pm
rusty7 said...
Hi Eppo
Rotata cuff slowed me down a bit mate.....
Q LInes are (and i copied the hype below) but bacically lines with zero stretch ....
i have been using them for the last 4 years and would never go back to standard lines...

Hype follows... from the kite power web site:....
New Q-PowerLine Pro represents the latest advancement in KiteSurfing line technology from Active People Sports. The latest generation of Q-PowerLine, Pro utilizes a new thinner, stronger Spectra fiber to further improve on the time-proven, superior features of Q-PowerLine.

Pro is now 30% thinner than standard Q-PowerLine for even lower drag, more resistant to stretch with stronger impact strength, a smoother “hand” makes it much more “kink” resistant, and it features a new surface treatment for a slipperier finish allowing more wraps without binding.

The new Pro version still features; 10 times the resistance to tangles, a tight Spectra overbraid to keep out damaging sand particles, a linear core for the lowest stretch possible, much longer life than braided lines, no requirement for sleeving, a round cross-section for lower drag than “thinner” flat braided lines, high-visibility safety coating, and 100% pure spectra construction for floatation.




Now Rusty...I'm not a big guy @ 75kg, but Id say these lines would not be wasted on a sublime kite like the edge even at my weight. What emperical difference do you notice apart from lack of stretch. The amount of looping I do is tarting to worry me on the stretch factor, even at my weight - or shouldnt I worry?

That is does the hype above match the reality? I'd say the turning and depower would have to be more crsiper...and I would also say the edge is a kite you would actually notice the difference. Am I wrong? Can you elaborate?

Also where do you get them, do they come in ready made sizes or is this your job to make up?

Sorry to here about rotator cuff man sucks c*ck! I have a dislocated AC joint that has fused real weird like and is giving my grief, lucky the bar pressure is so controllable.
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